This charming bunny pattern is designed to melt hearts and spark joy with its adorable features and lovable demeanor. Whether you’re an experienced crocheter or just starting out, crafting your own amigurumi bunny is a rewarding and enjoyable experience that promises to bring smiles to both maker and recipient alike.

Materials and tools:

1. Yarn “Children’s novelty” 50g – 200m white for the body and colored yarn for clothes, too, “Children’s novelty”

2. Eyes or two half beads 10mm

3. Hook 1.5

4. Holofiber or any other filler

5. Knitting needles number 2 for knitting clothes

6. To strengthen the neck, we need some kind of object so that it can be inserted into the body through the head.

To do this, you can use the body from a simple ballpoint pen or stick, which eat Chinese food or wire in isolation, folding it in two and insulate the ends with a plaster or electrical tape. I use a ballpoint pen after pulling the rod out of it.

CONVENTIONS

Hook:

ch – air loop

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

inc – increase (two columns are tied in one loop)

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

dec – decrease (two columns are connected together)

sl-st– connecting column

Lush column – associate 3 incomplete columns with

double crochet in one loop of the base and knit

loops together (see pictures).

Spokes:

l – front loop

cr – edge loop

out – back loop

0 – yarn (just throw a yarn over the knitting needle, and in the next row knit this yarn with a crossed loop so that there is no hole, if you need to have a hole, then knit just like a face loop)

2vm – knit 2 loops together front

lg – the front surface in the front row we knit the front, in the wrong row we knit the back, if we knit round, then we knit all the loops front

 ——-

Knit tight enough so that there are no gaps between the columns.

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

HANDLES (2 parts)

– 6 sc into magic ring

– 6inc = 12

– 12 sc

– (1sc, inc) x6 = 18

– 18 sc – 3 rows

– 1sc, in the next loop make a magnificent column (finger), 1ch (in the next row we don’t count this ch to skip it), 16sc = 18

– 18sc

– (1sc, dec) x6 = 12

– 12sc

– (1sc, inc) x6 = 18

– 18sc – 22 rows

– 1sc (dec, 3sc) x3, dec = 14

– 14sc

– fill the handle with filler, but not tight, leave the upper part of the hand empty. Fold the part and join sc (6)

– Tie the second handle as well, cut the thread, fasten and hide.

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

BODY

 We start to knit from the bottom, the marker runs in the middle of the back

– 6sc into magic ring

– 6inc = 12

– (1sc, inc) x6 = 18

– (2sc, inc) x6 = 24

– (3sc, inc) x6 = 30

– (4sc, inc) x6 = 36

– (5sc, inc) x6 = 42

– (6sc, inc) x6 = 48

– (7sc, inc) x6 = 54

– (8sc, inc) x6 = 60

– (9sc, inc) x6 = 66

– 66 sc

– (10sc, inc) x6 = 72

– 72sc – 6 rows – check the marker, it should

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

go in the middle of the back, if you have something wrong, then move it to the middle, knitting one or more columns of displacement

– (2sc, dec) x3, 48sc, (dec, 2sc) x3 = 66

– 66 sc

– (9sc, dec) x6 = 60

– 60 sc – 6 rows

– (8sc, dec) x6 = 54

– 54 sc

– 17sc (dec, 2sc) x6, 13sc = 48

– 48sc – 6 rows

– knit the handle, the marker is strictly in the middle of the back, if you have something wrong, then shift it by knitting the right number of columns.

– 8sc, 6sc with the handle, 19sc, 6sc with the handle, 9sc = 48

– 48 sc

– (6sc, dec) x6 = 42

– (5sc, dec) x6 = 36

– (4sc, dec) x6 = 30 – fill the body with filler

– (3sc, dec) x6 = 24

– (2sc, dec) x6 = 18

– 18 sc – 3 rows – do not cut the thread continue knitting

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

HEAD

– 18inc = 36

– 36sc

– (5sc, inc) x6 = 42

– (6sc, inc) x6 = 48 – insert the neck holder

– (7sc, inc) x6 = 54

– (8sc, inc) x6 = 60

– (9sc, inc) x6 = 66 – align the marker exactly in the middle

– 15sc, (inc, 2sc) x12, 15sc = 78

– 78 sc – 7 rows – follow the marker, it should be strictly in the middle of the back of the head

– 3sc, inc (6sc, inc) x2, 10sc, (dec, 2sc) x5, dec, 10sc (inc, 6sc) x2inc, 3sc = 78

– 78 sc – 2 rows

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

– mark 36 and 45 column with colored thread these are labels for the eyes

– 78 sc – 10 rows – place the neck holder and add filler to the shoulders and neck, form the body using a thick needle, pulling the filler into the right places

– (11sc, dec) x6 = 72

– (10sc, dec) x6 = 66

– (9sc, dec) x6 = 60

– (8sc, dec) x6 = 54

– (7sc, dec) x6 = 48

– (6sc, dec) x6 = 42

– (5sc, dec) x6 = 36

– (4sc, dec) x6 = 30

– (3sc, dec) x6 = 24

– (2sc, dec) x6 = 18 – fill the head with filler, tightly, form the head. With a thick needle, pull the filler to the cheeks, to the bottom of the head, etc.

– (1sc, dec) x6 = 12 – add filler

– 6dec = 6 – close the hole, cut the thread, fasten and hide.

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

Nose

– Put on the knitting needles 4 loops – we knit without edge on two knitting needles, we knit the crochets with a crossed loop

– (1l, 0) x3, 1l = 7

– 7l – 5 rows of lg

– cut the thread, leaving a small tip. Thread this tip into the needle and collect the loops on a thread. Then again pull the thread through all the loops in the opposite direction, pull tightly and cut the thread. The ends are spouted.

– We make a face:

First make eye braces. To do this, place marks at the base of the neck as shown in the photo.

Insert the needle with the thread into this mark and then into the opposite mark of the eye, now retreat one column to the side of the ear and return to the lower mark, retreating 1 column to the side. All

do the same with the other eye symmetrically.

 Pull the threads. Adjust the weights. Tie in two knots.

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

Bring the ends to the center of the head – to the hole. Glue the eyes with half beads into the deepened holes, between the eyes there are 8 columns, sew the nose, see the photo.

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

EARS

– 6 sc into magic ring leave a small end to form the lower part of the ear

– 6inc = 12

– 12sc

– (1sc, inc) = 18

– 18sc

– (2sc, inc) = 24

– 24sc

– (3sc, inc) = 30

– 30sc

– (4sc, inc) = 36

– 36sc – 8 rows

– (4sc, dec) x6 = 30

– 30sc – 2 rows

– (3sc, dec) = 24

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

– 24sc – 3 rows

– fold the ears and connect the edges 11sc

– put the thread we left into the needle and connect the edges of the first row

– sew in place, embroider cilia and eyebrows

LEGS (2 parts)

We start to knit from the sole. The sole can be tied in any color of your choice. We do not move the marker, the description takes into account the offset

– 8 ch and start knitting from the second loop from the hook

– 6sc, 5sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain 5sc, 3sc in the last loop

– inc, 5sc, 5inc, 5sc, 3inc = 28

– 7sc (inc, 1sc) x5, 9sc, inc, 1sc = 34

– 10sc, inc, (3sc, inc) x2, 15sc = 37

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

– 37sc behind the back wall of the loop

– 37 sc – 3 rows

– 9sc, 9dec, 10sc = 28

– 28sc

– 8sc, 5dec, 10sc = 23

– (2sc, dec) x5, 3sc = 18

– 18 sc

– 1sc, inc (3sc, inc) x4 = 23

– 23 sc – 5 rows

– inc, 1sc, inc, 20sc = 25

– 25sc – 4 rows

– 14sc, inc, 10sc = 26

– 26sc – 10 rows

– (2sc, dec) x6, 2sc – fill the leg with filler, tight

– (1sc, dec) x6, 2sc

– 7dec

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

Sew the legs to the body as shown in the picture, the buttons can not be used, although it is more reliable with buttons

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

OVERALLS

– To get 36 stitches with a finishing color thread.

