Abbreviations: 

CH – chain 

SC – single crochet 

DC – double crochet 

INC – increase (two stitches in one loop) 

DEC – decrease (two stitches together) 

Legs (2 parts) 

Crochet with raspberry-colored yarn. Fill firmly as you go. 

Row 1: Chain 18 CH, starting from the second loop from the hook, crochet 16 SC, 3 SC in the last loop of the chain, 15 SC, INC (36) 

Row 2: INC, 15 SC, 3 INC, 15 SC, 2 INC (42) 

Row 3: SC, INC, 15 SC, (SC, INC) x 3, 15 SC, (SC, INC) x 2 (48) 

Row 4: 2 SC, INC, 15 SC, (2 SC, INC) x 3, 15 SC, (2 SC, INC) x 2 (54) 

Row 5: 19 SC, (SC, INC) x 6, 23 SC (60) 

Row 6: Crochet 60 SC through the back loop of the stitch 

Rows 7 – 9: 60 SC 

Row 10: 19 SC, (SC, DEC) x 6, 23 SC (54) 

Row 11: 54 SC 

Row 12: 17 SC, (SC, DEC) x 6, 19 SC (48) 

Row 13: 48 SC 

Row 14: 17 SC, 6 DEC, 19 SC (42) 

Row 15: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 (36) 

Row 16: (4 SC, DEC) x 6 (30) 

Change yarn to white. 

Row 17: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 (24) 

Row 18: (4 SC, DEC) x 4 (20) 

Rows 19 – 39 (21 rows): Crochet 20 SC 

Finish crocheting. Cut the yarn. Make the second leg. 

Socks 

Crochet loosely, alternating one row with white yarn and one row with raspberry yarn. 

With white yarn, chain 24 CH. 

Rows 1 – 5: 24 SC 

Row 6: (3 SC, INC) x 6 (30) 

Row 7: 30 SC 

Row 8: (4 SC, INC) x 6 (36) 

Row 9: (5 SC, INC) x 6 (42) 

Rows 10 – 11: 42 SC 

Finish crocheting. Cut the yarn and hide the ends. Put the socks on the legs and sew the top edge with regular white yarn to keep the socks in place. Sew the bottom edge with raspberry yarn. 

Torso 

Start by joining the legs. 

Row 40: Attach white yarn where we cut the yarn on any leg and crochet 7 SC along that leg. Chain 7 CH. Take the second leg and attach the other end of the chain. Then crochet 20 SC (around the leg), 7 SC (into the chain of CH), 20 SC (around the leg), 7 SC (into the chain of CH) (54). Place a marker. 

Rows 41 – 42: 54 SC 

Row 43: (8 SC, INC) x 6 (60) 

Rows 44 – 50 (7 rows): 60 SC 

Row 51: (8 SC, DEC) x 6 (54) 

Rows 52 – 53: 54 SC 

Row 54: (7 SC, DEC) x 6 (48) 

Rows 55 – 59 (5 rows): 48 SC 

Row 60: (6 SC, DEC) x 6 (42) 

Rows 61 – 65 (5 rows): 42 SC 

Change yarn to gray. 

Row 66: 42 SC 

Row 67: Crochet 42 SC through the back loop of the stitch 

Rows 68 – 70: 42 SC 

Row 71: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 (36) 

Row 72: (4 SC, DEC) x 6 (30) 

Row 73: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 (24) 

Change yarn to white. 

Row 74: (4 SC, DEC) x 4 (20) 

Rows 75 – 78 (4 rows): 20 SC 

Finish crocheting. Cut the yarn. 

Skirt 

Return to row 67, where we crocheted through the back loop, and attach gray yarn. Now, crochet through the front loops, counter-clockwise. 

Row 1: Chain 3 as a turning chain, DC in each stitch of the row, SC at the end. In the end, you should have 82 DC. 

Row 2: Chain 3, then alternate (SC, INC) to the end of the row, SC at the end. You should have 124 SC. 

Rows 3 – 20 (18 rows): 124 SC. Each row starts with a chain of 3 as a turning chain and ends with SC in the first stitch of the row. 

Finish crocheting. Cut the yarn and hide it. 

Now, create the pattern for the underskirt. 

Sew lace along the edge of the skirt. 

Clothing for the Doll

Arms (2 pieces) 

Crochet with white yarn. 

Row 1: 6 SC in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: (INC) x 6 (12) 

Rows 3 – 6: 12 SC 

Change yarn to gray. 

Rows 7 – 36 (30 rows): 12 SC 

Row 37: (DEC) x 6 (6) 

Bolero 

Crochet with dark gray yarn. 

