Designed with intricate detailing and a touch of whimsy, the Yuko Doll captures the hearts of both beginners and seasoned artisans. With its free pattern readily available online, enthusiasts can embark on a delightful journey of creation, weaving together yarn and imagination to bring this endearing character to life.

Amigurumi Abbreviations

MR: magic ring Rnd: round

Ch: chain stitch

slst: slip stitch st: stitch

sc: single crochet stitch

hdc: half double crochet stitch

dc: double crochet stitch

inc-dc: double crochet increase

dec: decrease: 2 single crochet stitches together

inc: increase: 2 single crochet stitches in a same stitch. FLO: crochet through front loops only

BLO: crochet through back loops only

Some tips

I make invisible decreases-work in FLO

I use (X-shaped single crochet) stitch technique for the body,arms, legs, head, wig

use (V-shaped single crochet) stitch technique for the dress

Materials

1. Hook size 2mm

2. fiberfill

3. scissors

4. sewing pins

5. needle for sewing pieces

6. black or brown thread for embroidery

7. Pink blush

8. yarn (i used YarnArt Jeans)

9. Pink blush makeup powder

Head

Begin crocheting with skin color yarn

1 rnd: 6 sc in MR

2 rnd: 6 inc (12)

3 rnd: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)

4 rnd: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)

5 rnd: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)

6 rnd: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)

7 rnd: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)

8 rnd: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)

9 rnd: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)

10 rnd: (8sc, inc) x6 (60)

11 rnd-23 rnd: 60sc (13 rounds)

24 rnd: (8sc, dec) x6 (54)

25 rnd: (7sc, dec) x6 (48)

26 rnd: (6sc, dec) x6 (42)

27 rnd: (5sc, dec) x6 (36)

28 rnd: (4sc, dec) x6 (30)

29 rnd: (3sc, dec) x6 (24)

30 rnd: (2sc, dec) x6 (18)

Sl st, finish crocheting, cut the yarn and hide the thread.

Stuff the head, sew the eyes between

18 rnd and 19 rnd, the space between 1 st diagonal eyes is 7 stitches. (The length of each eyes is 5 stitches)

Sew the brows between 14 rnd and 15 rnd, the space between brows is 9 stitches. (The length of each brows is 4 stitches)

.2 st length, 1st upwards 9 st between 4 st length, 1 st down

.3 st upwardsm 4 st upwards 7 st between 5 st length 1st diagonal

Wig

Begin crocheting with brown color yarn

1 rnd: 6 sc in MR

2 rnd: 6 inc (12)

3 rnd: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)

4 rnd: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)

5 rnd: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)

6 rnd: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)

7 rnd: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)

8 rnd: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)

9 rnd: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)

10 rnd: (8sc, inc) x6 (60)

11 rnd: (9sc, inc) x6 (66)

12 rnd-19 rnd: 66 sc (8 rounds)

Sl st, leave a long tail for sewing, don’t stuff

Bun (2 details)

1 rnd: 6 sc in MR

2 rnd: 6 inc (12)

3 rnd: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18) 4 rnd: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)

5 rnd: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)

6 rnd: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)

7 rnd-10 rnd: 36 sc (4 rounds)

11 rnd: (4sc, dec) x6 (30)

12 rnd: (3sc, dec) x6 (24)

SI st, stuff the bun, leave a long tail for sewing.

Make two buns, sew them to the head, 7 rows distance from the magic ring (pic 8)

Arm (2 details)

1 rnd: 6 sc in MR

2 rnd: 6 inc (12)

3 rnd-4rnd: 12sc (2rounds)

5 rnd: (3 sc, inc) x3 (15)

6 rnd: 15 sc (15)

7 rnd: (3 sc, dec) x3 (12)

8 rnd: (2 sc, dec) x3 (9)

9 rnd-31 rnd: 9sc (23 rounds) 3 sc, fold and crochet 4 sc together leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs (2 details)

Begin with white yarn

1 rnd: ch 6, start to crochet on the second chain from the hook: 1 inc, 3 sc, 4 sc in the same stitch. On other side: 3 sc, 1 inc (14)

2 rnd: 2 inc, 3 sc, 4 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (22)

3 rnd: (1 sc, 1 inc) x2, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x4, 3 Sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x2 (30)

4 rnd: BLO: 30 sc (30)

5 rnd: 30 sc (30)

Change to pink color yarn, cut the white yarn.

6 rnd: 30 sc (30)

7 rnd- 8 rnd: 30 sc (2 rounds)

9 rnd: BLO: 30 sc (30)

10 rnd: 8 sc, 7dec, 8 sc (23)

11 rnd: 8 sc, 4 dec, 7 sc (19)

12 rnd: 8 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc (17)

13 rnd: 17 sc (17)

Stuff it now

Change to skin color yarn. Don’t cut the pink yarn, bring it to the outside.

14 rnd: 17 sc (17)

15 rnd-48 rnd: 17 sc (34 rounds)

Stuff the leg

1 sc, fold the leg and crochet together: 8sc.

Cut the yarn. Go back to the pink color yarn that we left before, and crochet: 17 sl st. Cut the yarn and hide.

Body

Begin crocheting from the backside of the leg, attach white yarn with 1 ch, 16 sc through the front loops, 4 ch, take another leg and through the front loops: 16 sc, 4 sc through the chain stitches.

1 rnd: 7 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc (42)

 2 rnd: 42 sc (42)

3 rnd: 8 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc (44)

4 rnd-5 rnd: 44 sc (2 rounds)

6 rnd: 9 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc (46)

7 rnd-8 rnd: 46 sc (2 rounds)

9 rnd: 10 sc, change to skin color yarn, and 36 sc to the end of the round (46)

10 rnd-26 rnd: 46 sc (17 rounds)

27 rnd: 11 sc, 2 dec, 19 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (42)

28 rnd: (4 sc, dec) x7 (35)

29 rnd: (3 sc, dec) x7 (28)

30 rnd: 28 sc (28)

31 rnd: (2 sc, dec) x7 (21)

32 rnd: 21 sc (21)

33 rnd: (4 sc, dec) x3, 3 sc (18)

34 rnd-35 rnd: 18 sc (2 rounds)

Sl st, leave a long tail.

Sew the head. Sew the arms to the body between 25 and 26 rounds.

Dress

use (V-shaped single crochet) stitch technique for the dress

Begin with pink color yarn

45 chain

1 row: 44 sc

2 row: 1 ch, 8 sc, 6 ch, skip 8 stitches, 12 sc, 6 ch, skip 8 stitches, 8 sc (40)

Start each row with 1 ch and turn

3 row-13 row: 40 sc (11 rows)

Close in circle with sl st, don’t turn the work, begin each round with 3 ch and finish with sl st.

1 rnd: inc-dc in each stitch to the end of the round

2 rnd: 2 dc, (inc-dc, dc)x to the end of the round

3 rnd-11 rnd: dc in each stitch to the end of the round (9 rounds)

12 rnd: FLO: dc in each stitch to the end of the round

Cut the yarn and hide

Attach white yarn to the back loops of the 11th round: 1 rnd-2 rnd: 3 ch, dc in each stitch to the end of the round, sl st

3 rnd: (2 ch, sc)x to the end of the round

Finish with sl st, cut the yarn and hide.

Dress

Left sleeve

Attach pink color yarn to the second row

1 rnd: 1 ch, 16 sc (16)

2 rnd-10 rnd: 16 sc (9 rounds)

11 rnd: FLO: 16 sc (16)

12 rnd: 16 inc-dc (32)

13 rnd: 32 sc (32)

14 rnd: 8 sc, change to the white color yarn: (2 ch, sc)x around

Right sleeve

Attach the yarn as the same way as we did

before: to the second row

1 rnd: 1 ch, 16 sc (16)

2 rnd-10 rnd: 16 sc (9 rounds)

11 rnd: FLO: 16 sc (16)

12 rnd: 16 inc-dc (32)

13 rnd: 32 sc (32)

14 rnd: change to the white color yarn: (2 ch, sc)x to the end of the round

Dress

For buttons

With pink color yarn

1 sc, 7 ch, 3 sc, 7 ch, 3sc, 7 ch, 2 sc

Sew the buttons

Collar first part

Attach the white yarn to the back left side of dress

1 row: 22 sc

2 row: 3 ch turn, 1 dc, 7 inc-dc, 14 hdc (29)

3 row: 1 ch turn, 29 sc (29)

Collar second part

Attach the white yarn to the front side of dress

1 row: 22 sc

2 row: 2 ch turn, 14 hdc, 7 inc-dc, 1 dc (29)

3 row: 1 ch turn, 29 sc (29)

Use pink blush makeup powder to make the rosy cheek on the doll’s cheeks.

Our Yuko is ready!

The post Yuko Doll Amigurumi Free Pattern – Perfect for Your Crochet Creations appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Necessary materials:

-Yarn himalaya dolphin baby, wolans banny baby or other analogues 100g/120m 3 skeins;

– semi-cotton yarn yarnart jeans 50g/160m for decoration (black) and slightly different shades for knitting flowers;

-hook NoNo4 or 4.5, No2 for knitting flowers;

-holofiber;

-sewing pins for securing parts before sewing;

– marker or contrasting thread to mark the beginning of the row; -scissors.

Amigurumi Abbreviations

MR – amigurumi ring

İnc – increase

Dec – decrease

Sc – single crochet

Ch – air loop

Sl-st – connecting post

(,,,)*6 – repeat the specified number of times

The size of the finished pillow is 38 cm, from beam to beam.