– 2 rows wrong side (garter stitch)

– change the thread to the main

– 3l, 3l, 0, 2l, 0, 4l, 0, 2l, 0, 8l, 0, 2l, 0, 4l, 0, 2l, 0.3l, 3l = 44

– kr, everything is out

– cr, 2l, 4l, 0, 2l, 0, 6l, 0, 2l, 0, 10l, 0, 2l, 0, 6l, 0, 2l, 0, 4l, 3l = 52

– kr, 2vm.izn, 0, (there will be a buttonhole for the button) remaining out = 52

– cr, 2l, 5l, 0, 2l, 0, 8l, 0, 2l, 0, 2l, 0, 2l, 2l, 0, 2l, 2m, 0, 2l, 0, 2l, 0,8l, 2l , 0, 5l, 3 life = 61

– kr, everything is out of date (no need to cross the yarn over)

– cr, 2 life, 6 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 10 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 4 l, 0, 2 l, 3 l, 2 l, 0.4 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 10 l, 0.2 l, 0, 6 l , 3life, = 69

– kr, everything is out

– cr, 2 life, 7l, 0, 2l, 0, 12l, 0, 2l, 0, 6l, 0, 2l, 1l, 2v, 0,6l, 0, 2l, 0, 12l, 0,2l, 0, 7l , 3 life = 77

– kr, everything is out

– cr, 2l, 8l, 0, 2l, 0, 14l, 0, 2l, 0, 8l, 0, 3m, 0, 8l, 0.2l, 0, 14l, 0, 2l, 0.8l, 3l = 85

– kr, everything is out

– cr, 2 life, 9 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 16 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 6 l, 0, 2 l, 5 l, 2 l, 0.6 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 16 l, 0,2 l, 0, 9 l , 3life, = 93

– cr, 2vm.izn, 0, (loop) the rest are all out

– cr, 2 life, 10 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 18 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 8 l, 0, 2 l, 3 l, 2 l, 0, 8 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 18 l, 0, 2 l, 0, 10 l , 3life, = 101

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

– kr, everything is out

– cr, 2 life, 11l, 0, 2l, 0, 20l, 0, 2l, 0, 10l, 0, 2l, 1l, 2v, 0, 10l, 0, 2l, 0,20l, 0, 2l, 0, 11l , 3life, = 109

– kr, everything is out

– cr, 2 life, 13l, remove the next 24 loops, 13l, 0, 3vm, 0, 13l, remove the next 24 loops, 13l, 3

– kr, everything is out

– cr, 2viz, 55l, 3viz = 61

– kr, everything is out

– cr, 2viz, 55l, 3viz = 61

– kr, everything is out

– kr, everything is out

– 5 rows lg

– close the first 3 loops, other persons

– close the first 4 loops, the rest out = 80

– go to circular knitting.

– Distribute the loops on 4 knitting needles (20 each), at the same time knitting them with the front ones. Next, we knit changing the color of the thread as desired, I did 4 rows in each color (see photo)

– 16 rows lg

– 1l, 0, 38l, 0, 2l, 0, 38l, 0, 1l = 84

– 1 row lg

– 1l, 0, 40l, 0, 2l, 0, 40l, 0, 1l = 88

– 1 row lg

– 1l, 0, 42l, 0, 2l, 0, 42l, 0, 1l = 92

– 1 row lg

LEFT Trouser

Workshop on crochet rabbit knitting by Irina Kirillova

– we knit only half the loops (46), distributing them into 4 knitting needles (11, 12, 12, 11) or three, as you prefer while simultaneously knitting with facial loops

– 1 row lg

– 2vm left, 42l, 2vm right = 44

– 1 row lg

– 2vm left, 40l, 2vm right = 42

– 1 row lg

– 2 in left, 38 l, 2 in right = 40

– 13 rows lg

– (6l, 2vm) x5 = 35

– 6 rows of garter stitch (1 row out of stock, 1 row of facial, etc.)

– close with facial loops in the last front row

– tie the second leg in the same way

SLEEVE

– change the loop of the sleeve into 3 knitting needles of 8 sts = 24

– knit evenly, changing color through 2 rows

– 18 rows lg

– finish knitting with 6 rows of scarf knitting, as on panties

– close the loop.

– Tie the second sleeve in the same way.

It remains to sew buttons and the jumpsuit is ready.

Workshop on crocheting a hare from Irina Kirillova Here we have such a hare. I wish you a pleasant knitting and light loops!

The post Amigurumi Cute Bunny Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

CH- air loop

MR-ring amigurumi

SL-ST-connecting post

SC single crochet

Decrease DEC (2 SC together)

İNC – increase ( 2 SC from one loop)

FLO bias loop

BLO – hinge back walls

Tail

(One piece, knitted in a spiral, start in white)

6SC to MR

1: (SC, İNC)x3=(9)

2-7: 9SC, change to tan

8-18:9SC

Fill the tip of the tail quite a bit, do not stuff the rest!

Fold the part in half and knit in pairs with 4 SC

Upper paws

(2 identical parts on a thread fastening, knit in a spiral, start in white)

6SC to MR

1:6NC=(12)

2: (SC, İNC)x6=(18)

3-5:18SC

6: (SC, DEC) x6 = (12) change the thread to red

7-9 : 12 sc. Stuff your palm so that it remains flat

10: 10SC, DEC=(11)

11-13:11 SC

14: 9SC, DEC=(10)

15-16: 10SC. Add just a little filling to the hand

17: 5DEC. Fasten the thread, cut and hide the end inside

With a brown or black thread, embroider fingers on the palm and toned

watercolor pencil

Lower paws

Start white. 6 SC to MR

1:6NC=(12)

2: (SC, İNC)x6=(18)

3: (2SC, İNC)x6=(24)

4: (3SC, İNC)x6=(30)

5-6: 30 SC

7: 6SC, (SC, DEC)x6, 6SC =(24)

8: 6SC, 6 DEC, 6 SC \u003d (18) Stuff the foot, then stuff as you knit.

9: (SC, DEC)x6=(12)

10-11:12 SC. Without knitting the last loop to the end, change the thread to red,

12:12 SC per BLO

13-16: 12SC

17: (3SC, İNC)x3=(15)

18-19: 15 SC

Cut the thread on the left foot, knit another 5 SC on the right foot and continue to knit it further on the body

Body

1: From the right paw 3 CH, 15 SC along the left paw, 3 SC along the chain, 15 SC along the right paw, 3 SC along the second side of the chain = (36) put a marker

2: 4 NC, 11 SC, 3 NC, 11 SC, 4 NC, SC, NC. SC=(48)

3-10: (8 rows) 48SC at the end of the 10th row, work 1 more FLO

11: (SC, DEC)x4, 5SC, DEC, 6SC, DEC, 5SC, (DEC, SC)x4, 2DEC = (36) + 1 FLO

12: 32SC, 4 SC in pairs with tail loops

13-14:36 ​​SC. Hit your ass.

15: (5SC, DEC, 5SC)x3=(33)

16:33SC

17: (9SC, DEC)x3=(30)

18:30 SC

19: (4SC, DEC, 4SC)x3=(27)

20:27SC

21: (7SC, DEC)x3=(24)

22: (2SC, DEC)x6=(18)

23-24: 18SC. Add filler to the body Without cutting the thread, continue to knit the head

Head

1: 18 İNC=(36)

2:36SC

3: (SC, İNC)x18=(54)

4: (8SC, İNC)=(60)

5-12: 60 SC

13: (4SC, DEC, 4SC)x6=(54)

14:54SC

15: (7SC, DEC)x6=(48)

16:48SC

17: (3SC, DEC, 3SC)x6=(42)

18:42SC

19: (5SC, DEC) x6 = (36). Stuff your head. Next, we stuff as we knit

20:36SC

21: (2SC, DEC, 2SC)x6=(30)

22:30SC

23: (3SC, DEC)x6=(24)

24: (2SC, DEC)x6=(18)

25:9DEC. Fasten the thread, cut it off and pull the hole with a needle

Muzzle (knit white)

1:6SC to MR

2:6NC=(12)

3: (SC, İNC)x6=(18)

4: (2SC, İNC)x6=(24)

5-7: 24 SC. Fasten the thread, cut, leave the end for sewing to the head.

Belly pad.

1:6SC to MR

2:6NC=(12)

3: (SC, İNC)x6=(18)

4: (2SC, İNC)x6=(24)

5: (3SC, İNC)x6=(30)

Ears (2 parts)

1:6SC to MR

2:6NC=(12)

3: (SC, İNC)x6=(18)

4: (2SC, İNC)x6=(24)

5: (3SC, İNC)x6=(30)

6-7: 30SC.

8: (3SC, DEC) x6=(24). Fasten the thread to cut and leave the end for sewing to the head.

The post Tiger Cute Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Yarn:

– Yarn Art Jeans: 01(white), 07(beige), 26(red), 52(green), 40(brown) for the insole, 53(black), 86(milky) for the hair.

– Yarn Art Velor white.

– a little yellow or gold yarn for embroidering the buckle.

– a thin contrast thread – a marker. Be sure to use a marker!

– a hook of the right size for your yarn, I have it No. 2;

– filler (holofiber, sintepukh);

– glass eyes 10mm;

– Glue Moment Crystal;

– white felt for the white of the eyes;

– a piece of plastic for insoles, I use old discount cards;

– a needle for stitching parts;

– scissors;

– pastels for toning cheeks.

If desired, you can use a weighting agent, I use aquarium soil.

The growth of the finished toy, with the specified materials 25cm.

Legend:

sc – single crochet, knit for both walls of the loop, unless otherwise indicated in the description;

ch – air loop;

sl-st – connecting column, do not knit it too tight;

Dec – decrease (2sc together for the front walls)

İnc – increase (2sc from one loop)

HDC – half double crochet

DC – double crochet

* – after this asterisk, the number of repetitions of knitted loops is indicated

General recommendations for knitting toys:

– I recommend that you first carefully read the description of the toy, then start knitting.

– Choose a hook according to your density! There should be no distance between the columns, the filler should not shine through, but you don’t need to knit too tightly either, the fabric should turn out to be plastic, and not be wooden.

– Use a good filler to prevent bumps and bumps when filling the toy.

– All parts are knitted in a spiral, the lifting loop at the beginning of the row and the connecting loop at the end of the row are not used.

– All loops, except for the decrease loop, are knitted behind both walls of the loop. Knitting loops for the front or back wall is indicated in the description of the row.