Row 1: Chain 40, SC in the 11th chain from the hook, chain 3, 4 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 5 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 8 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 5 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 4 DC, turn. 

Row 2: Chain 3, 5 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 7 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 10 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 7 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 5 SC, turn. 

Row 3: Chain 2, 6 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 9 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 12 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 9 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 6 DC, turn. 

Row 4: Chain 1, 7 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 11 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 14 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 11 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 7 SC, turn. 

Row 5: Chain 2, 8 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 13 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 16 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 13 DC, 3 DC in the next chain, 8 DC, turn. 

Row 6: Chain 1, 9 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 15 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 18 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 15 SC, 3 SC in the next chain, 9 SC, turn. 

Row 7: Chain 2, (DC, INC) x 5, skip 19 SC, (DC, INC) x 10, skip 19 SC, (INC, DC) x 5, turn. 

Row 8: Chain 1, 60 SC 

Row 9: Chain 2, 60 DC 

Row 10: Chain 1, 60 SC 

Bolero Sleeves 

Crochet with gray yarn. 

Row 1: Chain 2, 19 SC (in the round), slip stitch to the first stitch of the round. 

Row 2: Chain 2, 19 SC, slip stitch to the first stitch of the round. 

Rows 3 – 17: Alternate between row 1 and row 2 (i.e., row with SC, row with DC). 

Row 18: Crochet through the front loop of the chain, 19 SC, slip stitch. 

Row 19: Chain 2, 19 DC, slip stitch. 

Sew three buttons onto the bolero. 

Head 

Start with flesh-colored yarn. 

Row 1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

Row 2: (INC) x 6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 SC, INC) x 6 (18) 

Row 4: (2 SC, INC) x 6 (24) 

Row 5: (3 SC, INC) x 6 (30) 

Row 6: (4 SC, INC) x 6 (36) 

Row 7: (5 SC, INC) x 6 (42) 

Row 8: (6 SC, INC) x 6 (48) 

Row 9: (7 SC, INC) x 6 (54) 

Row 10: (8 SC, INC) x 6 (60) 

Row 11: (9 SC, INC) x 6 (66) 

Rows 12-24: 66 SC 

Row 25: (10 SC, INC) x 6 (72) 

Row 26: (11 SC, INC) x 6 (78) 

Rows 27-31: 78 SC 

Row 32: (11 SC, DEC) x 6 (72) 

Row 33: (10 SC, DEC) x 6 (66) 

Row 34: (9 SC, DEC) x 6 (60) 

Row 35: (8 SC, DEC) x 6 (54) 

Row 36: (7 SC, DEC) x 6 (48) 

Row 37: (6 SC, DEC) x 6 (42) 

Row 38: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 (36) 

Row 39: (4 SC, DEC) x 6 (30) 

Row 40: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 (24) 

Row 41: (2 SC, DEC) x 6 (18) 

Attach the eyes between rows 23 and 24 with a 10 SC gap between them. 

Hair 

Row 1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

Row 2: (INC) x 6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 SC, INC) x 6 (18) 

Row 4: (2 SC, INC) x 6 (24) 

Row 5: (3 SC, INC) x 6 (30) 

Row 6: (4 SC, INC) x 6 (36) 

Row 7: (5 SC, INC) x 6 (42) 

Row 8: (6 SC, INC) x 6 (48) 

Row 9: (7 SC, INC) x 6 (54) 

Row 10: (8 SC, INC) x 6 (60) 

Row 11: (9 SC, INC) x 6 (66) 

Rows 12-24: 66 SC 

Row 25: (10 SC, INC) x 6 (72) 

Row 26: (11 SC, INC) x 6 (78) 

Rows 27-31: 78 SC 

Row 32: (11 SC, DEC) x 6 (72) 

Row 33: (10 SC, DEC) x 6 (66) 

Row 34: (9 SC, DEC) x 6 (60) 

Row 35: (8 SC, DEC) x 6 (54) 

Row 36: (7 SC, DEC) x 6 (48) 

Row 37: (6 SC, DEC) x 6 (42) 

Row 38: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 (36) 

Row 39: (4 SC, DEC) x 6 (30) 

Row 40: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 (24) 

Row 41: (2 SC, DEC) x 6 (18) 

Attach hair to the last row. 

Hat 

Chain 80 and join in a circle. 

Row 1: Chain 3, 80 SC, slip stitch into the first chain. 

Rows 2-3: Chain 3, (2 SC; 2 DC in the same stitch, worked from the bottom) repeat to the end of the row. 

Row 4: Chain 3, (9 SC, INC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (88). 

Rows 5-7: Chain 3, 88 SC, slip stitch into the first chain. 