Let’s start knitting the base of the pillow:

1.6MR

2.6 inc (12)

3. (1 Sc, İnc)*6 (18)

4. 1 Sc, İnc, (2 Sc, İnc)*5, 1 Sc (24)

5. (3 Sc, İnc)*6 (30)

6. 2 Sc, İnc, (4 Sc, İnc)*5, 2 Sc (36)

7. (5 Sc, İnc)*6 (42)

8.3 Sc, İnc, (6 Sc, İnc)*5, 3 Sc (48)

9. (7 Sc, İnc)*6 (54)

10. 4 Sc, İnc, (8 Sc, İnc)*5, 4 Sc (60)

11. (9 Sc, İnc)*6 (66)

12. 5 Sc, İnc, (10 Sc, İnc)*5, 5 Sc (72)

13. (11 sc, inc)*6 (78)

14. 6 Sc, İnc, (12 Sc, İnc)*5, 6 Sc (84)

15. (13 Sc, İnc)*6 (90)

16. 7 Sc, İnc, (14 Sc, İnc)*5, 7 Sc (96)

17. (15 Sc, İnc)*6 (102)

18. 8 Sc, İnc, (16 Sc, İnc)*5, 8 Sc (108)

19. (17 Sc, İnc)*6 (114)

20. 9 Sc, İnc, (18 Sc, İnc)*5, 9 Sc (120)

21.(19 Sc, İnc)*6 (126)

22.10 Sc, İnc, (20 Sc, İnc)*5, 10 Sc (132)

23-26. 132 Sc (4 rows)

27. 10 Sc, Dec, (20 Sc, Dec)*5, 10 Sc (126)

28. (19 Sc, Dec)*6 (120)

29. 9 Sc, Dec, (18 Sc, Dec)*5, 9 Sc (114)

30. (17 Sc, Dec)*6 (108)

31. 8 Sc, Dec, (16 Sc, Dec)*5, 8 Sc (102)

32. (15 Sc, y6)*6 (96)

33. 7 Sc, Dec, (14 Sc, Dec)*5, 7 Sc (90)

At this stage, we begin to fill the pillow with filler.

34. (13 Sc, y6)*6 (84)

35. 6 Sc, Dec, (12 Sc, Dec)*5, 6 Sc (78)

36. (11 Sc, Dec)*6 (72)

37. 5 Sc, Dec, (10 Sc, Dec)*5, 5 Sc (66)

38. (9 Sc, Dec)*6 (60)

39. 4 Sc, Dec, (8 Sc, Dec)*5, 4 Sc (54)

40. (7 Sc, Dec)*6 (48)

41. 3 Sc, Dec, (6 Sc, Dec)*5, 3 Sc (42)

42. (5 Sc, Dec)*6 (36)

43. 2 Sc, Dec, (4 Sc, Dec)*5, 2 Sc (30)

44. (3 Sc, Dec)*6 (24)

Add filler. The pillow filling should be medium hard. When stuffing, pay special attention to the middle of the pillow.

45. 1 Sc, Dec, (2 Sc, Dec)*5, 1 Sc (18)

46. (1 Sc, Dec)*6 (12)

At this stage we tighten the hole using a needle with a thick eye

Rays (11-12 pcs):

1.6MR

2.6 Sc (6)

3. (1 Sc, İnc)*3 (9)

4. (2 Sc, İnc)*3 (12)

5. (3 Sc, İnc)*3 (15)

6. (4 Sc, İnc)*3 (18)

7. (5 Sc, İnc)*3 (21)

8. (6 Sc, İnc)*3 (24)

9. (11 Sc, İnc)*2 (26)

10.26Sc

We knit Sl-st, fasten the thread and cut it off.

Fill the rays well with filler.

Next, we sew the rays to the base of our pillow between n23 and 26 rows. Then we embroider the eyes and mouth with black YarnArt Jeans yarn or its equivalent.

Small flower:

We start with a sliding loop. For the first petal we cast on 3 Ch., then we knit three double crochets with a common stitch, 3 Ch, S-st. Using the same principle we knit two more petals

We knit 6-7 flowers.

Bigger flower:

We start with a sliding loop.

For the first petal we cast on 4 Ch., then we knit four double crochet stitches with a common stitch, 4 Ch, S-st. Using the same principle we knit two more petals

We knit 7-8 flowers.

Sew flowers to the base of the pillow

The post Amigurumi Sleeping companion Sun Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Abbreviations: 

CH – chain 

SC – single crochet 

DC – double crochet 

INC – increase (two stitches in one loop) 

DEC – decrease (two stitches together) 

Legs (2 parts) 

Crochet with raspberry-colored yarn. Fill firmly as you go. 

Row 1: Chain 18 CH, starting from the second loop from the hook, crochet 16 SC, 3 SC in the last loop of the chain, 15 SC, INC (36) 

Row 2: INC, 15 SC, 3 INC, 15 SC, 2 INC (42) 

Row 3: SC, INC, 15 SC, (SC, INC) x 3, 15 SC, (SC, INC) x 2 (48) 

Row 4: 2 SC, INC, 15 SC, (2 SC, INC) x 3, 15 SC, (2 SC, INC) x 2 (54) 

Row 5: 19 SC, (SC, INC) x 6, 23 SC (60) 

Row 6: Crochet 60 SC through the back loop of the stitch 

Rows 7 – 9: 60 SC 

Row 10: 19 SC, (SC, DEC) x 6, 23 SC (54) 

Row 11: 54 SC 

Row 12: 17 SC, (SC, DEC) x 6, 19 SC (48) 

Row 13: 48 SC 

Row 14: 17 SC, 6 DEC, 19 SC (42) 

Row 15: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 (36) 

Row 16: (4 SC, DEC) x 6 (30) 

Change yarn to white. 

Row 17: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 (24) 

Row 18: (4 SC, DEC) x 4 (20) 

Rows 19 – 39 (21 rows): Crochet 20 SC 

Finish crocheting. Cut the yarn. Make the second leg. 

Socks 

Crochet loosely, alternating one row with white yarn and one row with raspberry yarn. 

With white yarn, chain 24 CH. 

Rows 1 – 5: 24 SC 

Row 6: (3 SC, INC) x 6 (30) 

Row 7: 30 SC 

Row 8: (4 SC, INC) x 6 (36) 

Row 9: (5 SC, INC) x 6 (42) 

Rows 10 – 11: 42 SC 

Finish crocheting. Cut the yarn and hide the ends. Put the socks on the legs and sew the top edge with regular white yarn to keep the socks in place. Sew the bottom edge with raspberry yarn. 

Torso 

Start by joining the legs. 

Row 40: Attach white yarn where we cut the yarn on any leg and crochet 7 SC along that leg. Chain 7 CH. Take the second leg and attach the other end of the chain. Then crochet 20 SC (around the leg), 7 SC (into the chain of CH), 20 SC (around the leg), 7 SC (into the chain of CH) (54). Place a marker. 

Rows 41 – 42: 54 SC 

Row 43: (8 SC, INC) x 6 (60) 

Rows 44 – 50 (7 rows): 60 SC 

Row 51: (8 SC, DEC) x 6 (54) 

Rows 52 – 53: 54 SC 

Row 54: (7 SC, DEC) x 6 (48) 

Rows 55 – 59 (5 rows): 48 SC 

Row 60: (6 SC, DEC) x 6 (42) 

Rows 61 – 65 (5 rows): 42 SC 

Change yarn to gray. 

Row 66: 42 SC 

Row 67: Crochet 42 SC through the back loop of the stitch 

Rows 68 – 70: 42 SC 

Row 71: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 (36) 

Row 72: (4 SC, DEC) x 6 (30) 

Row 73: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 (24) 

Change yarn to white. 

Row 74: (4 SC, DEC) x 4 (20) 

Rows 75 – 78 (4 rows): 20 SC 

Finish crocheting. Cut the yarn. 

Skirt 

Return to row 67, where we crocheted through the back loop, and attach gray yarn. Now, crochet through the front loops, counter-clockwise. 

Row 1: Chain 3 as a turning chain, DC in each stitch of the row, SC at the end. In the end, you should have 82 DC. 

Row 2: Chain 3, then alternate (SC, INC) to the end of the row, SC at the end. You should have 124 SC. 

Rows 3 – 20 (18 rows): 124 SC. Each row starts with a chain of 3 as a turning chain and ends with SC in the first stitch of the row. 

Finish crocheting. Cut the yarn and hide it. 

Now, create the pattern for the underskirt. 

Sew lace along the edge of the skirt. 

Clothing for the Doll

Arms (2 pieces) 

Crochet with white yarn. 

Row 1: 6 SC in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: (INC) x 6 (12) 

Rows 3 – 6: 12 SC 

Change yarn to gray. 

Rows 7 – 36 (30 rows): 12 SC 

Row 37: (DEC) x 6 (6) 

Bolero 

Crochet with dark gray yarn. 

Row 1: Chain 40, SC in the 11th chain from the hook, chain 3, 4 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 5 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 8 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 5 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 4 DC, turn. 

Row 2: Chain 3, 5 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 7 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 10 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 7 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 5 SC, turn. 

Row 3: Chain 2, 6 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 9 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 12 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 9 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 6 DC, turn. 

Row 4: Chain 1, 7 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 11 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 14 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 11 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 7 SC, turn. 

Row 5: Chain 2, 8 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 13 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 16 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 13 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 8 DC, turn. 

Row 6: Chain 1, 9 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 15 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 18 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 15 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 9 SC, turn. 

Row 7: Chain 2, (DC, INC) x 5, skip 19 SC, (DC, INC) x 10, skip 19 SC, (INC, DC) x 5, turn. 

Row 8: Chain 1, 60 SC 

Row 9: Chain 2, 60 DC 

Row 10: Chain 1, 60 SC 

Bolero Sleeves 

Crochet with gray yarn. 

Row 1: Chain 2, 19 SC (in the round), slip stitch to the first stitch of the round. 

Row 2: Chain 2, 19 SC, slip stitch to the first stitch of the round. 

Rows 3 – 17: Alternate between row 1 and row 2 (i.e., row with SC, row with DC). 

Row 18: Crochet through the front loop of the chain, 19 SC, slip stitch. 