– Please note that the connecting column is not knitted tight.

– Use a thin, contrasting marker thread to mark the beginning of the row. Before knitting the first loop of the row, throw it alternately: before knitting and after knitting.

– The toy is knitted face out, fig.1.

– The thread is changed as follows:

You knit the last sc not to the end, i.e. insert the hook behind both walls of the loop (when knitting a decrease, we insert the hook behind the two front walls), bring the thread out – there are two

loops, then take a thread of a different color and knit these loops with a new color.

– When making the head, enter and exit all the threads at the bottom of the head, in the place where the head will be sewn to the body, so that it is convenient to fasten and hide them.

Arms:

The right and left hand are knitted differently to hide the color transition. First we knit mittens. We start knitting in red. We fill only the palm.

Finger:

1. 6sc into magic ring – 6sc

2-4. 6sc

Fasten the thread, cut. Tie two fingers, for the right and left hand. We do not stuff our fingers.

Palm:

1.6sc

2.6inc – 12sc

3. (3sc, inc) *3 – 15sc

4-6. (3 rows) 15sc

Next, we attach a finger, the place of attachment for the right and left hands is different. When attaching the parts, we put them facing each other, we pick up the finger loops from the inside.

Right hand:

7. 3sc, 2sc with finger, 10sc – 15sc

8. 3sc, 4sc on the finger, 10sc – 17sc

9. 4sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc – 15sc

Left hand:

7. 10sc, 2sc with finger, 3sc – 15sc

8. 10sc, 4sc on the finger, 3sc – 17sc

9. 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 4sc – 15sc

Further, the hands are knitted in the same way.

10. (3sc, dec) *3 – 12sc, change the thread to white, fasten the red thread and cut off.

Fill your palm well. Knit the next row behind the back wall.

11. (2sc, dec)*3 – 9sc

12. 9sc in white.

Next, alternate white and green colors in 2 rows.

Knit an offset loop as needed so that the color transition does not shift or go to the side.

13-27. (15 rows) 9sc

Finish the hand with one row of white. Fasten the thread, cut.

Attach plush yarn to row 11 and work 12sc behind the front walls of row 11, holding the hand mitten down.

Legs:

We knit two identical legs.

We start by knitting the nose of the shoe in green:

1. 6sc into magic ring – 6sc

2.6sc

3. 5sc, inc – 7sc

4. 6sc, sc behind the back wall – 7sc

5. 6sc, inc behind the front wall of the previous (3rd) row – 8sc

6. 7sc, sc behind the back wall – 8sc

7. 7sc, inc to the front the wall of the previous (5th) row – 9sc

8. 8sc, sc behind the back wall – 9sc

9. 8sc, inc to the front wall of the previous row – 10sc

10. 9sc, sc behind the back wall – 10sc

11. 9sc, inc to the front wall of the previous row – 11sc

12. 10sc, sc behind the back wall – 11sc

13. 10sc, inc to the front wall of the previous row – 12sc

14. 9sc, inc, sc, inc – 14sc

15. 10sc, inc*4 – 18sc

16.18sc

Fasten the thread, cut.

Step back from the marker clockwise 1sc, put a marker, for the next 8sc the nose will join the insole, mark the 8th loop with a marker for convenience.

Insole, brown:

We dial 6ch, we start knitting from the second loop from the hook.

1. inc, 3sc, 4sc in the last loop, turn the chain, 3sc, inc – 14sc.

We put a marker.

2. inc*2, ​​3sc, inc*4, 3sc, inc*2 – 22sc

3. (sc, inc)*2, 3sc, inc*8, 3sc, (sc, inc)*2 – 34sc,

change the thread to green.

We circle the insole on the plastic, cut out two parts.

We knit the next row behind the back wall, attach the nose of the shoe, note that we knit the insole behind the back wall, and the nose behind both walls of the loop.

Attach the nose to the insole as shown in the photo, right sides to each other.

4. 13sc, 8sc with shoe toe, 13sc – 34sc

In the next row, when knitting a decrease, you need to hook the front wall of the loop knitted together with the nose on the hook to avoid the appearance of holes.

5. 12sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 12sc – 34sc

We knit the following decreases in the usual way.

6. 11sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 11sc – 32sc

7. 11sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 11sc – 30sc

We insert the insole, we stuff the nose well, then we stuff the leg tightly as we knit.

8. (3sc, dec) * 6 – 24sc

9. (2sc, dec) *6 – 18sc

We fix and cut the thread. The marker runs exactly down the middle of the back of the leg. If desired, weighting agents can be added to the legs. I am using aquarium soil.

For the right leg, we retreat 4sc clockwise from the marker, attach the white thread.

For the left leg, we retreat 4 sc counterclockwise from the marker, attach a white thread.

We align the marker as we knit, knitting an offset loop so that the color transition remains inside the leg and does not move.

Knit the next row behind the back wall

10. (sc, dec) * 6 – 12ch

In the next row we attach a red thread, in the 12th row we attach a green thread, then we change the color of the thread each row.

11-34. (24rows) 12sc

We finish knitting the leg in white so that the last loop is exactly on the side of the leg. We fix the threads, cut off.

Attach a plush thread to the 9th row and knit 18sc behind the front walls of the 9th row, keeping the leg of the feet down.

Body:

We stuff the body tightly as we knit.

From the right leg to the left, knit in red 6 ch

1. 12sc on the left leg, 6sc on the ch chain, 12sc on the right leg, 3sc on the chain, – 33sc, change the thread to green, put a marker. We did not work 3sc in the chain to the end of the row in order to place a marker in the middle of the back.

We start knitting the second row with 3sc along the chain.

2. (5sc, inc) * 6 – 42sc

We knit the next row in white, alternating colors each row up to the 9th row inclusive.

3. 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc) * 5, 3sc – 48sc

4-8. (5 rows) 48sc

9. 7sc, dec, (14sc, dec) *2, 7sc – 45sc

We knit the next two rows in white, then change the thread to green. Fasten the red thread and cut off. Next, alternate the colors in two rows. Tightly fill the junction of the legs and body, in this place there should not be a void.

10. (13sc, dec) *3 – 42sc

11.42sc

12. 6sc, dec, (12sc, dec) * 2, 6sc – 39sc

13-14. 39sc

15. (11sc, dec) * 3 – 36sc

16-17. 36sc

18. 5sc, dec, (10sc, dec) * 2, 5sc – 33sc

19-20. 33sc

21. (9sc, dec) * 3 – 30sc

Pay attention, in the next row we attach hands, the marker should be exactly in the middle of the back. Knit alignment loops if necessary. Try on your hands so that the color transition remains on the inside and the fingers look slightly inward. We pick up the loops of the hand from the inside, applying the parts with the right side to each other.

22. 7sc, 3sc with hand, 10sc, 3sc with hand, 7sc – 30sc

In the next row, holes may form at the junction of the arms, so we will knit the junction of the arms and body with an invisible decrease. To do this, we will knit the first loop of the arm together with the front wall of the loop of the body, knitted together with the arm in the previous row. See photo. In the same way, knit on the other side of the hand, picking up the loop of the previous row by the front wall.

23. 7sc, 6sc on the hand, 10sc, 6sc on the hand, 7sc – 36sc

24. 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) *5, 2sc – 30sc

25. (3sc, dec) *6 – 24sc

26. sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, sc – 18sc, change thread to body color

27. 18sc behind the back wall.

Fasten the thread, leave a long end for sewing, cut off. Stuff the body and neck very tightly, so that when sewing on the head does not collapse.

Shorts:

Shorts need to be knitted a little looser than usual, for this you can take a half-size larger hook or just knit not tight.

With a red thread, dial 45ch, close around. The shorts are knitted in half-columns with a crochet. We start the row with 2 ch, counting them as the first loop.

1-4. 45hdc

Next, separate the pants.

1. 22 hdc, 23hdc knit by connecting 23 and the first loop together, closing around.

2-3. 23hdc

The next row is knitted with plush thread.

4.23sc

Fasten the threads, cut off, hide the ends.

The second leg is knitted in the same way, but we knit the first loop from the junction of 23 and 1 loops of the first leg.

Next, we attach a black thread to the top and knit two rows of 45sc each, change the thread to red, knit 45hdc, fasten the threads, hide. We embroider loops with a red thread, a buckle with a yellow thread. We put shorts on the elf.

Pompoms for shoes:

From plush yarn, knit pompoms for shoes:

1. 6sc into magic ring

2.6sc

Fasten the thread, cut. Choose a place for the pom-pom: the tip of the nose of the shoe or the top of the shoe. Sew the pom-poms to the shoes with white yarn Yarn Art Jeans, dividing it in two.

Head:

We knit in flesh color.

If you use the eyes on a secure fastening, then insert them in the 16th row, stepping back from the marker about 21-22sc, the distance between the eyes is 6-8sc.