Row 8: Chain 3, (9 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (80). 

Row 9: Chain 3, (8 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (72). 

Row 10: Chain 3, (7 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (64). 

Row 11: Chain 3, (6 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (56). 

Row 12: Chain 3, (5 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (48). 

Row 13: Chain 3, (4 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (40). 

Row 14: Chain 3, (3 SC, DEC) x 8, slip stitch into the first chain (32). 

Row 15: 16 DEC (16). Finish crocheting. 

Scarf 

Chain 7. Turn the piece. Crochet 6 SC in the 2nd chain from the hook, turn the work. 

2-102. Chain 1. Crochet 6 SC in the back loop only of each of the 6 SC in the previous row, turn the work. Repeat for 101 more rows. 

The post Free Tonton Doll Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

In this pattern, you’ll find detailed instructions and helpful tips to guide you through every step of creating your very own ladybug doll. From crocheting the body and wings to adding the sweetest facial features, each element is carefully explained to ensure your finished creation is as adorable as can be. So, gather your yarn and hooks, and let your creativity take flight as you embark on this delightful crocheting adventure!

Skills needed for crocheting this toy: 

Ability to make single crochet stitches (sc), half double crochet stitches (hdc), and slip stitches (sl st). 

Ability to create an amigurumi magic ring. 

Ability to change colors. 

Patience – this is perhaps the most important skill =) 

Materials you’ll need: 

Crochet hook size 1.3 mm 

Toy stuffing (I use polyester fiberfill) 

Black and white sewing threads for eyes 

Buttons for decoration (I used 8 ladybug buttons on legs and 1 plain button) 

Yarn: 100% mercerized cotton, 200 m/50 g or 392 m/100 g. Brands like Kamtex, Semenovskaya Yarn Lily, Narcissus, or any other with similar yardage and weight will work. You can substitute this yarn with another, as long as the thickness for the body and dress remains the same. 

Yarn colors from Kamtex, 200 m/50 g, that I used: white, apricot for the body (beige), a bit of green for cords, and brown – mine is somewhat reddish-brown, unfortunately, I don’t remember the exact name of this color as the label is lost, but you can also use chocolate or dark chocolate color. 

Optional: Granulate for weighting the toy’s legs on row 6. 

Abbreviations: 

sc – single crochet 

hdc – half double crochet 

sl st – slip stitch 

ch – chain 

inc – increase, work 2 single crochets in one stitch 

dec – decrease, single crochet 2 stitches together 

(1 sc, inc)*6 – repeat what’s in the parentheses 6 times

PATTERN

Head: 

Begin with beige yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring. 

Row 2: inc*6 = 12 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 = 24 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 = 30 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 = 36 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 = 42 

Row 8: (6 sc, inc)*6 = 48 

Row 9: (7 sc, inc)*6 = 54 

Row 10: (8 sc, inc)*6 = 60 

Row 11-16: 60 sc (6 rows) 

Row 17: (8 sc, dec)*6 = 54 

Row 18: (7 sc, dec)*6 = 48 

Row 19: (6 sc, dec)*6 = 42 

Row 20: (5 sc, dec)*6 = 36 

Row 21: (4 sc, dec)*6 = 30 

Row 22: (3 sc, dec)*6 = 24 

Row 23: (2 sc, dec)*6 = 18 

Do not cut the yarn; we’ll continue with the neck.

Neck: 

Rows 24-27: 18 sc (4 rows) 

Stuff the piece firmly. 

Body: 

Row 28: (2 sc, inc)*6 = 24 

Row 29: (3 sc, inc)*6 = 30 

Rows 30-31: 30 sc (2 rows) 

Change to white yarn. 

You can change the color later, after row 38 – I did it to make it look like panties, but in the end, the body color showed through the holes in the dress, which I didn’t like. So, if you change to white now (or the color you’ll use for the dress), it will look neater. 

Rows 32-45: 30 sc (14 rows) 

Stuff the piece tightly; do not cut the yarn. We’ll move on to crocheting the legs. 

Legs: 

Work 15 sc, then join the 16th loop with the 1st using a sc. Each leg has exactly 14 loops. Without cutting the yarn, continue to crochet the left leg. 

Left Leg: 

Continue with white yarn. 

Rows 1-3: 14 sc (3 rows) 

Row 4: 14 sc + 3 sc with the same color 

Change to beige yarn. 

Rows 5-14: 14 sc (10 rows) 

Change to white yarn. 

Rows 15-18: 14 sc (4 rows) 

Stuff the leg firmly. 

Row 19: dec*7 = 7 

Cut the yarn, tighten the loops, thread the yarn through each of the 2 loops, secure, and hide the yarn tail inside the piece. 