Row 19: Chain 2, 19 DC, slip stitch. 

Sew three buttons onto the bolero. 

Head 

Start with flesh-colored yarn. 

Row 1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

Row 2: (INC) x 6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 SC, INC) x 6 (18) 

Row 4: (2 SC, INC) x 6 (24) 

Row 5: (3 SC, INC) x 6 (30) 

Row 6: (4 SC, INC) x 6 (36) 

Row 7: (5 SC, INC) x 6 (42) 

Row 8: (6 SC, INC) x 6 (48) 

Row 9: (7 SC, INC) x 6 (54) 

Row 10: (8 SC, INC) x 6 (60) 

Row 11: (9 SC, INC) x 6 (66) 

Rows 12-24: 66 SC 

Row 25: (10 SC, INC) x 6 (72) 

Row 26: (11 SC, INC) x 6 (78) 

Rows 27-31: 78 SC 

Row 32: (11 SC, DEC) x 6 (72) 

Row 33: (10 SC, DEC) x 6 (66) 

Row 34: (9 SC, DEC) x 6 (60) 

Row 35: (8 SC, DEC) x 6 (54) 

Row 36: (7 SC, DEC) x 6 (48) 

Row 37: (6 SC, DEC) x 6 (42) 

Row 38: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 (36) 

Row 39: (4 SC, DEC) x 6 (30) 

Row 40: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 (24) 

Row 41: (2 SC, DEC) x 6 (18) 

Attach the eyes between rows 23 and 24 with a 10 SC gap between them. 

Hair 

Row 1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

Row 2: (INC) x 6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 SC, INC) x 6 (18) 

Row 4: (2 SC, INC) x 6 (24) 

Row 5: (3 SC, INC) x 6 (30) 

Row 6: (4 SC, INC) x 6 (36) 

Row 7: (5 SC, INC) x 6 (42) 

Row 8: (6 SC, INC) x 6 (48) 

Row 9: (7 SC, INC) x 6 (54) 

Row 10: (8 SC, INC) x 6 (60) 

Row 11: (9 SC, INC) x 6 (66) 

Rows 12-24: 66 SC 

Row 25: (10 SC, INC) x 6 (72) 

Row 26: (11 SC, INC) x 6 (78) 

Rows 27-31: 78 SC 

Row 32: (11 SC, DEC) x 6 (72) 

Row 33: (10 SC, DEC) x 6 (66) 

Row 34: (9 SC, DEC) x 6 (60) 

Row 35: (8 SC, DEC) x 6 (54) 

Row 36: (7 SC, DEC) x 6 (48) 

Row 37: (6 SC, DEC) x 6 (42) 

Row 38: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 (36) 

Row 39: (4 SC, DEC) x 6 (30) 

Row 40: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 (24) 

Row 41: (2 SC, DEC) x 6 (18) 

Attach hair to the last row. 

Hat 

Chain 80 and join in a circle. 

Row 1: Chain 3, 80 SC, slip stitch into the first chain. 

Rows 2-3: Chain 3, (2 SC; 2 DC in the same stitch, worked from the bottom) repeat to the end of the row. 

Row 4: Chain 3, (9 SC, INC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (88). 

Rows 5-7: Chain 3, 88 SC, slip stitch into the first chain. 

Row 8: Chain 3, (9 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (80). 

Row 9: Chain 3, (8 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (72). 

Row 10: Chain 3, (7 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (64). 

Row 11: Chain 3, (6 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (56). 

Row 12: Chain 3, (5 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (48). 

Row 13: Chain 3, (4 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (40). 

Row 14: Chain 3, (3 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (32). 

Row 15: 16 DEC (16). Finish crocheting. 

Scarf 

Chain 7. Turn the piece. Crochet 6 SC in the 2nd chain from the hook, turn the work. 

2-102. Chain 1. Crochet 6 SC in the back loop only of each of the 6 SC in the previous row, turn the work. Repeat for 101 more rows. 

The post Free Tonton Doll Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

In this pattern, you’ll find detailed instructions and helpful tips to guide you through every step of creating your very own ladybug doll. From crocheting the body and wings to adding the sweetest facial features, each element is carefully explained to ensure your finished creation is as adorable as can be. So, gather your yarn and hooks, and let your creativity take flight as you embark on this delightful crocheting adventure!

Skills needed for crocheting this toy: 

Ability to make single crochet stitches (sc), half double crochet stitches (hdc), and slip stitches (sl st). 

Ability to create an amigurumi magic ring. 

Ability to change colors. 

Patience – this is perhaps the most important skill =) 

Materials you’ll need: 

Crochet hook size 1.3 mm 

Toy stuffing (I use polyester fiberfill) 

Black and white sewing threads for eyes 

Buttons for decoration (I used 8 ladybug buttons on legs and 1 plain button) 

Yarn: 100% mercerized cotton, 200 m/50 g or 392 m/100 g. Brands like Kamtex, Semenovskaya Yarn Lily, Narcissus, or any other with similar yardage and weight will work. You can substitute this yarn with another, as long as the thickness for the body and dress remains the same. 

Yarn colors from Kamtex, 200 m/50 g, that I used: white, apricot for the body (beige), a bit of green for cords, and brown – mine is somewhat reddish-brown, unfortunately, I don’t remember the exact name of this color as the label is lost, but you can also use chocolate or dark chocolate color. 

Optional: Granulate for weighting the toy’s legs on row 6. 

Abbreviations: 

sc – single crochet 

hdc – half double crochet 

sl st – slip stitch 

ch – chain 

inc – increase, work 2 single crochets in one stitch 

dec – decrease, single crochet 2 stitches together 

(1 sc, inc)*6 – repeat what’s in the parentheses 6 times

PATTERN

Head: 

Begin with beige yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring. 

Row 2: inc*6 = 12 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 = 24 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 = 30 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 = 36 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 = 42 

Row 8: (6 sc, inc)*6 = 48 

Row 9: (7 sc, inc)*6 = 54 

Row 10: (8 sc, inc)*6 = 60 

Row 11-16: 60 sc (6 rows) 

Row 17: (8 sc, dec)*6 = 54 

Row 18: (7 sc, dec)*6 = 48 

Row 19: (6 sc, dec)*6 = 42 

Row 20: (5 sc, dec)*6 = 36 

Row 21: (4 sc, dec)*6 = 30 

Row 22: (3 sc, dec)*6 = 24 

Row 23: (2 sc, dec)*6 = 18 

Do not cut the yarn; we’ll continue with the neck.

Neck: 

Rows 24-27: 18 sc (4 rows) 

Stuff the piece firmly. 

Body: 

Row 28: (2 sc, inc)*6 = 24 

Row 29: (3 sc, inc)*6 = 30 

Rows 30-31: 30 sc (2 rows) 

Change to white yarn. 

You can change the color later, after row 38 – I did it to make it look like panties, but in the end, the body color showed through the holes in the dress, which I didn’t like. So, if you change to white now (or the color you’ll use for the dress), it will look neater. 

Rows 32-45: 30 sc (14 rows) 

Stuff the piece tightly; do not cut the yarn. We’ll move on to crocheting the legs. 

Legs: 

Work 15 sc, then join the 16th loop with the 1st using a sc. Each leg has exactly 14 loops. Without cutting the yarn, continue to crochet the left leg. 

Left Leg: 

Continue with white yarn. 

Rows 1-3: 14 sc (3 rows) 

Row 4: 14 sc + 3 sc with the same color 

Change to beige yarn. 

Rows 5-14: 14 sc (10 rows) 

Change to white yarn. 

Rows 15-18: 14 sc (4 rows) 

Stuff the leg firmly. 

Row 19: dec*7 = 7 

Cut the yarn, tighten the loops, thread the yarn through each of the 2 loops, secure, and hide the yarn tail inside the piece. 

Right Leg: 

Attach white yarn at the joining point of the legs and continue crocheting using the same pattern. In the 4th row, crochet 11 sc before changing to beige yarn. 

The color changes should always be at the back of the toy. 

Stuff the leg firmly, finish it, tighten the loops, and hide the yarn tail inside the piece. 

You can put granulate in the legs to weight the toy since the head with curls can be a bit heavy and may tip over. 

Arms: 

Crochet with beige yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring. 

Row 2: (1 sc, inc)*3 = 9 

Rows 3-6: 9 sc (4 rows) 

Row 7: (2 sc, dec)*2, 1 sc = 7 

Rows 8-18: 7 sc (11 rows) 

Fill the piece with stuffing about 1/3 full, fold it in half, crochet 3 sc, cut the yarn, secure, and hide the yarn tail inside the piece. When crocheting the second arm, leave a yarn tail to sew both arms to the body. 

Now, you can sew the arms to the body. 

Dress: 

Crochet with white yarn. 

Chain 27 stitches, starting in the 4th chain from the hook. 

Row 1: 1 sc, (hdc, 4 sc)*4, hdc, 2 sc = 30 

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 sc, hdc, (4 sc, hdc)*5, 2 sc = 36 (including the initial 2 chain stitches) 

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 sc, (1 ch, skip one stitch, 1 sc)*alternating to the end = 36 (including the initial 2 chain stitches). The pattern for this row is the same as for row 8, see below. 

Row 4: Ch 2, in each chain space from row 3 and each sc, crochet 1 sc = 36 (including the initial 2 chain stitches) 

Row 5: Crochet this row into the front loops of the stitches as follows: Ch 3, sl st into the next stitch. Put this “dress” onto the doll and join the beginning and end with a slip stitch. 

Row 6: Now we will divide our work into the back, front, and sleeves of the dress. Crochet 4 rows into the remaining back loops of the stitches: Ch 2, 5 sc, 4 ch, skip 6 stitches, 12 sc, 4 ch, skip 6 stitches, 6 sc, sl st. 