1. 6sc into magic ring – 6sc

2.6inc – 12sc

3. (sc, inc)*6 – 18sc

4. sc, inc, (2sc, inc) * 5, sc – 24sc

5. (3sc, inc)*6 – 30sc

6. 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc – 36sc

7. (5sc, inc)*6 – 42sc

8. 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc – 48sc

9-16. (8 rows) 48sc

17. 17sc, (inc, sc) *2, inc, 4sc, (inc, sc) *2, inc, 17sc – 54sc

18.54sc

19. 17sc, (inc, 2sc) *2, inc, 6sc, (inc, 2sc) *2, inc,

17sc – 60sc

20-22. (3 rows) 60sc

23. 18sc, (dec, 2sc)* 2, dec, 6sc, (dec, 2sc), dec, 16sc

24.54sc

25. (7sc, dec)*6 – 48sc

26. 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec)*5, 3sc – 42sc

27. (5sc, dec)*6 – 36sc

28. 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc – 30sc

29. (3sc, dec)*6 – 24sc

30. sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, sc – 18sc

Fasten the thread, cut. Stuff your head tightly.

Nose:

We knit in flesh color.

1. 6sc into magic ring – 6sc

2. (inc, sc) * 3 – 9sc

3.9sc

4. (sc, dec) * 3 – 6sc

Fasten the thread, leave a long end for sewing, cut off. Put some filler in the nose.

Between the increments of 17 and 19 rows is the middle of the face, we will be guided by it in the further design of the head.

In order to make it easier to find the place for sewing on the nose, turn the head over, mark two loops with pins, between the 18th and 20th rows of the head – in the 19th row with increments, in the middle, retreating 2 loops to the center from the increments. The dots in the photo indicate the increments of the series. Sew on the nose. Bring the thread out at the bottom of the head.

Next, we will make eye tightening and smiles.

First, let’s put labels for the eyes. For convenience, we turn our head over again, with pins we select a loop between the first increments of the 17th row from the middle of the face. The distance between the pins is 6 loops.

Now we will make marks for a smile, to do this, turn your head to a normal position, step back 7 rows from the eye mark, focusing on the sewn nose, step back 4 loops from the middle of the face and highlight the next, 5th loop with pins.

Thread the needle with flesh-colored thread or dental floss. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head, into the hole, withdraw at point 1, enter at point 2, withdraw at point 3, pull the thread, insert the needle at point 4, then pull the thread again, a cheek should form.

Repeat tightening two times. Repeat the tightening with the second eye.

Next, embroider a smile. To do this, insert the red thread into the needle. Insert the needle into the hole from the bottom of the head, bring the needle out in the lower tightening on the left, insert the thread into the tightening on the right, pull the thread slightly, bring the needle out approximately in the middle of the smile two or three rows below the tightening, grab the thread and insert the needle into the same hole, tighten the thread and form a smile.

Glue on the eyes. We take a glass eye, draw the white of the eye on a piece of paper, the way we like it, you can make a round highlight or more anatomical, choose to your taste.

I draw a slightly elongated shape. We cut out our blank from paper and cut out two highlights from felt. On the Moment Crystal glue, glue the glare in the place of the eyes, wait for it to dry, glue the eye itself, now we are waiting for the eye to dry completely.

After the eyes are completely dry, we embroider the contour of the eye from above with a black thread. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head, bring it out at point 1 and enter it at point 2, while slightly pulling the thread, if the thread does not lie, it can be slightly glued using a toothpick and a very small amount of Moment Crystal glue.

Ears:

We knit two identical parts in flesh color.

1. 4sc into magic ring

2. (sc, inc) * 2 – 6sc

3. (2sc, inc)*2 – 8sc

4. (3sc, inc)*2 – 10sc

5. (4sc, inc)*2 – 12sc

6. (5sc, inc)*2 – 14sc

7-8. 14sc

9. (5sc, dec)*2 – 12sc

10.6dec

Leave a long end for sewing, secure the thread, cut off. Pull off the hole from the remaining 6sc, sew behind the side of the ear to the head, stepping back from the eyes about 7-8sc, between 15 and 20 rows.

Hair:

With the color of the hair we knit the part behind the back wall.

1. 6sc into magic ring – 6sc

2.6inc – 12sc

3. (sc, inc)*6 – 18sc

4. sc, inc, (2sc, inc) * 5, sc – 24sc

5. (3sc, inc)*6 – 30sc

6. 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc – 36sc

7. (5sc, inc)*6 – 42sc

8. 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc – 48sc

9-11. (3 rows) 48sc

We knit one sl-st, then turn the part over and knit along the resulting spiral of the front loops:

7ch, 2sl-st * repeat until the end of the spiral.

Got short curls. Try on a wig, fix with pins and sew to head.

Cap:

We start knitting with plush yarn:

1. 6sc into magic ring

2.6inc 12sc

3. (sc, inc) * 6 – 18sc

4.18sc

5. (sc, dec) – 12sc

Put filler.

6.6dec-6sc

Attach a green thread, knit 6sc, then

we knit with double crochets, we also knit increments from

double crochets. We start the row with 2 or 3ch, counting ch as the first loop.

1. (2dc inc)*2 – 8dc

2.8dc

3. (3dc, inc)*2 – 10dc

4.10dc

5. (4dc, inc)*2 – 12dc

6.12dc

7. (5dc, inc)*2 – 14dc

8. (6dc, inc)*2 – 16dc

9. (7dc, inc)*2 – 18dc

10. (8dc, inc)*2 – 20dc

11. (9dc, inc)*2 – 22dc

12. (10dc, inc)*2 – 24dc

13. (11dc, inc)*2 – 26dc

14. (12dc, inc)*2 – 28dc

15. (13dc, inc)*2 – 30dc

16. (14dc, inc)*2 – 32dc

17. (15dc, inc)*2 – 34dc

18. (16dc, inc)*2 – 36dc

19. (17dc, inc)*2 – 38dc

20. (18dc, inc)*2 – 40dc

21. (19dc, inc)*2 – 42dc

22. (20dc, inc)*2 – 44dc

23. (21dc, inc)*2 – 46dc

24. (22dc, inc)*2 – 48dc

25. (23dc, inc)*2 – 50dc

26. (24dc, inc)*2 – 52dc

27. (25dc, inc)*2 – 54dc

28. (26dc, inc)*2 – 56dc

29. (27dc, inc)*2 – 58dc

30-32. (3 rows) 58dc

Fasten the thread, cut. Next, knit with plush thread.

33-34. 58sc

Fasten the thread, cut. Hide the ends.

Sew the head to the body. Dry or oil pastels

using a hard brush to make a light blush on the elf.

In the absence of pastels, you can use regular blush.

Addition to the description of the elf Noel.

Elf Noemi knits according to the description of Elf Noel, the differences are minimal.

Wig:

The wig turns out to be heavy, so the head will fall over, I recommend making an elf using a frame or simply inserting a strengthener into the body-head when sewing.

You can use a pen body without a stem, thick wire, sushi sticks, etc. I recommend wrapping the stiffener with a woven patch so that it does not come out of the doll.

We knit every second row of the wig behind the back wall.

1. 6sc into magic ring

2. 6 inc behind the back wall – 12sc

3. (sc, inc)*6 – 18sc

4. behind the back wall sc, inc, (2sc, inc) * 5, sc – 24sc

5. (3sc, inc) *6 – 30sc

6. behind the back wall 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*6, 2sc – 36sc

7. (5sc, inc)*6 – 42sc

8. behind the back wall 4sc, inc, (6sc, inc) * 5, 4sc – 48sc

9.48sc.

Next, we knit a chain of 50ch into each loop of the 9th row, we knit connecting posts along it, we get a light curl, we make 8 curls short: 6-8 ch each, this will be a bang. There are 48 curls in total.

Next, we knit curls only in the 6th row, knit 52 ch into each loop, knit connecting posts into the ch chain, while knitting the connecting post into the second loop of the chain, counting from the base of the wig, grab the front wall of the 8th row. Thus, the curls will lie on the head. There are 36 curls in total.

Next, we knit curls of the 2nd row from 54ch, capturing the front walls of the 4th row when knitting the second ch. Only 6 curls.

Dress.

We knit the handles in plain colors after the mittens (green). We enter the main color of the dress (green) in the 10th row of the body, we knit the 11th row of the body behind the back wall, then we knit the body according to the description, but in one color.

For the 11th row of the body, attach the thread and knit the skirt dc with the lifting loops at the beginning of the row, count the lifting loop as the first loop of the row:

1. 2dc in one loop, 3dc in one loop, alternate to the end of the row – 105dc

2-5 (4 rows) 105 dc, change to plush.

6.105 sc

If desired, embroider snowflakes on the skirt, decorate with beads.

Cape:

Cast on 22 stitches in red.

1. 5dc, (3dc in one loop)*2.8dc, (3dc in one loop)*2.5dc

2. 6dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 2dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 10dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 2dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 6dc

3. 7dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 4dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 12dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 4dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 7dc

4. 8dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 6dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 14dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 6dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 8dc

5. 9dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 8dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 16dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 8dc, (3dc single stitch)*2, 9dc

6. 10dc, (3dc single loop)*2, 10dc, (3dc single loop)*2, 18dc, (3dc single loop)*2, 10dc, (3dc single loop)*2, 10dc

Tie around the cape with plush yarn, make two pompoms from the ball in 6sc into magic ring, pull off the ball and tie the strings.

Cap:

The width of the cap will have to be increased due to the hairstyle, so knit the increments in the cap further, according to the same principle, while trying on the cap on the head. Approximately 3-4 more rows of increases, and then according to the description of the cap.