Right Leg: 

Attach white yarn at the joining point of the legs and continue crocheting using the same pattern. In the 4th row, crochet 11 sc before changing to beige yarn. 

The color changes should always be at the back of the toy. 

Stuff the leg firmly, finish it, tighten the loops, and hide the yarn tail inside the piece. 

You can put granulate in the legs to weight the toy since the head with curls can be a bit heavy and may tip over. 

Arms: 

Crochet with beige yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring. 

Row 2: (1 sc, inc)*3 = 9 

Rows 3-6: 9 sc (4 rows) 

Row 7: (2 sc, dec)*2, 1 sc = 7 

Rows 8-18: 7 sc (11 rows) 

Fill the piece with stuffing about 1/3 full, fold it in half, crochet 3 sc, cut the yarn, secure, and hide the yarn tail inside the piece. When crocheting the second arm, leave a yarn tail to sew both arms to the body. 

Now, you can sew the arms to the body. 

Dress: 

Crochet with white yarn. 

Chain 27 stitches, starting in the 4th chain from the hook. 

Row 1: 1 sc, (hdc, 4 sc)*4, hdc, 2 sc = 30 

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 sc, hdc, (4 sc, hdc)*5, 2 sc = 36 (including the initial 2 chain stitches) 

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 sc, (1 ch, skip one stitch, 1 sc)*alternating to the end = 36 (including the initial 2 chain stitches). The pattern for this row is the same as for row 8, see below. 

Row 4: Ch 2, in each chain space from row 3 and each sc, crochet 1 sc = 36 (including the initial 2 chain stitches) 

Row 5: Crochet this row into the front loops of the stitches as follows: Ch 3, sl st into the next stitch. Put this “dress” onto the doll and join the beginning and end with a slip stitch. 

Row 6: Now we will divide our work into the back, front, and sleeves of the dress. Crochet 4 rows into the remaining back loops of the stitches: Ch 2, 5 sc, 4 ch, skip 6 stitches, 12 sc, 4 ch, skip 6 stitches, 6 sc, sl st. 

Our dress front is almost done, the arms should be inside the sleeves, the front should be in the front, and the “seam” should be at the back. The pattern for this row and what it should look like is shown in the photo below. 

Row 7: 32 sc 

Row 8: Ch 3, skip 1 stitch, then crochet as follows: (1 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 stitch) to the end of the row, finish with a slip stitch. You’ll have small loops made from 1 ch at the end of this row. The pattern for this row is shown in the photo below. 

Row 9: Make 1 slip stitch into each loop made from 1 ch, here also crochet: 3 ch + 1 hdc + 2 ch + 2 hdc, then crochet 1 hdc into the next loop. Continue alternating to the end of the row: 2 hdc + 2 ch + 2 hdc, then 1 hdc into the next loop. 

In rows 11 and onward, we add 1 hdc between our pattern, in this row we have 3 hdc between the dress pattern, in row 12 – 4 hdc, in row 13 – 5 hdc. Continue this way until you have 9 hdc between the pattern. If you want the dress a bit longer, continue until you have 10 hdc between the pattern. If you want it shorter, finish a few rows earlier. Cut the yarn and secure it. 

If you don’t want the dress to be too puffy, adjust the number of increases. For example, after row 12, do increases every other row. It’s up to your preference. 

Dress Decoration: 

Crochet a chain of 40 stitches with green yarn and thread it through the holes of the third row. Secure it and sew on a button. I used a small red button with two holes. 

Crochet a chain of 25 cm with chain stitches and thread it between the stitches of the lower row of the dress. Secure the thread and cut it. Decorate the dress with buttons. I used ladybug buttons; you can choose any buttons you like. Create folds in the dress and secure them by stitching at the bottom. 

Hair: 

We will crochet with brown yarn. Start with a chain of 22 stitches, leaving a small yarn tail at the beginning of the chain for later attachment. 

Crochet in each stitch starting from the second, crochet 3 sc, then crochet 1 sc in the last 2 stitches. Cut the yarn, leaving a small tail of about 5-6 cm for easy tying. 

You need to make 50 such curls. If you run out, make more. The pattern is shown below. 

Start sewing the hair on the 11th row: thread one end of the yarn through 2 stitches, tie knots, and hide the yarn tails inside the head. 

Here’s what the first row looks like: 

Skip 3 rows and start making the second row. Form all other rows in the same way, making sure the head doesn’t show through the curls. I used 13 curls in the second row. 

Finish the hairstyle, embroider the eyes, and mouth. 

The post Free Ladybug Doll Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.