Our dress front is almost done, the arms should be inside the sleeves, the front should be in the front, and the “seam” should be at the back. The pattern for this row and what it should look like is shown in the photo below. 

Row 7: 32 sc 

Row 8: Ch 3, skip 1 stitch, then crochet as follows: (1 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 stitch) to the end of the row, finish with a slip stitch. You’ll have small loops made from 1 ch at the end of this row. The pattern for this row is shown in the photo below. 

Row 9: Make 1 slip stitch into each loop made from 1 ch, here also crochet: 3 ch + 1 hdc + 2 ch + 2 hdc, then crochet 1 hdc into the next loop. Continue alternating to the end of the row: 2 hdc + 2 ch + 2 hdc, then 1 hdc into the next loop. 

In rows 11 and onward, we add 1 hdc between our pattern, in this row we have 3 hdc between the dress pattern, in row 12 – 4 hdc, in row 13 – 5 hdc. Continue this way until you have 9 hdc between the pattern. If you want the dress a bit longer, continue until you have 10 hdc between the pattern. If you want it shorter, finish a few rows earlier. Cut the yarn and secure it. 

If you don’t want the dress to be too puffy, adjust the number of increases. For example, after row 12, do increases every other row. It’s up to your preference. 

Dress Decoration: 

Crochet a chain of 40 stitches with green yarn and thread it through the holes of the third row. Secure it and sew on a button. I used a small red button with two holes. 

Crochet a chain of 25 cm with chain stitches and thread it between the stitches of the lower row of the dress. Secure the thread and cut it. Decorate the dress with buttons. I used ladybug buttons; you can choose any buttons you like. Create folds in the dress and secure them by stitching at the bottom. 

Hair: 

We will crochet with brown yarn. Start with a chain of 22 stitches, leaving a small yarn tail at the beginning of the chain for later attachment. 

Crochet in each stitch starting from the second, crochet 3 sc, then crochet 1 sc in the last 2 stitches. Cut the yarn, leaving a small tail of about 5-6 cm for easy tying. 

You need to make 50 such curls. If you run out, make more. The pattern is shown below. 

Start sewing the hair on the 11th row: thread one end of the yarn through 2 stitches, tie knots, and hide the yarn tails inside the head. 

Here’s what the first row looks like: 

Skip 3 rows and start making the second row. Form all other rows in the same way, making sure the head doesn’t show through the curls. I used 13 curls in the second row. 

Finish the hairstyle, embroider the eyes, and mouth. 

The post Free Ladybug Doll Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Materials I used:

● Yarn, I used YarnArt Jeans (approx. 5-8g of each color)

No. 01 – white, No. 68 – jeans, No. 85 – red, No. 51 – red, No. 07 – nude.

●Eyes 6-7 mm on a safe mount (I glue the eyes with glue)

●Filler, needle, scissors

●Hook No. 1.75-2.0

● dry pastel for tinting

You can use any yarn and hook.

Abbreviations

Mr – amigurumi ring

Sc – single crochet

Dec – decrease

İnc – increase – number of repetitions

Sl-st – connecting post

BLO – back half loop

FLO – front half loop

Ch – air loop

( ) – number of Sc in a row

( ) *n – n is the number of repetitions in brackets

Hands (2 pcs)

Beginning (bodily)

1) 6Sc in MR (6)

2) 6Sc

Color change (red)

3) for BLO 6Sc

4) 6Sc

Color change (white)

5-6) 6Sc

Change color (red)

7) 6Sc

Color change (white)

8–9) 6Sc (2 rows)

Change to red, fold and knit 3Sc.

Cut the thread, do not stuff it with holofiber, fasten it. If you are sewing parts, leave the thread for sewing.

Ears (2 pcs)

bodily

1) 4Sc in MR (4)

2) 4Sc

3) (İnc, 1Sc) *2 (6)

4) (İnc, 2Sc) *2 (8)

5) (İnc, 3Sc) *2 (10)

6) 10Sc

7) (İnc, 4Sc) *2 (12)

Fold in half, knit 6Sc.

Fold in half again and knit 3Sc. Fasten the thread and cut it

Legs (2 pcs)

Beginning (white)

1) 6Sc in MR (6)

2) 6İnc (12)

Color change (red)

3) for BLO 12Sc

Color change (white)

4) 12Sc

5) (1Sc, Dec) *4 (8)

Change color (red)

6) 8Sc

Color change (white)

7–8) 8Sc (2 rows)

Change color (blue)

9) for BLO 8Sc

10–11) 8Sc

On the first leg, knit offset stitches +3-4Sc, fold in half, knit 4Sc.

On the second leg, do not knit an offset loop, fold it in half, knit 4Sc.

Cap

Blue

1) 5 in MR

2) 5Sc

3) İnc, 4Sc (6)

4) (İnc, 2Sc) *2 (8)

5) (İnc, 3Sc) *2 (10)

6) (İnc, 4Sc) *2 (12)

7) (İnc, 5Sc) *2 (14)

8) (İnc, 6Sc) *2 (16)

9) (İnc, 7Sc) *2 (18)

10) (İnc, 8Sc) *2 (20)

11) (İnc, 4Sc) *4 (24)

12) (İnc, 5Sc) *4 (28)

13) (İnc, 6Sc) *4 (32)

14) (İnc, 3Sc) *8 (40)

15) (İnc, 9Sc) *4 (44)

16) (İnc, 10Sc) *4 (48)

17) (İnc, 7Sc) *6 (54)

18) 54Sc

Body-head

Start (blue)

1) 6Sc in MR (6)

2) 6İnc (12)

3) (1Sc, İnc) *6 (18)

4) (2Sc, İnc) *6 (24)

5) 24Sc

6) (4Sc with foot, 8Sc) *2 (24)

7–8) 24Sc (2 rows)

Color change (white)

9) for BLO 24Sc

10) (2Sc, Dec) * 6 (18)

Color change (red)

11) 18Sc

Color change (white)

12) 18Sc

13) (1Sc, Dec) * 6 (12)

Color change (red)

14) 3Sc with hand, 4Sc, 3Sc with hand, 2Sc (12)

Color change (white)

15) 12Sc

Color change (flesh)

16) for FLO 12İnc (24)

17) (3Sc, İnc) *6 (30)

Now there will be increases, these are future cheeks.

18) 6Sc, 3İnc, 7Sc, 3İnc, 11Sc (36)

19–20) 36Sc (2 rows)

18) 6Sc, 3Dec, 7Sc, 3Dec, 11Sc (30)

22–23) 30Sc (2 rows)

24) 3Sc, 3Sc with ear, 14Sc, 3Sc with ear, 7Sc (30)

25–27) 30Sc (3 rows)

Insert eyes between rows 21–22. 6Sc – before the eyes were inserted. 4Sc – when the eyes were inserted.

Color change (red)

28) 30Sc

29) for BLO (3Sc, Dec)* 6 (24)

30) (2Sc, Dec) *6 (18)

31) (1Sc, Dec) *6 (12)

32) 6Dec (6), pull and hide thread

Hair (red)

Let’s knit. join the thread to the 28th row behind the FLO.

Long strands: 9 Ch, from the 2nd loop from hook 8Sc,2Sc – repeat 6-7 times.

Short strands: 3 Ch, from the 2nd loop from hook 2Sc,2Sc – repeat 9 times.

Let’s start the design.

We distribute all the strands, sew them on or glue them with glue (I use B-7000 glue).

We embroider the eyebrows with black thread.

Embroider the nose with body-colored thread.

We embroider the mouth with red thread.

We embroider the whites of the eyes with white thread.

We do tinting on the cheeks and ears.

We sew the cap on if necessary.

  I will be glad if you liked this

The post Amigurumi Little Elf Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Abbreviations.

MR – amigurumi ring

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Sl-st – connecting post

Ch – air loop

İnc – increase

Dec – decrease

Legs (2 parts).

Red yarn

First we will tie 2 legs, then we will connect them and we will knit the body.

1. 6 Sc in MR

2.6 inc (12)

3. (1 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (18)

4. Only behind the back wall 18 Sc. (18)

5. 18 Sc (18)

6. 5 Sc, 4 Dec, 5 Sc (14)

7. 5 Sc, 2 Dec, 5 Sc (12)

Flesh yarn

8. Only behind the back wall 12 Sc. (12)

9-25(15 r.). 12 Sc. (12)

We knit the second leg exactly the same way.

Body. White yarn.

Connecting legs 2 Ch. And we continue to knit the body.

26. 12 Sc, 2 Sc on a chain, 12 Sc, 2 Sc on a chain (28)

27. 3 Sc, 1 inc, (6 Sc, 1 inc) x3, 3 Sc (32)

28. (7 Sc, 1 inc) x 4 (36)

29-31(3 r.). 36 Sc (36)

Yellow or blue yarn.

32. 36 Sc. (36)

33. Only behind the back wall 36 Sc (36)

34. 2 Sc, 1 Dec, (4 Sc, 1 Dec) x5, 2 Sc (30)

35-36. 30 Sc (30)

37. (3 Sc, 1 Dec) x6 (24)

38-43(6 r.). 24 Sc (24)

44. 1Sc, 1 Dec, (2Sc, 1 Dec) x5, 1 Sc (18)

45. (1 Sc, 1 Dec) x6 (12)

Head.

Flesh yarn

46.12Sc (12)

47. 12 inc (24)

48. (3 Sc, 1 inc) x6 (30)

49. 2 Sc, 1 inc, (4 Sc, 1 inc) x5, 2 Sc (36)

50. (5 Sc, 1 inc) x6 (42)

51. 3 Sc, 1 inc, (6 Sc, 1 inc) x5, 3 Sc (48)

52. (7 Sc, 1 inc) x6 (54)

53-63(11 r.). 54 Sc (54)

Insert safety eyes between 54 and 55 rows at a distance of 11 stitches

64. (7 Sc, 1 Dec) x6 (48)

65. 3 Sc, 1 Dec, (6 Sc, 1 Dec) x5, 3 Sc (42)

66. (5 Sc, 1 Dec) x6 (36)

67. 2 Sc, 1 Dec, (4 Sc,1 Dec) x5, 2 Sc (30)

68. (3 Sc, 1 Dec) x6 (24)

69. 1 Sc, 1 Dec, (2 Sc, 1 Dec) x5, 1 Sc (18)

70. (1 Sc, 1 Dec) x6 (12)

71. 6 Dec (6)

Skirt.