The post Amigurumi Elf Noel Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

HEAD

1) 6sc

2) 6 INC= 12 sc

3) (SC, INC) 6 = 18 sc

4) (2 sc, INC) 6 = 24 sc

5) 3 sc INC) 6= 30 sc

6) (4 sc, INC) 6 = 36 sc

7) (5 sc INC) 6 = 42 sc

8) (6 sc, INC) 6 = 48 sc

9) 48 sc

10) 48 sc

11) 48 sc

12) 48 sc

13) 48 sc

14) 48 sc

15) 12sc, inc, 22 sc, inc, 12 sc = 50 sc

16) 12sc, INC, SC, INC, 21sc, INC, SC, INC, 11 sc = 54 sc

17) 54sc

18) 54sc

19) 54sc

20) 54 sc

21) 12sc, dec, sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, sc, dec, 10 sc = 50 sc

22) 12sc, dec, 23 sc, dec, 11 sc = 48 sc

23) 6sc, dec = 42 sc

24) 42 sc

25) 5sc, dec = 36sc

26) 4sc, dec = 30 sc

27) 3sc, dec = 24 sc

28) 2sc,dec = 18sc

29) SC, dec = 12 sc

EAR (x2)

1) 6 sc

2) 6 INCH = 12 sc

3) (SC, INC) 6 = 18 sc

4) (2 sc INC) 6 = 24 sc

5) 24 sc

6) 24 sc

7) 24 sc

8) 24 sc

9) 24 sc

Combine the upper side with 6 chains, sl-st to the top, repeat the process 4 times.

Body

1) 6sc

2) 6inc = 12 sc

3) (SC, INC) 6= 18 sc

4)(2sc, INC)6 = 24 sc

5) (3 SC, INC) 6 = 30 sc

6) (4sc, inc) 6 = 36 sc

7) (5 sc, inc) 6 = 42 sc

8) (6sc, inc) 6 = 48 sc

9) (7sc, inc) 6 = 54 sc

10) 54 sc

11)54 sc

12) 54 sc

13) 54 sc

14) 54 sc

15) 54sc

16) 54sc

17) 10sc, dec, (4sc,dec) 3.24 sc = 50sc

18)50sc

19) 10sc, dec, (3sc,dec)3, 23 sc = 46sc

20) 46 sc

21) 10sc,dec, (2sc,dec) 3, 22 sc = 42 sc

22) 42 sc

23) 42 sc

24) 42 sc

25) (5sc ,dec)6= 36sc

26)36sc

27) 4sc,dec = 30sc

28) 3sc, dec = 24 sc

29) 2sc,dec = 18 sc

30) sc, dec = 12 sc

31) 12 sc

32) 12 sc

33) 12 sc

Arm

1) 6sc

2) 6inc = 12 sc

3) (SC, inc) 6= 18sc

4) 18sc

5) 18sc

6) 18 sc

change color

7) (4sc,dec).3 = 15sc

8) Blo 15 sc

9) 15 sc

10) 15sc

11) 15 sc Change color

12) (3sc,dec).3 = 12 sc (change color)

13) 12sc

14) Blo knit 12sc

15) 12sc

16) 12 sc

17) change color.

18-20)12sc

21) 12sc

Join with crochet and leave long Thread for sewing.

Ruffles on sleeves

Pass the thread of the same color where the blo is. 2sc into each loop, knit the whole row like this, finish the first row with sl-st. In the second row, 2sc in each loop, continue until the end of the row. Sl-st and finish.

There are 2 frills for each sleeve. Repeat the above process in the parts we knit as Blo.

Leg

1) Pull 6 chains

2) 4 sc from the 2nd chain, make 3 sc into the next loop, cross over to the other side of the chain 3 sc, 1 inc = 12 sc

3) inc, 3sc, INC, INC, INC, 3sc, INC, INC, = 18sc

4) SC, inc, 3sc, (sc, inc). 3, 3sc, (sc, inc). 2 = 24 sc

5) 2sc, INC, 5sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2sc, INC, 5sc, inc, 2sc, INC, = 30sc

6) 30 sc

7) 30 sc

8) 30 sc

9) 7sc, 6 dec, 11sc = 24 sc

10) 7sc, 3inc, 11sc = 21 sc

11) 8sc, dec, 11sc = 20 sc

12) 20 sc

13) 20 sc Change color

14) 20 sc

15) 20sc change color

21) 20sc

22) (3sc, dec). 4 = 16sc

23) 16sc

24) 16sc

25) 16sc

26) 2sc, dec = 12 sc

27) 12sc

28) SC, dec = 8sc

29) Gather 3 dec stitches and finish. Gather the remaining loops and finish

Make the legs with the movable joint method with buttons.

Cowl

1) 28 chains, join the two chains with loop sl-st.

2) one sc in each loop = 28 sc

3)( 5sc,dec) 4 = 24

4) 24sc

5) 24 sc

6) (4sc, dec) =20 sc

7) 20 sc

8) 20 sc

9) (3 sc, dec) = 16sc

10) 16sc

11) 16sc

12) 16sc

13) (2sc, dec) =12 sc

14) 12 sc

15) SC, dec= 6

16) 6 dec

And gather the loops and finish.

You can also make the pompom part of the hood with different pompom shapes.

collar

1) 29 chains

2) skip first chain 1 sc from second chain, increase 1 = 42 sc

3) 2dc in each loop = 84 dc in total.

4) finish with 1 sc,1 inc (sc, inc) = 126 sl-st in the last row.

Put the collar around the neck, both ends upright.

The post Amigurumi Clown Bear Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Body:

Crocheted from bottom to top of body

With Color A:

1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

2. Increase in each st around= 12

3. (sc, inc) x 6= 18

4. (2 sc, inc) x 6= 24

5. (3 sc, inc) x 6= 30

6. (4 sc, inc) x 6= 36

7. (5 sc, inc) x 6= 42

8. BLO (6 sc, inc) x 6= 48

9. (7 sc, inc) x 6= 54

10. (8 sc, inc) x 6= 60

11. (9 sc, inc) x 6= 66

12-15. sc in each st around

16. (20 sc, dec) x 3= 63

17. sc in each st around

18. (19 sc, dec) x 3= 60

19. (18 sc, dec) x 3= 57

20. sc in each st around

21. (17 sc, dec) x 3= 54

22. (16 sc, dec) x 3= 51

*cut a cardboard circle approximately 3 ½ inches diameter around, insert in the bottom of the

body if you want the bottom to stay flatter*

23. sc in each st around

24. (15 sc, dec) x 3= 48

25. sc in each st around

26. (14 sc, dec) x 3= 45

27. sc in each st around

Start stuffing the body

28. (13 sc, dec) x 3= 42

29. sc in each st around

30. (12 sc, dec) x 3= 39

Body:

31. BLO sc in each st around

32. (11 sc, dec) x 3= 36

33. (10 sc, dec) x 3= 33

34. (9 sc, dec) x 3= 30

35. (3 sc, dec) x 6= 24

36. (2 sc, dec) x 6= 18

37. (sc, dec) x 6= 12

38. dec x 6= 6

F/O and sew the hole closed

Hat:

With Color B:

1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

2. (inc, 2 sc) x 2= 8

3. (inc, 3 sc) x 2= 10

4. sc in each st around

5. (inc, 4 sc) x 2= 12

6. (inc, 3 sc) x 3= 15

7. sc in each st around

8. (inc, 4 sc) x 3= 18

9. sc in each st around

I did not stuff my hat

10. (inc, 5 sc) x 3= 21

11. (inc, 6 sc) x 3= 24

12. sc in each st around

13. (inc, 7 sc) x 3= 27

14. (inc, 8 sc) x 3= 30

15. sc in each st around

16. (inc, 9 sc) x 3= 33

17. (inc, 10 sc) x 3= 36

18. sc in each st around

19. (inc, 11 sc) x 3= 39

20. (inc, 12 sc) x 3= 42

21. sc in each st around

22. (inc, 13 sc) x 3= 45

23. (inc, 14 sc) x 3= 48

24. sc in each st around

25. (inc, 15 sc) x 3= 51

26. (inc, 16 sc) x 3= 54

27. Sc in each st around

28. (inc, 17 sc) x 3= 57

29. (inc, 18 sc) x 3= 60

30. Sc in each st around

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Arms(Make 2):

Starting with color D:

Right Arm:

1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

2. Increase in each st around= 12

3. sc in each st around

4. 4 dc cluster, ch 1, 11 sc= 12

*See pg.15 for help with the cluster st*

5. (do not work off the ch 1 from the previous round)

(4 sc, dec) x 2= 10

Change to Color E:

6. FLO sc in each st around

Change to Color A:

7. BLO sc in each st around

8-10. sc in each st around

11. Dec, 8 sc= 9

12-14. sc in each st around

15. Dec, 7 sc= 8

16-17. sc in each st around

18. Work 3 sc, fold the arm in half and sc the opening closed. F/O and leave a long tail for sewing.

Starting with color D:

Left Arm:

1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

2. Increase in each st around= 12

3. sc in each st around

4. 11 sc, ch 1, 4 dc cluster= 12

*See pg.15 for help with the cluster st*

5. (do not work off the ch 1 from the previous round)

(4 sc, dec) x 2= 10

Change to Color E:

6. FLO sc in each st around

Change to Color A:

7. BLO sc in each st around

8-10. sc in each st around

11. Dec, 8 sc= 9

12-14. sc in each st around

15. Dec, 7 sc= 8

16-17. sc in each st around

18. Work 3 sc, fold the arm in half and sc the opening closed. F/O and leave a long tail for sewing.

Nose:

With Color C:

1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

2. Increase in each st around= 12

3. (sc, inc) x 6= 18

4. (2 sc, inc) x 6= 24

5. sc in each st around

6. (2 sc, dec) x 6= 18

7. (sc, dec) x 6= 12

8. dec x 6= 6

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

Legs(Make 2):

Starting with Color A:

1. Make 4 sc into a magic ring= 4

2. Inc, sc, dec= 4

3. inc x 2, 2 sc= 6

4. inc x 2, 4 sc= 8

5. inc x 2, 6 sc= 10

6. inc x 2, 8 sc= 12

7. sc in each st around

8. (sc, inc) x 6= 18

9. sc in each st around, work 6 sc more to move the stitch marker

10. Ch 1, work 16 sc

11. Ch 1, turn, work 16 sc

12. Ch 1, turn, 6 sc, dec x 2, 6 sc= 14

13. Ch 1, turn, dec, 3 sc, 4 hdc, 3 sc, dec= 12

14. Ch 1, turn, dec, 3 sc, 2 hdc, 3 sc, dec= 10

15. Ch 1, turn, dec, 6 sc, dec= 8

16. Ch 1, turn, dec, 4 sc, dec= 6

17. Ch 1, work 18 sc. Work the sc on the sides of the foot, across the front, and on the top

of the foot.

18. sc in each st around

Start stuffing the foot.

Legs Continued:

19. (4 sc, dec) x 3= 15

Change to Color E:

20. FLO sc in each st around

Change to Color D:

21. work in Back loops from round 20: sc in each st around

22-23. sc in each st around

24. Dec, 13 sc= 14

25-27. sc in each st around

28. (5 sc, dec) x 2= 12

Stop stuffing the legs

29-31. sc in each st around

32. (4 sc, dec) x 2= 10

33-35. sc in each st around

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing.

Beard(Optional):

With Color E:

1. Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

2. (sc, inc) x 3= 9

3. (2 sc, inc) x 3= 12

4. sc in each st around

Do not stuff the beard

5. (3 sc, inc) x 3= 15

6. (4 sc, inc) x 3= 18

7. sc in each st around

8. (5 sc, inc) x 3= 21

9. (6 sc, inc) x 3= 24

10. (7 sc, inc) x 3= 27

11-12. sc in each st around

13. (8 sc, inc) x 3= 30

14-16. sc in each st around

Fold the beard in half and sc the opening closed.

Assembly

Head and Body:

1. If you crocheted the beard. Place the beard approximately between rounds 27 and 28

of the body. Sew the beard onto the face.

2. If you want the brushed beard look. Attach a row of double stranded yarn

approximately between rounds 27 and 28. You will want 18 strands of white yarn cut

approximately 6 inches in length. Make one row. Then repeat 2 more rows underneath

that first row. Brush the yarn out with a wire pet brush. You will lose a lot of yarn during

this process.

Nose:

1. Pin the nose above your beard.

2. Sew the nose onto the body.

Hat:

1. Pin the hat onto the head going around the nose.

2. Sew the hat onto the head but not onto the nose.

Arms:

1. Pin the arms onto the side of the body.

2. Sew the arms onto the body.

Legs:

1. Turn the body upside down and pin the legs onto the bottom of the body.

2. Sew the legs onto the body.

The post Amigurumi Christmas Gnome Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

HEAD

1.8sc

2. 16sc

3. (1 sc 1 inc)*8 – 24sc

4. (2 sc 1 inc)*8 – 32sc

5. (3 sc 1 inc)*8 – 40sc

6. (4 sc 1 in) *8 – 48sc

7. (5 sc 1 inc) *8 – 56sc

8. (6 sc 1 in) *8 – 64sc

9. – 20. 64sc (12 rows)

(We attach 10mm eyelets to the 14th-15th row at 11sc intervals.)

21. (6 sc 1 dec)*8 – 56sc

22. (5 sc 1 dec) *8 – 48sc

23. (4 sc 1 dec)*8 – 40sc

24. (3 sc 1 dec)*8 – 32sc

25. (2 sc 1 dec)*8 – 24sc

26. (1 sc 1 dec)*8 – 16sc

EAR

1. 6sc

2. (1 inc 1 sc)*3 – 9sc

3. (2 sc 1 inc)*3 – 12sc

4. 1sc 1inc (3 sc 1 inc)*2 2sc – 15sc

5. (4 sc 1 in) *3 – 18sc

6. 2sc 1 inc (5 sc 1 inc)*2 3sc – 21sc

7. – 11. 21sc (5 rows)

12. 1 dec 9sc 1 dec 8sc – 19sc

13. 19sc

14. 14sc 1 dec 3sc – 18sc

15. 1 dec 6sc 1 dec 8sc – 16 sc

CAP

1. 10sc

2. (1 popcorn 1 inch) *5

3. (2 sc 1 inc)*5 – 20sc

4. (1 popcorn 1 inch)*10

5. (5 sc 1 in) *5 – 35sc

6. (1 popcorn 1 inch)*17

7. 54sc

8. (1 popcorn 2 sc)*17

LEG

1. 6sc

2. 12sc

3. – 32. 12sc (30 rows)

BODY

33. Pull 3 chains and join with shifting stitches

34. – 43. 30sc (10 rows)

44.7sc 1 dec 13 sc 1 dec 6sc

45. 7sc 1 dec 12sc 1 dec 5sc

46. ​​7sc 1 dec 11sc 1 dec 4sc

47. 7sc 1 dec 10sc 1 dec 3sc

48. 7sc 1 dec 9sc 1 dec 2sc

49.7sc 1 dec 8sc 1 dec 1sc

50. 7sc 1 dec 7sc 1 dec

51st – 52nd 16sc

ARM

1.5sc

2. 10sc

3. – 12. 10 sc (10 rows)

13. 1 dec 8sc

14th – 17th 9sc (4 rows)

18. 1 dec 7sc

19. – 22. 8sc (4 rows)

24. 1 dec 6sc

25. – 26. 7sc

OVERALLS

1. 17 ch

2. 34sc

3. – 22. 34sc; we combine with loop shifting

23. – 27. 64sc (5 rows)

28. (2sc 1 dec)*16 – 48sc

29. (1sc 1 dec) *16 – 32sc

30. 7sc 2 dec 13sc 2 dec 6sc – 30sc

31. – 34. 30sc

The post Amigurumi Lamb Baby Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Head

Start with white color

Ch 6 , working in second ch from hook

Rnd 1; sc in next 4ch ,3sc in next ch , ( working in to opposite side ) sc in next 3st , inc in next st (12)

Rnd 2; ( inc in next st , sc in next st ) repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 3; (sc in next 2st, inc in next st ) repeat 6times (24)

Rnd 4-6; sc in each st (24)

Rnd 7; (sc in next st , inc in next st ) repeat 6times , sc in next 12st (30)

Change to brown color

Rnd 8; (dc in next 2st,2dc in next st ) repeat 6times , sc in next 12st (36)

Rnd 9; (dc in next 3st,2dc in next st ) repeat 6 times ,sc in next 12st (42)

Rnd 10-15; sc in each st (42)

Rnd 16; (sc in next 5st, dec by 2st together ) repeat 6 times (36)

Rnd 17; (sc in next 4st,dec by 2st together) repeat 6 times (30)

Rnd 18; (sc in next 3st, dec by 2st together) repeat 6 times (24)

Stuffed

Rnd 19; (sc in next 2st,dec by 2st together) repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 20; (sc in next st ,dec by 2st together) repeat 6 times (12)

Rnd 21; dec by 2st together ,6 times

Fasten off .

Body

Start with white color

Rnd 1; 6sc into magic ring 

Rnd 2; inc by 2sc in each st (12)

Rnd 3; (sc in next st , inc in next st )   repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 4; (sc in next 2st, inc in next st ) repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 5; (sc in next 3st, inc in next st ) repeat 6 times (30)

Rnd 6; (sc in next 4st, inc in next st ) repeat 6 times (36)

Rnd 7-12; sc in each st (36)

Rnd 13; (sc in next 4st, dec by 2st together) repeat 6 times (30)

Rnd 14; sc in each st (30)

Rnd 15; (sc in next 3st, dec by 2st together) repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 16; sc in each st (24)

Rnd 17; (sc in next 2st, dec by 2st together) repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 18; sc in each st (18)

Fasten off and leave long tail .

Ears

Start with brown color

Rnd 1; 6sc into magic ring 

Rnd 2; inc by 2sc in each st (12)

Rnd 3; (sc in next st , inc in next st )   repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 4; (sc in next 2st, inc in next st ) repeat 6 times (24)

Rnd 5-8; sc in each st (24)

Rnd 9; (sc in next 4st,dec by 2st together) repeat 4times (20)

Rnd 10-11; sc in each st (20)

Rnd 12; (sc in next 3st,dec by 2st together) repeat 4times (16)

Rnd 13-16; sc in each st (16)

Fasten off and leave long tail .