Yellow or blue yarn.

We attach the yarn to the 33rd row of the body (we hold the doll upside down). 1. 36 Sc (36)

2. (3 Ch, 1 Dc to the same point), 35 inc Dc (increases with double crochets). (72)

3. 3 Ch, 1 Dc to the same point, (1 Dc, 1 inc Dc) x35 (108)

4. 3 Ch, 108 Dc (108)

Make a row of Sl-st with contrasting yarn and tie a bow.

Hair

Brown yarn

1. 6 Sc in MR

2.6 inc (12)

3. (1 Sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4. (2 Sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5. (3 Sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6. (4 Sc, inc) x 6 (36)

7. (5 Sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8. (6 Sc, inc) x 6 (48)

9. (7 Sc, inc) x 6 (54)

10-19 (10 r.). 54 Sc (54)

20. (7 Sc, Dec) x 6 (48)

Bun (2 parts).

Brown yarn

1. 6 Sc in MR

2.6 inc (12)

3. (1 Sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4. (2 Sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5-8(3 r). 24 Sc (24)

9. (2 Sc, Dec) x 6 (18)

Hands (2 parts).

Flesh yarn

1. 4 Sc in MR

2.4 inc (8)

3-17(15 r.). 8 Sc (8)

Flowers.

1. 4 Sc in MR

2.4 inc (8). Collect flowers in a bouquet.

Leaves.

Make 5 picots from 5 Ch in MR. Wrap the leaves in a bouquet and attach to the buns on your head.

The post Crochet Skirt Doll Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Materials

1. Yarn yarn art geans: for body 05; pink 18; gray 80 ; yellow 86.

2. Yarn for hair 100% acrylic (I used pekhorka “children’s novelty” yarn).

3. Hook 2.00mm.

4. Holofiber.

5. Yarn for decorating the face.

6. Needle.

7. Strong thread for attaching hair.

Abbreviations

SC-single crochet

CH – air loop

SL-ST – connecting post

MR- amigurumi ring

İNC – increase

DEC – decrease

Since your hands will get involved as you knit, you need to start knitting with your hands.

Hand (two hands connected equally).

Body color.

1p.6Sc in Mr

2p.(1Sc,1İnc)×3= 9Sc

3-4r.9Sc

Let’s start knitting a sleeve.

Attach a thread of an additional color. Leave the end of the thread approximately 2 meters. The body color thread can be cut off; we will no longer need it.

5r.9Sc

6p.9Sc for the far wall of the loop.

For ease of knitting, at this stage we knit the bottom of the sleeve using the thread from the beginning of the color change. Then we will continue knitting the main part of the sleeve.

We knit the bottom of the sleeve.

Pick up the tip of the thread from the beginning of knitting the sleeve, and knit against the main knitting stroke (in the opposite direction) behind the near wall of the loop.

1r.9Sc

2р.9İnc=18Sc

3 rub. 18Sc. Finish row 1Sl-st Cut the thread. Hide the end of the thread.

We continue to knit the main part of the sleeve.

7r.9İnc = 18Sc

8-16r.18Sc

Fill the brush tightly (body color), fill loosely to the middle of the sleeve.

  17r.9Dec=9Sc

Fold in half and knit 4Sc sleeves on both sides. To secure the thread, knit 1 Ch., tighten. Cut the thread.

Knit the other hand in exactly the same way.

Leg (Two legs connected equally).

1p.6Sc in Mr

2р.6İnc =12Sc

3-18r.12Sc

Fill tightly.

Body.

Cut the thread on 1 leg, on the second leg do not cut the thread, knit 1 Ch., attach the first leg, knit 12Sc; 1Sc for one wall of the air loop, 12Sc for the second leg, 1Sc for the second wall of the air loop, put a marker (mark the beginning of the row).

1-6r.26Sc

Attach a thread of a different color (color of the dress).

7r.26Sc

8p.26Sc for the far wall of the loop.

9-13r. 26Sc

Fill tightly, paying special attention to the area where the legs and body connect.

In the 14th row we will tie our hands. Marker (beginning of row)

should be located in the center of the back. If the beginning of the row “goes” back, knit 1 Sc offset. We make sure that the hands are positioned strictly at the sides.

14p.3Sc, 4Sc with hand (knitting 1Sc of body and 1Sc of arms at the same time), 12Sc, 4Sc with hand (knitting at the same time

1Sc body and 1Sc arms), 3Sc.

15r.3Sc, 1Dec, 16Sc,1Dec, 3Sc = 24Sc

16r.(2Sc, 1Dec)×6= 18Sc

Fill tightly.

17r.(1Sc, 1Dec)×6=12Sc Change the color of the dress to the color of the body.

18R.12Sc for the far wall of the loop. Cut the thread in the color of the dress and hide the tip.

19 rub. (1Sc, 1İnc)×6=18Sc

Head.

20r.(2Sc, 1İnc)×6= 24Sc

21r.(3Sc, 1İnc)×6=30Sc

22r.(4Sc, 1İnc)×6=36Sc

23r.(5Sc, 1İnc)×6=42Sc

24-32r. 42Sc

Fill the shoulder and neck area tightly.

33 rub.(5Sc, 1Dec)×6=36Sc

34r.(4Sc, 1Dec)×6= 30Sc

35 rub.(3Sc, 1Dec)×6=24Sc

36 rub.(2Sc, 1Dec)×6=18Sc

Fill your head tightly. We form an even ball on all sides.

37r.(1Sc, 1Dec)×6= 12Sc

38r.6Dec= 6Sc

Tighten the hole with a needle.

Hair

Cut the yarn into pieces 20cm long.

Mark the hair line.

On the forehead, the hairline runs between rows 31 and 32. We mark the middle of this line (the middle of the forehead), and from this point to the sides we count 7Sc. We mark the extreme points of the hairline on the forehead with bobby pins.

The hairline at the back of the head runs between rows 26 and 27.

We mark the middle of this line, and from this point to the sides we count 5Sc. We mark the extreme points of the hairline of the back of the head with bobby pins.

First, we stitch the hair moving along a straight line that runs from the nape line, through the center of the head, to the forehead line. Then we sew a parallel line from the line of the forehead to the line of the back of the head. Between these lines 1Sc. We form an even parting. For a beautiful parting, stitching should be done in each row.

Hair fastening method.

We’ll need a durable one! thread (be sure to check it for breakage). For ease of explanation, I’ll call this thread the “warp thread.” Thread the warp thread into the needle, tie a knot, hide the knot in the head, and bring the needle out in the right place.

Secure the hair thread to the warp thread with a knot as close to the head as possible and insert the needle into the same hole. Bring the needle through the row again. Tighten the warp thread tightly so that the hair knot “hides” inside the head. We will attach all the hair in this way.

Face design.

Between the rows we mark with invisible eyes the location of the eyes. Between the Invisibles 4Sc.

1. Insert a needle with a knot in the back of the head, hide the knot inside the head, withdraw the needle at the place where the eyes are embroidered (point A).

2. Insert the needle in the same row through 3Sc (point B), and without tightening the thread, bring the tip of the needle to the top in the next row through 1 stitch (point B). Make sure that the thread passes under the needle.

3. Remove the needle completely, lay the thread, and insert the needle in the same place (point B).

4. Bring the needle through 1 column in the same row for embroidering eyelashes (point D). Insert the needle again into point B and bring it out at the place where the second eye is embroidered. Repeat the same.

Mouth.

1.After stitching from point G to point B, bring the needle to point D (point D 3 rows below the eye line).

2.Remove the needle and weight completely tee in the same row through 6 columns (point I). Bring the needle 1 row lower, 1 column from point D (point K).

3.Remove the needle completely from point K, grab the “mouth line”, and insert it again into point K. Bring the needle to point L. Grab the “mouth line” again, and again insert the needle to point L. Bring the needle to the back of the head. Cut the thread and hide the end.

Nose.

1. Insert a needle with a knot in the back of the head, hide the knot inside the head, withdraw the needle at the place where the nose is embroidered (point A). Point A is located 1 row below the eye line.

2. Insert the needle in the same row through 2Sc (point B).

3. Bring the needle to point A and reinsert it to point B. Bring the needle to the back of the head. Cut off the thread and hide the end. Add tint as desired. For tinting, I used dry pastel “portrait” Gamma.

Dress (Hook 2.00).

Dial 27Ch.

Start knitting from the second loop from the hook. We will knit in turning rows. At the end of each row 1Ch. rise.

1-2 rub. 26Sc

3р.26İnc= 52Sc

4-14r. 52Sc

Knit single crochets on 1 side.

When tying, we knit 3Sc into all corner posts.

On top:

5Sc, 1Ch. rise.

Next, knit the strap in turning rows, 2 Sc per

each row, 16 rows. In every row except the last one,

do 1 Ch. rise.

Count from the strap along the top of the dress

4Sc, into 5Sc from the wrong side, insert the hook (after removing the loop from it). Grab the strap loop and pull it to the wrong side. Make 1Ch. Knit 2 connecting stitches, at the same time picking up the loop of the top of the dress and the loop of the strap (we knit the first connecting stitch under the same loop from which we pulled the loop from the strap).

Next 4Sc. +1Ch. We knit in turning rows 16 rows of 2Sc. (same as the first strap). Skip 4Sc, join in the same way.

Work 3Sc to edge, 1Ch., turn.

Single crochet stitching along the straps, top, sides and bottom of the dress.

(In corner columns at 3Sc).

Work 3Sc to edge, 1Ch., turn.

Single crochet stitching along the straps, top, sides and bottom of the dress.

(In corner columns at 3Sc).

Knit a buttonhole.

I hope everything worked out for you!

The post Amigurumi Mini Cute Doll Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

ABBREVIATIONS:

Amigurumi MR ring

CH-air loop

SL-ST-connecting post

SC-single crochet

DC double crochet

Inc- İncrase

Dec-Decrase

TR double crochet stitch

HDC half double crochet

HEAD.

1. 6 SC to MR

2.6 inc (12)

3. (1 SC, 1 İnc)*6 (18)

4. (1 SC, 1 İnc, 1 SC)*6 (24)

5. (3 SC, 1 İnc)*6 (30)

6. (2 SC, 1 İnc, 2 SC)*6 (36)

7. (5 SC, 1 İnc)*6 (42)

8. (3 SC, 1 İnc, 3 SC)*6 (48)

9. (7 SC, 1 İnc)*6 (54)

10. (4 SC, 1 İnc, 4 SC)*6 (60)

11.60 SC

12. 17 SC, 1 İnc, (5 SC, 1 İnc)*4, 18 SC (65)

13-20. 65 SC

21. 17 SC, 1 Dec, (5 SC, 1 Dec)*4, 18 SC (60)

22.60 SC

23. 19 SC, 1 Dec, 8 SC, 1 Dec, 8 SC, 1 Dec, 19 SC (57)

24. 19 SC, 1 İnc, 8 SC, 1 İnc, 8 SC, 1 İnc, 19 SC (60)

25. 17 SC, 1 İnc, (5 SC, 1 İnc)*4, 18 SC (65)

25-27. 65 SC

28. 15 SC, (1 Dec, 5 SC)*5, 15 SC (60)

29.60 SC

30. (4 SC, 1 Dec, 4 SC)*6 (54)

31. (7 SC, 1 Dec)*6 (48)

32. (3 SC, 1 Dec, 3 SC)*6 (42)

33. (5 SC, 1 Dec)*6 (36)

34. (2 SC, 1 Dec, 2 SC)*6 (30)

35. (3 SC, 1 Dec)*6 (24)

36. (1 SC, 1 Dec, 1 SC)*6 (18)

37. (1 SC, 1 Dec)*6 (12)

38. (2 SC, 1 Dec)*3 (9)

Stuff while knitting.

HANDS. (2 children)

1. 5 CH, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 3 SC, 3 SC in one loop, 2 SC, 1 inc (10)

2. 1 İnc, 2 İnc, 3 İnc, 2 İnc, 2 İnc (16)

3. 16 SC

4. 4 SC, 3 Dec from Hdc, 6 SC (13)

5-6. 13 SC

7. 5 SC, 1 Dec, 6 SC (12)

8. 12 SC

9. 5 SC, 1 Dec, 5 SC (11)

10-14. 11 SC Next we knit in turning rows

15. From the 3rd loop 7 SC (7) turn

16. From the 2nd loop 5 SC (5)

17. 11 SC around the entire perimeter

Leave the thread for sewing.

LEGS (2 children)

1. 6 CH, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 4 SC, 3 SC in one loop, 3 SC, 1 inc (12)

2. (1 inc, 1 SC)*2, 3 inc, (1 SC, 1 inc)*2, 1 inc (20)

3. 6 SC, 1 Hdc, 4 İnc of Hdc, 1 Hdc, 8 SC (24)

4. 6 SC, 5 Dec from Hdc, 8 SC (19)

5-7. 19 SC

8. 5 SC, 1 Dec, 3 SC, 1 Dec, 7 SC (17)

9. 17 SC

10. 4 SC, 1 Dec, 3 SC, 1 Dec, 6 SC (15)

11. 1 Dec, 2 SC, 1 İnc, 3 SC, 1 İnc, 2 SC, 1 Dec, 2 SC (15)

12. 1 İnc, 11 SC, 1 İnc, 2 SC (17)

13. 7 SC, 1 İnc, 9 SC (18)

14-15. 18 SC

Insert a plastic or cardboard base into the sole for stability. Insert wire. Stuff it. Cut the thread of the first leg, do not cut the second leg. We continue to knit the hips.

1. 4 SC to the 2nd leg (continue knitting from the leg where the thread is not cut), 2 CH, join the 4th loop of the first leg and knit 18 SC, 2 SC along the chain, 14 SC along the second leg. (40)

2. Knit 11 loops, then knit in turning rows. 1 CH, 1 SC, (1 Hdc, İnc from Hdc)*4, 1 Hdc, Dec from Hdc, (1 Hdc, İnc from Hdc)*4, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, SL-ST (31)

3. 1 CH, turn, skip 1 loop, SL-ST, 1 SC, 25 Hdc, 1 SC, SL-ST (29)

4. 1 CH, turn, skip 2 loops, SL-ST, 1 SC, 21 Hdc, 1 SC, SL-ST (25)

5. 1 CH, turn, skip 2 loops, SL-ST, 1 SC, 1 Hdc, Dec from Hdc, 2 Hdc, Dec from Hdc, 3 Hdc, Dec from Hdc, 2 Hdc, Dec from Hdc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC (17)

6. 1 CH, turn, skip 1 stitch, SL-ST, 1 SC, 2 Hdc, Dec from Hdc, 3 Hdc, Dec from Hdc, 2 Hdc, 1 SC, SL-ST (13) You should have a convex part (butt) behind the body.

Next we knit in a circle.

7. 6 SC, 6 SC, 2 Dec, 6 SC, 6 SC, 13 SC (39)

8. 4 SC, (1 Dec, 1 SC)*3, (1 SC, 1 Dec)*3, 17 SC (33)

9. 33 SC

Next we knit the body.

During the knitting process, colors change. Focus on

photo of the original.

1. Make 4 increases in the middle of the tummy (37)

2.37 SC

3. 8 SC, 1 Dec, 16 SC, 1 Dec, 7 SC, 1 Dec (34)

4. 1 Dec, 30 SC, 1 Dec (32)

5. 32 SC

6. 1 İnc, 5 SC, 1 Dec, 16 SC, 1 Dec, 5 SC, 1 İnc (32)

7-8. 32 SC

9.32 SC

10. 6 SC, 1 Dec, 16 SC, 1 Dec, 6 SC (30)

11. 5 SC, 1 Dec, 16 SC, 1 Dec, 5 SC (28)

12. 5 SC, 1 Dec, 14 SC, 1 Dec, 5 SC (26)

13. 6 Dec, 2 SL-ST, 6 Dec (14)

14. 3 SC, 1 Dec, 4 SC, 1 Dec, 3 SC (12)

15. (2 SC, 1 Dec)*3 (9)

16-17. 9 SC

BIG WINGS.

Right wing.

1. 18 CH, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 16 SC, (SC, 3 CH, from the 2nd loop SL-ST, SC, SC), 3 Hdc, 1 Dc, 2 İnc from Dc, 4 Hdc, 2 SC, 4 SL-ST.

Left wing.

1. 18 CH, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 4 SL-ST, 2 SC, 4 Hdc, 2 İnc from Dc, 1 Dc, 3 Hdc, (SC, 3 CH, from the 2nd loop SL-ST, SC, SC), 16 SC

Right wing.

1. 13 CH, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 2 SL-ST, 2 SC, 3 Hdc, 1 Dc, 2 İnc from Dc, 1 Hdc, (1 Hdc, 2 CH, SL-ST, 2 CH, 1 Hdc), 6 Hdc, 5 SC

Left wing.

1. 13 CH, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 5 SC, 6 Hdc, (1 Hdc, 2 CH, SL-ST, 2 CH, 1 Hdc), 1 Hdc, 2 İnc from Dc, 1 Dc, 3 Hdc , 2 SC, 1 SL-ST

EARS.

1. 8 CH, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 2 SC, 3 Hdc, 1 SC, 3 SC in one loop, 1 SC, 3 Hdc, 1 SC, 1 inc (16) Insert thin wire.

2. 2 SC, 3 Hdc, 2 SC, 5 CH, from the 2nd loop: 2 SC, 1 Hdc, 1 Dc, skip 1 loop, 2 SC, 3 Hdc, 2 SC, 1 İnc HAIR.

Knit 2 pcs. different colors.

  The basis:

1. 6 SC to MR

2.6 inc (12)

3. (1 SC, 1 İnc)*6 (18)

Next we knit the curls.

1. 30 CH, from the 2nd loop: 1 SC, 1 Hdc, 25 DC, 1 Hdc, 1 SC turn, 29 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, skip 1 loop, 28 SC, SL-ST.

2-3. 31 CH, from the 2nd loop: 1 SC, 1 Hdc, 26 Dc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, turn, 30 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, skip 1 loop, 29 SC, SL-ST

4-6. 32 CH, from 2nd loop: 1 SC, 1 Hdc, 27 Dc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, turn, 31 SL-ST, 1 CH, skip 1 loop, 30 SC, SL-ST

7-8. 31 CH, from 2nd loop: 1 SC, 1 Hdc, 26 Dc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, turn, 30 SL-ST, 1 CH, skip 1 loop, 29 SC, SL-ST

9. 30 CH, from the 2nd loop: 1 SC, 1 Hdc, 25 Dc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, turn, 29 SL-ST, 1 CH, skip 1 loop, 28 SC, SL-ST

10. 27 CH, from the 2nd loop: 3 SC, 3 Hdc, 18 Dc, 1 Hdc. 1 SC, SL-ST

11. 16 CH, from the 2nd loop: 1 SC, 1 Hdc, 11 Dc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, turn, 15 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, skip 1 loop, 14 SC, SL-ST

12. 32 CH, from the 2nd loop: 1 SC, 1 Hdc, 13 Dc, (İnc from Dc, 1 Dc)*3, 8 Dc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, turn, 34 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, skip 1 stitch, 33 SC, SL-ST

13. 22 CH, from the 4th loop: 1 Dc, 3 Dc together, Dec from Dc, 3 Dc, 10 Hdc, turn, 16 SL-ST, 3 CH, turn, from the 4th loop: 1 Dc, 2 Dec from Dc, 4 Hdc, 7 SC, SL-ST, turn, 14 SL-ST, 3 CH, turn, from the 4th loop: 1 Dc, 2 İnc from Dc, 4 Hdc, 7 SC, turn, 17 SL -ST, 3 CH, turn, from the 5th loop: 1 Dc, 3 Dc in one loop, İnc from Dc, 3 Dc, 10 Hdc, SL-ST.