Legs

Start with white color

Ch 6 , working in second ch from hook

Rnd 1; sc in next 4ch ,3sc in next ch , ( working in to opposite side ) sc in next 3st , inc in next st (12)

Rnd 2; ( inc in next st , sc in next st ) repeat 6 times (18)

Rnd 3; (sc in next 2st, inc in next st ) repeat 6times (24)

Rnd 4-5; sc in each st (24)

Rnd 6; sc in next 6st , dec by 2st together x6times , sc in next 6st (18)

Rnd 7; sc in next 6st , dec by 2st together x3times ,sc in next 6st (15)

Rnd 8-10; sc in each st (15)

stuffed

Change to brown color

Rnd 11-13; sc in each st (15)

Rnd 14; (sc in next 3st,dec by 2st together) repeat 3 times (12)

Rnd 15; sc in each st (12)

stuffed

Rnd 16; dec by 2st together x6times

Fasten off .

Arms

Start with white color

Rnd 1; 6sc into magic ring 

Rnd 2; inc by 2sc in each st (12)

Rnd 3; (sc in next st , inc in next st )   repeat   6 times (18)

Rnd 4-5; sc in each st (18)

Rnd 6; dec by 2st together x6times , sc in next 6st (12)

Stuffed

Rnd 7; dec by 2st together x3 times , sc in next 6st (9)

Rnd 8-9; sc in each st (9)

Change to brown color

Rnd 10-15; sc in each st (9)

Fasten off and leave long tail .

Tail

Start with white color

Rnd 1; 6sc into magic ring

Rnd 2; sc in each st (6)

Rnd 3; (sc in next st , inc in next st )repeat 3 times (9)

Rnd 4-6; sc in each st (9)

Change to brown color

Rnd 7; (sc in next 2st,inc in next st)repeat 3times(12)

Rnd 8-12; sc in each st (12)

Fasten off .

Nose ; start with dark color , 8sc into magic ring , slip stitch ,fasten off and leave long tail .

The post Amigurumi Little Puppy Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Materials:

• 8/4 Cotton yarn (Purchased at Hobbii.com)
• Purple, white, black, orange, yellow, nude/skin, red and green color yarn
• 2.0 mm and 2.75 mm crochet hook
• 9 mm safety eyes
• Sewing needle, scissors
• Stitch Marker
• Embroidery thread (brown color)
• Fabric glue or liquid stitch
• Pink blush make-up

Note: Kelly and Sabrina are the same pattern except for the dress and purse.

Abbreviations:

• R= Rows
• Rnd= Rounds
• sc= single crochet
• dc=double crochet
• trc= treble crochet
• inc= increase
• dec=decrease
• slst= slip stitch
• MR=magic ring
• Ch=chain
• FO= fasten off
• BLO= back loop only
• I used 2.0 mm hook.

ARMs (Make 2)

R1: MR 7 sc use nude color yarn

R2-3: 7 sc change to shirt color (purple for Sabrina, black for Kelly)

R4-13: 7 sc around ; FO (stuff arms is optional )

LEGS (Make 2)

R1: MR 6 sc use shoe color (brown for Sabrina; blank for Kelly)

R2: inc (12)

R3: (1sc, inc )x6 (18)

R4: 5sc, 4dec, 5sc BLO (14)

R5: 5sc, 2dec, 5sc (12) change to first sock color (lime green for

Sabrina; Orange for Kelly)

R6: sc around BLO (12)

R7: sc around (12) change to second sock color (black)

R8: sc around (12) change back to first sock color

R9: sc around (12) change to nude color

R10: BLO (2sc, dec)x3 (9)

R11-15: 9 sc around; FO for right leg

Repeat R1-15 for left leg but do not FO; change to white at the last stitch. Stuff both legs.

Join the two legs (make sure the yarn color change is in the back of the body.)

BODY

Continue from leg

R16: from left leg ch 2, join right leg at stitch 5 of the right leg sc 9, sc on ch 2, 9 sc on left leg (22)

R17: 1 inc, 4 sc, 1inc, 5sc, 1 inc, 4sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (26)

R18-19: 26 sc around in white color then

change to shirt color (purple for Sabrina; blank for Kelly)

R20: (3sc, dec)x5 +1 sc (21)

R21-23: 21 sc around

R24: (sc, dec) x7 (14)

R25: (6sc, inc) x2 (16)

R26-28: 16 sc

Connect arms

R29: 6 sc then join arm 7 sc, 7 sc on body, join 2nd arm

7 sc, 3 sc (30)

R30: (3sc, dec)x6 (24)

R31: (2sc, dec)x6 (18)

R32: (4sc, dec) x3 (15) change to nude color for Kelly change to nude at R34 to get the turtle neck.

R33: BLO (3sc,dec)x3 (12) Stuff body

R34: (sc, dec) x4 (8)

R35: 8 sc around

HEAD

R1: inc around (16)

R2: (sc, inc)x 8 (24)

R3: (2sc, inc )x8 (32)

R4: (7sc, inc)x4 (36)

R5: (5sc, inc)x6 (42)

R6: (6sc, inc)x 6 (48)

R7: (7sc, inc) x6 (54)

R8-17: sc 54

Insert eyes at R12-13, 9 stitches apart, add eye lashes and liner and eye white before securing the safety eyes.

Start stuff the heck and head. Insert a wood stick (I used a Chinese take out chopsticks) to support the neck)

R18: (7sc, dec)x6 (48)

R19: (6sc, dec) x6 (42)

R20: (5sc,dec) x6 (36)

R21: (4sc, dec)x6 (32) continue to stuff the

Head

R22: (3sc, dec) x6 (24)

R23: (2sc, dec) x6 (18)

R24: (sc, dec) x6 (12)

R25: dec x6 (6); finish stuffing, FO weave in the ends

EARS (make 2)

R1: MR 5 sc, pull the MR closed FO

Dress for Sabrina

R1: Ch 25 2nd ch from hook 24 sc, ch 1 turn working in rows, start with black to make belt

R2-3: 24 sc, ch 1 turn

Change to orange color

R4: BLO (dc-inc) x24 (48)

R5: (dc-inc) x 48 (96) join the other side with slst

R6: 96 dc around (now working in rounds)

R7: (hdc-dec)x48 (48)

R8: (4hdc, hdc-dec)x8

R9: Ch 2-5dc in same st, skip 1 st, 1 sc, skip 1 st, 6 dc in same st, skip 1 st, (1 sc, skip 1 st, 6dc in same st, skip 1 st) repeat this pattern , FO

Cape for Sabrina

R1:Ch 39 working in rows

R2: 2nd ch from hook, sc 38, ch1 turn

R3: (dec, 6sc)x4, 6sc, ch 1 turn (34)

R4: (dec, 5sc)x4, 6 sc, ch1 turn (30)

R5: (dec, 4sc)x5, ch1 turn (25)

R6-8: 25sc (ch1, turn each row)

R9: (dec, 3sc)x5, ch1 turn

R10-11: 25 sc, (ch1 turn each row)

R12: Ch2 +3dc in same st, (4dc, inc) x2; 6dc, 3dc in the last stitch, FO Sc around the base of the cape with purple.

Ch 70 for the string for the cape. Insert the string at Row 11.

Dress for Kelly

R1: Ch 21, 2nd ch from hook, sc 20, ch 1 turn (purple color)

R2-4: sc 20 (ch1 turn at each row)

Change to black

R5: 20 sc (ch 1 turn) change to orange color

R6: FLO (dc, dc-inc) (30)

R7: (dc-inc) each st (6)

R8: hdc 60

R9: moss st (hdc, slst) (6)

R10: BLO sc around FO

Inner skirt (purple color)

Use back loop from R6

R1: (dc, dc-inc) x15 (45)

R2: dc-inc 45 (90)

R3: 90 dc

R4: 90 hdc FO

Sew dress on Kelly.

Top panel – in purple color follow diagram below.

Strap: Ruffle- Ch 12, 2nd ch from hook, (1hdc, 1ch)x11.

Or basic Ch 12 for strap if you like. Sew straps on the dress panel and back.

Hair wig (use larger hook, I used 2.75 mm, crochet loosely)

R1: MR 6 sc

R2: inc around (12)

R3: (sc, inc)x 6 (28)

R4: (2sc, inc )x 6 (24)

Start of hair strands (S=strand), from each stitch one hair strand is made.

S1 &2: Ch 6, 5 hdc (always start from 2nd ch from hook)

S3: Ch 7, 6hdc

S4: Ch 11, 10 hdc

S5-S17: Ch 15; 15 hdc

S18: ch 11, 10 hdc

S19: Ch 8, 7 hdc

S20-24: ch 6, 5 hdc

S25: Ch 7, 6 hdc

FO

On S5 top slst with braid color of your choice

Make 4 curls – for each curl= sl st to attach yarn,

Ch 25, 15 inc, 9 sc , slst FO

Tie curls with black yarn

Hair wig asembly (see pictures below) You can arrange the strands however you like I use liquid stitch to glue them on to her head.