14. 35 CH, from 2nd loop: 1 SC, 1 Hdc, 13 Hdc, (Dec from Dc, 1 Dc)*3, 8 Dc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, turn, 31 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, skip 1 stitch, 30 SC, SL-ST.

15. 16 CH, from the 2nd loop: 1 SC, 1 Hdc, 11 Dc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, turn, 15 SL-ST, 1 CH, skip 1 loop, 14 SC, SL-ST.

16. 27 CH, from 2nd loop: 3 SC, 3 Hdc, 18 Dc, 1 Hdc, 1 SC, SL-ST

17. Curl at the temples: 7 CH, from the 2nd loop: 5 SC, (4 HDC in one loop), 4 SC

PANTIES.

Knit in turning rows.

1. 5 CH, from 3rd loop: 3 Hdc

2. Turn, 3 SL-ST, 3 CH, turn, from the 3rd loop: 1 Hdc, 2 Hdc, inc from Hdc

3. Turn, 6 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, from the 2nd loop: İnc, 4 Hdc, İnc

4. Turn, 8 SL-ST. 2 CH, turn, from 2nd loop: İnc, 7 Hdc, İnc

5. Turn, 11 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, from the 2nd loop: İnc, 9 Hdc, İnc

6. Turn, 13 SL-ST, 2 CH, turn, from the 2nd loop: İnc, 11 Hdc, 2 SC

7. Turn, 15 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, from the 2nd loop: İnc, 12 Hdc, 2 SC

8-9. Turn, 16 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, from 2nd loop: 2 SC, 12 Hdc, 2 SC

10. Turn, 16 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, from 3rd loop: 2 SC, 11 Hdc, 2 SC

11.Turn, 15 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, from 3rd loop: 2 SC, 10 Hdc, Dec

12. Turn, 13 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, from 3rd loop: 2 SC, 8 Hdc, Dec

13. Turn, 10 SL-ST, skip 1 stitch, 1 CH, turn, from 3rd stitch: 2 SC, 5 Hdc, Dec

14. Turn, 7 SL-ST, skip 1 loop, 2 CH, turn, from the 4th loop: 4 Hdc, Dec from Hdc

15. Turn, 4 SL-ST, skip 1 loop, 2 CH, turn, from the 4th loop: Hdc, Dec from Hdc

16. Turn, 3 SL-ST, 2 CH, turn, from 3rd loop: Hdc, 2 Hdc

17. Turn, 4 SL-ST, 2 CH, turn, from 3rd loop: Hdc, 3 Hdc

18. Turn, 5 SL-ST, 2 CH. Turn, from 3rd loop: Hdc, 2 Hdc, Dec from Hdc

19. Turn, 5 SL-ST, 2 CH, turn, from 3rd loop: Hdc, 4 Hdc

20. Turn, 6 SL-ST, 2 CH, turn, from the 4th loop: 5 Hdc

21. Turn, 5 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, from the 3rd loop: 3 Hdc, İnc from Hdc

22. Turn, 4 SL-ST, skip 1 loop, 1 CH, turn, from the 2nd loop: 3 Hdc, İnc from Hdc

23. Turn, 5 SL-ST, 1 CH, turn, from 3rd loop: 4 Hdc

Sew the part with panties, tie around the entire perimeter

LEAVES.

1. 31 CH, from the 2nd loop: 2 SC, 2 Hdc, 13 Dc. 6 Hdc, 6 SC, (SC, pico from 3 CH, SC), 6 SC, 6 Hdc, 13 Dc, 2 Hdc, 1 SC, İnc

2. 2 CH, İnc from Hdc, İnc from Dc, 2 Dc, (İnc from Tr, 2 Tr)*4, İnc from Dc, 3 Dc, 4 Hdc, 5 SC, (SC, pico from 3 CH, SC) , 5 SC, 4 Hdc, 3 Dc, İnc from Dc, (2 Tr, İnc from Tr)*4, 2 Dc, İnc from Dc, İnc from Hdc, Hdc, İnc

3. (3 CH, Dc), (3 Tr, İnc from Tr)*4, 2 Tr, Dc, İnc from Dc, 3 Dc, İnc from Dc, Dc, 6 Hdc, 6 SC, (SC, pico from 3 CH, SC), 6 SC, 6 Hdc, Dc, İnc from Dc. 3 Dc, İnc from Dc, Dc, 2 Tr, (İnc from Tr, 3 Tr)*4, İnc from Dc, 2 Dc

4. 2 SC, 15 Hdc, 29 SC, (SC, pico, SC), 29 SC, 17 Hdc, 2 SL-ST

The post Amigurumi Cute Elf Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

With our free patterns, you can unleash your creativity and craft your very own bat, devil, or vampire decorations. Imagine these adorable yet eerie creatures adorning your mantelpiece, hanging from your ceiling, or even serving as quirky table centerpieces for your Halloween gatherings.

Materials:

• 2.5 mm hook

• sport cotton yarn

(I used Schachenmayr Catania)

– brown

– orange and yellow

– cream

– green

• Black embroidery thread

• Safety eyes 8.00 and 6.00 mm

• Stuffing

• Yarn needle

• Stitch marker

The size of the Halloween toys are approximately 12-13 cm from head to bottom. It may vary though depending on the kind of yarn and hook size used.

You can also use any color of yarn.

Feel free to add accessories to your very own Halloween decoration toys.

Abbreviations:

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• sc – single crochet

• st/sts – stitch/stitches

• inc – increase

• dec – decrease

• dc – double crochet

• FO – fasten off

BODY (pumpkin)

Use the orange yarn. Ch 29. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.

Rnd 1: start in third ch from the hook, hdc in each back ridge loop, (fig 1, 2 and 3) [27

Rnd 2-32: turn your crocheting, 2 starting ch, hdc in each back loop, (fig 4, 5, 6 and 7) [27]

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

How to finish:

Insert the needle in back loop of opposite side (fig 8), then go to another side and insert the needle in front loop (fig 9).

Sew the opening through the back and front loops by going across each stitch (fig 10, 11).

Fix the threads with 2 knots. Cut the long tail of yarn (about 30 cm long), insert the needle in top loops of each round, (fig 12, 13)

Tighen the yarn good and fix the tails with two knoks (fig 14). We should have a small hole. Stuff the pumpkin firmly.

Use the long tail, close the pumpkin in the other side. Before the closing, attach the eyes in the center (fig 15) and fix the tails with 2 knots.

Then, use the remaining tail of yarn, go down through the small hole and return to up. Tighten the thread making the form of pumpkin. repeat it twice. Embroider the zigzag mouth using the black embroidery thread and pins (fig 16).

Tendrils

Ch 45. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, 12 inc, 20 slst, 12 inc, (fig 17)

HEAD

Use the cream yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]

Rnd 7: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x5, inc, sc [42]

Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-18: sc around [48], 10 rounds Attach the safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16 with 10 stitches in-between (fig 1).

• Tip: I used invisible decrease for the next rounds.

Rnd 19: (6 sc, dec) x6 [42]

Rnd 20: 4 sc, (dec, 5 sc) x5, dec, sc [36]

Rnd 21: 2 sc, (dec, 4 sc) x5, dec, 2 sc [30]

Rnd 22: (dec, 3 sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 23: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]

Stuff the head firmly (fig 2).

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Embroider the small eyelashes, mouth and tooth (fig 3).

HAT

Use the light brown yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]

Rnd 7: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x5, inc, sc [42]

Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-17: sc around [48], 9 rounds Change the color of yarn to dark brown.

How to change the color of yarn:

With the two loops from the previous yarn on the hook (fig 4), wrap the new yarn around the hook, then pull the new yarn through the two loops of the stitch (fig 5).

Rnd 18: (sc, hdc, dc, ch1 and slst in the same

stitch with dc) x16, (fig 6)

HORNS (make 2)

Use the dark brown yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: inc, 5 sc [7]

Rnd 3: inc, 6 sc [8]

Rnd 4: inc, 7 sc [9]

Rnd 5: inc, 8 sc [10]

Rnd 6: inc, 9 sc [11]

Rnd 7: inc, 10 sc [12]

FO. Stuff the horns firmly, then cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing (fig 10).

Sew the horns to hat between rounds 8 and 12 (fig 11, 12).

WINGS (make 2)

Use the dark brown and brown yarn.

Ch 7. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, 4 sc, 3 sc in last st.

Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, 5 sc [14]

Rnd 2: (inc, 6 sc) x2 [16]

Rnd 3-4: sc around [16]

Rnd 5: sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc [14]

Rnd 6: sc around [14]

Rnd 7: sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 4 sc [12]

Crochet 1 sc more after round 7, fasten off with slst in next st. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

TAIL

Use the dark brown yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (inc, sc) x3 [9]

Rnd 3: sc around, [9]

Rnd 4: (inc, 2 sc) x3 [12]

Rnd 5-6: sc around [12]

Rnd 7: (dec) x6 [6] Change the color to light brown.

Rnd 8-29: sc around [6] Don’t stuff the tail, cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing.

Assembling:

Place the head at the top of the pumpkin and sew it around.

Sew the wings to the pumpkin on the two sides (fig 16 and 17).

Sew the green tendrils to pumpkin.

At last, sew the tail to pumpkin on the back side.

To make the pumpkin, use the pattern on top. 

HEAD

Use the cream yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]

Rnd 7: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x5, inc, sc [42]

Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-18: sc around [48], 10 rounds Attach the safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16 with 10 stitches in-between.

Rnd 19: (6 sc, dec) x6 [42]

Rnd 20: 4 sc, (dec, 5 sc) x5, dec, sc [36]

Rnd 21: 2 sc, (dec, 4 sc) x5, dec, 2 sc [30]

Rnd 22: (dec, 3 sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 23: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]

Stuff the head firmly.

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Embroider the mouth and teeth (fig 1, 2).

HAT

Use the grey yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]

Rnd 7: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x5, inc, sc [42]

Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-17: sc around [48], 9 rounds

Rnd 18: 13 sc, hdc, inc dc, hdc, 7 sc (fig 3),

hdc, inc dc, hdc, 7 sc, hdc, inc dc, hdc, 12 sc

(fig 4)

Decoration:

We are going to use embroidery backstitch to

decorate the hat.

Take the long tail of yellow yarn.

Bring your needle up through your starting

point (fig 5). Then, insert your needle one

stitch back from the starting point and pull

up the needle one stitch to forward (fig 6).

Make the backstitch around the hat (fig 7).

CLOAK (make 2)

Use the grey and yellow yarn.

Ch 13. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in each loop [12]

Rnd 2: turn your crocheting, 1 starting ch, (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 3: turn, 1 starting ch, sc around, (fig 10) [18]

Rnd 4: turn, 1 starting ch, (inc, 2 sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: turn, 1 starting ch, sc around [24]

Rnd 6: turn, 1 starting ch, (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 7: turn, 1 starting ch, sc around [30]

Rnd 8: turn, 1 starting ch, 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]

Rnd 9: turn, 1 starting ch, sc around [36]

Rnd 10: turn, 1 starting ch, (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 11: turn, 1 starting ch, sc around [42] Fold two pieces together.

•Tip: if you want to see yellow piece on top,

use the grey yarn for decoration.

I putted the grey piece on top and use yellow yarn for decoratin.

Take a long tail of yellow yarn (fig 13).

Decorate the cloak around using the back embroidery stitch (fig 14, 15).

Assembling:

Sew the head to the pumpkin in the same way as the head of devil (fig 16).

Sew the cloak to pumpkin behind the head.

Sew the tendrils to pumpkin (fig 18).

To make a pumpkin, use the pattern on second and third pages.

HEAD Bat

Use the cream yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]

Rnd 7: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x5, inc, sc [42]

Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-18: sc around [48], 10 rounds

Attach the safety eyes between rounds 15

and 16 with 10 stitches in-between.

Rnd 19: (6 sc, dec) x6 [42]

Rnd 20: 4 sc, (dec, 5 sc) x5, dec, sc [36]

Rnd 21: 2 sc, (dec, 4 sc) x5, dec, 2 sc [30]

Rnd 22: (dec, 3 sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 23: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]

Stuff the head firmly.

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

HAT

Use the purple yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (inc, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x5, inc, 2 sc [36]

Rnd 7: 4 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x5, inc, sc [42]

Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-17: sc around [48], 9 rounds

Rnd 18: (2 sc, picot stitch) x24, (fig 3 and 4)

How to make picot stitch:

Crochet 3 chains (fig 1);

Insert your hook in the third chain

from the hook;

Yarn over and draw the yarn through

the stitch and through the loop on the hook (fig 2).

Decorate the hat with chain stitch.

Insert the hook through the stitch between rounds 16 and 17 (fig 5) and pick up the yarn. Pull it through (fig 6).

Insert the hook again in the next stitch and pull the yarn through the stitch and loop on the hook (fig

7). Make the chain stitches around the hat.

EARS (make 2)

Use the purple yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnd 3: sc around [9]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]

Cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew the ears to hat.

Embroider the mouth and eyeslash (fig 10).

Wings (make 2)

Use the purple yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]

Rnd 4: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]

Rnd 5: (4 sc, inc) x3 [18]

Rnd 6: (5 sc, inc) x3 [21]

Rnd 7: sc around [21]

Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x3 [24]

Rnd 9-10: sc around [24]

Close the wing across both stitches:

(hdc+ch+hdc) in next st, 4 sc, (hdc+ch+hdc)

in next st, 4 sc, (hdc+ch+hdc) in last stitch

(fig 11, 12 and 13).

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Use the needle, bring the tail of yarn to

magic ring going through inside (fig ).

Embroider the three lines on wing (fig 14,15 and 16).

Assembling:

Sew the head to pumpkin.

Sew the wings to pumpkin from magic ring to round 5(6), (fig 19, 20, 21).

The post Crochet Halloween Decoration: Bat, Devil and Vampire, Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Anne Shirley, the imaginative and spirited character from Lucy Maud Montgomery’s timeless classic “Anne of Green Gables,” comes to life in yarn form with this delightful pattern. The intricate details capture Anne’s distinctive features, from her fiery red hair to her charming pinafore.

So, grab your crochet hooks and let the adventure begin! Download our Amigurumi Anne Shirley Free Pattern and embark on a whimsical journey that combines the timeless charm of literature with the artistry of crochet. Happy crafting!

Used materials

Skin color peria size 17

Green dress color alize coton gold 35

Apron alize coton gold 62

Shoe color peria 120

Hair color alize coton gold 36

Hat himagurumi 30166 Eyes 12 mm

Crochet used Tulip etimo rose 1.50

Head

1)6sc into MR

2) 1 inch = 12 sc in each stitch

3)(1sc1inc).6=18sc

4)(2sc1inc).6=24sc

5)(3sc1inc).6=30sc

6)(4sc1inc).6=36sc

7)(5sc1inc).6=42sc

8)(6sc1inc).6=48sc

9)(7sc1inc).6=54sc

10) (8sc1inc).6-60sc

11)(9sc1inc).6-66sc

12-24)66sc

25)(9sc1dec).6=60sc

26) (8sc1dec).6-54SC

27)(7sc1dec).6-48sc

26)(6sc1dec).6=42sc

27)(5sc1dec).6-36sc

28)(4sc1dec).6=30sc

29)(3sc1dec).6=24sc

30)(2sc1dec).6=18sc

Attach the eyes, leaving a 10SC gap between 19 and 20, and you’re done…

Shoes

1)8ch, 6sc from the 2nd, knit 3sc into the last chain, turn, 5sc, 1inc=16sc

2)1inc,5sc,1INC,1sc,1inc,6sc,1inc=20sc

3)1INC,3SC,1INC,3sc,1,1sc,1,3sc,1,3sc,1inc,1sc=26sc

4)Blo 26sc

5)26sc

6)7sc,6dec,7sc=20SC

7)4sc,6dec,4sc=14sc

8-11)14sc

12) 14sc from blob with skin color

13-43)14sc and done…

BODY

Knit the other leg in the same way and combine it with 4 chains without breaking the rope..

44)14sc,4sc over 4ch,14sc over 4ch=36sc

45-56)36sc

57)(4sc1dec).6=30sc

58-64)30sc

65) Make 1 decrease on each side, 28sc

66) Make 1 decrease on each side, 26sc

67)26sc

68) Make 1 decrease on each side, 24sc

69) Meanwhile, we attach the arms with 5sc.

70)we knit by turning around the arms 24sc

71)(2sc1dec).6=18sc

72)(4sc1dec).3=15sc

73-74)15sc and done..

ARMS

1)5sc into MR

2)5inch

3-29)10sc

finished…

Toupee

1)6sc into MR

2) 1 inch = 12 sc in each stitch

3)(1sc1inc).6=18sc

4)(2sc1inc).6=24sc

5)(3sc1inc).6=30sc

6)(4sc1inc).6-36sc

7)(5sc1inc).6=-42sc

8)(6sc1inc).6-48sc

9)(7sc1inc).6=54sc

10) (8sc1inc).6-60sc

11)(9sc1inc).6-66sc

12)(10sc1inc).6-72sc

Knit 13-20 stitches and you’re done..

Attach a rope to each loop by adjusting the hair length…

Dress

1)38 ch, 30sc from 8th

2) (2sc1inc) until the end of the row = 40sc

3)5sc,6ch skip 10sc,10sc,6ch skip 10sc,5sc

4)5sc,6sc over 6ch, 6sc,10sc over 6ch, 6sc over 6ch=32sc

5)(7sc1inc).4=36sc

6-9)36sc

10) Knit double dc in each sc, join with sl-st at the end of the row..

72 dc between 11-23 and done

DRESS SLEEVES

1)Attach the rope from the bottom and knit 16sc

2-25)16sc

Apron

1) Make 46 chains and 38 sc from the 8th

2)5sc,10ch skip 8sc,12sc,10ch skip 8sc,5sc

3)5sc,10sc on top of 10ch,10sc on top of 12sc,10sc on top of 10ch,5sc=42sc

4-8)42sc

9) Knit double Dc in each sc, 84 dc, 1 ch go to next row

10)84 sc,chain 2 and move on to the next row

11) 84 dc, 1 Ch, go to the next row, knit 2-25 rows in this way, one row of dc, one row of single crochet, and finish.

Hat

1)6sc into MR

2) 1 inch = 12 sc in each stitch

3)(1sc1inc).6-18sc

4)(2sc1inc).6-24sc

5)(3sc1inc).6-30sc

6)(4sc1inc).6-36sc

7)(5sc1inc).6-42sc

8)(6sc1inc).6-48sc

9)(7sc1inc).6-54sc

10)(8sc1inc).6-60sc

11)(9sc1inc).6-66sc

66sc with blo from 12-17

18) (1sc1inc) knit like this until the end of the row-99sc

19-22)99sc and done..

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