Witch Hat: Use 2.0 mm hook

R1: MR 3sc

R2: inc (6)

R3-6: 6sc

R7: (sc, inc)x3 (9)

R8: 9 sc

R9: (2sc, inc) x3 (12)

R10: (3sc, inc) x3 (15)

R11: (4sc, inc) x3 (18)

R12: (5sc, inc) x 3 (21)

R13: 21 sc

R14: (2sc, inc) x7 (28)

R15: 28 sc change to green

R16: BLO 28 sc

R17: 28 sc change to black

R18: BLO 28 sc

R19: (3sc, inc) x7 (35)

R20: inc x 35 (70)

R21: 70 sc, FO

Cat Crossbody Purse: Black

R1: MR 6 sc

R2: inc (12)

R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)

R4: slst 1, ch 3 slst back into same stitch, slst 2, ch 30 connect to the other side at st # 13, slst towards the first ear, ch 3 slst back into same st, slst, FO Sew in Cat’s eyes, nose and whiskers.

Pumpkin purse: Orange and yellow top

R1: MR 6 sc

R2: inc (12)

R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)

R4: BLO 18 sc

R5: 18 sc change to yellow

R6: BLO 18 sc

R7: decx9 (9) stuff lightly

R8: ( sc, dec) x3 FO, weave off.

At St 9 ch 12 for handle, connect at st 18, FO

Sew in pumpkin face.

Assembly

For Sabrina, sew in belt buckle and I put a lime green yarn as accent.

Earrings are just pins which are glued in.

Sew in nose between eyes ~ R 10

Add blush at the end Happy Crocheting

The post Amigurumi Halloween Dolls Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Abbreviations

MR – Amigurumi ring

CH – air loop

SC – single crochet

İNC – increase

DEC – decrease

Necessary materials

1.1 skein of Himalaya Dolphin Baby (I have 80356)

2. Multi-colored remains of plush yarn for the mane, palms and horns.

3. Softy plus for the face and tummy

4. Thread in color for sewing

5. Black thread for the muzzle

6. Shiny eyes on a secure mount 16mm

7. Hook number 4-4.5 (for plush)

8. Hook number 3 (for softy plus)

Unicorn Head

1.6SC into 2nd loop from hook

2.6İNC (12)

3. (1SC; İNC) × 6 times (18)

4. (2SC; İNC) × 6 times (24)

5. (3SC; İNC) × 6 times (30)

6. (4SC; İNC) × 6 times (36)

7. (5SC; İNC) × 6 times (42)

8-15.42 SC unchanged (8 rows)

16. (5SC; DEC) × 6 times (36)

17. (4SC; DEC) × 6 times (30)

18.15 DEC

Arms

We start knitting with light yarn

1.6 SC in 2nd loop from hook (6)

2.6İNC (12)

3. (3 SC; İNC) × 6 times (15)

4-6. 15 SC unchanged (3 rows)

7. (3 SC; DEC) × 3 times (12) change thread on body color)

8-17. 12 SC unchanged (10 rows)

Fasten the thread, cut off.

Legs + Body

We start by knitting the legs.

1.6SC in 2nd loop from hook (6)

2.6İNC (12)

3. (1SC; İNC) × 6 times (18)

4-8. 18 SC unchanged (5 rows)

Fasten the thread, cut off.

Similarly, we knit the 2nd leg, but do not cut the thread, but get another 5 CH

9. Attach the 1st leg, tying it in a circle – 18 SC.

Then 5SC along the chain CH, 18 SC along the 2nd leg, 5 SC along chain CH. Mark the next column as the beginning row.

10-16. 46 SC unchanged (7 rows).

17.8SC; DEC; 21 SC; DEC; 13 SC (44)

18.44 SC unchanged

19.8SC; DEC; 20 SC; DEC; 12 SC (42)

20.42 SC unchanged

21.8 SC; DEC; 19 SC; DEC; 11 SC (40)

22.40 SC unchanged

23.8 SC; DEC; 18 SC; DEC; 10 SC (38 SC)

24.38 SC unchanged

25.8 SC; DEC; 17 SC; DEC; 9 SC (36)

26.36 SC unchanged

27.8 SC; DEC; 16 SC; DEC; 8 SC (34)

28.34 SC unchanged

29.8 SC; DEC; 15 SC; DEC; 7 SC (32)

30.32 SC unchanged

31.8 SC; DEC; 14 SC; DEC; 6 SC (30)

32.30 SC unchanged

33. In this row we knit hands

9 SC, 6 SC (fold the arm in half, knit paired with body loops); 15 SC; (if hands don’t come out exactly on the sides, try increasing or decreasing number of SC at the beginning of the row)

34.30 SC unchanged

Horn and mane

Mane and tail (6 pieces each):

Dial a chain of CH, knit 2SC in each loop starting from the second from the hook.

For mane, chain from 40 CH, for tail from 30 CH.

Horn:

1.4 SC in 2nd loop from hook (4)

2.4 İNC (8)

3-7. 8 SC unchanged (5 rows)

8.1 SC, next 2 SC

we knit one piece of the mane in each SC, 5 SC (8)

9.In 4 SC we knit the remaining 4 mane details, 4SC unchanged (8)

Fasten the thread, cut off, leaving cm 20 for sewing on.

I sew the horn not in the center, but stepping back 1 row

Tummy (softy plus)

1. Dial a chain of 13 CH.

2. We begin to knit starting from the 2nd loop from the hook

11 SC, 3SC in one loop, 10 SC, İNC (26)

3. İNC; 10 SC; 3 İNC; 10 SC; 2 İNC (32)

4. (1SC; İNC); 10 SC; (1SC; İNC) × 3 times; 10 SC; (1SC; İNC) × 2 times (38)

5. (2SC; İNC); 10 SC; (1SC; İNC) × 3 times; 10 SC; (2SC; İNC) × 2 times (44)

6. (3SC; İNC); 10 SC; (1SC; İNC) × 3 times; 10 SC; (3SC; İNC) × 2 times (50)

7. (4SC; İNC); 10 SC; (1SC; İNC) × 3 times; 10 SC; (4SC; İNC) × 2 times (56)

Fasten the thread, cut off, leaving the tail for sewing

Muzzle (softy plus)

1. Dial a chain of 10 CH, start knitting from the 2nd hook loops.

2. 8SC; 3 SC in one loop; 7 SC; İNC (20)

3. İNC; 7 SC; 3 İNC; 7 SC; 2 İNC (26)

4. (1 SC; İNC); 7 SC; (1 SC; İNC) × 3 times; 7 SC; (1 SC; İNC)

× 2 times (32)

5-6. 32 SC unchanged (2 rows)

Fasten the thread, cut off, leaving a tail forsewing on

Ears

1.5 SC in 2nd loop from hook (5)

2.5 İNC (10)

3-5. 10 SC unchanged (3 rows)

Fold the part in half and sew, stepping back 1 row from the horn.

Sew on the details, insert the eyes at the level

9-10 rows, 5-6 SC apart.

We embroider the nostrils and mouth with black thread.

The post Amigurumi Unicorn Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Amigurumi Elephant Free Pattern In this case I recommend to use chenille yarn – as indicated – because otherwise the result can differ significantly, which brand of yarn of course is up to you. Besides, chenille yarn is really very cuddly and only then it becomes a real plushy. The use of other yarn is of course still possible.

Materials:

When using the suggested materials, it will be about 30 cm tall.

Please keep in mind that different yarn may result in a bigger or smaller piece. Make sure to adapt your hook size according to your yarn and personal tension. When crocheting Amigurumis you should use a much smaller needle size than indicated on the label or you would use it for other crochet projects so that no holes are made when the piece is stuffed.

• Chenille-style yarn (Super Bulky), e. g. Bernat Velvet, Himalaya Dolphin, Katia Bambi, Gründl Funny, Papataya Velvet etc., about 250 g of main color and if you like some contrasting yarn for the ears and creme, white or off-white for the tusks, some yarn (Sports weight) for the eyes – black and white and blue, green or brown

• Crochet hook in suitable size (with me: body 4 mm, trunk 5 mm, eyes 3 mm)

• Stuffing

• Musical clock (if possible a washable)

TIP: For Chenille yarn I use 2 chains instead of the Magic ring (thread ring) and crochet the required number of stitches into the first chain. A macig ring is difficult and not alwais possible to tighten with this yarn.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

MR = magic ring inc = increase

sc = single crochet dec = decrease

hdc = half double crochet st = stitch

ch = chain BLO = back loop only

slst = slip stitch FLO = front loop only

(-) x = repeat inside of () for x nr of times spike stitch (description comes below, when

you need the stitch)

Trunk closure (outside):

This part can be crocheted in contrast color or in the main color – it is almost invisible later, so this is not very important.

Regular hook size (with me 4 mm)

1. ch 2, sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Trunk clousure (inside):

Color doesn’t matter, you won’t see it later.

Regular hook size (with me 4 mm)

1. ch 2, sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Trunk/head:

Main color

Use a bigger hook size (with me 5 mm) to make the fabric more flexible.

1. ch 12, join round with slst in first st, sc 12 (12)

The trunk should be about as long as the pulled out string, if it is longer or shorter you have to crochet accordingly more or less of the following rounds.

2.-21. (20 Rounds) BLO or FLO (whichever you like better): sc in each st around (12)

From here, crochet through both loops again and switch to regular needle size (with me 4 mm).

22. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

Crochet together the inner trunk closure and the next head round, always crocheting through both layers (see also photos).

23. sc 6, inc x6, sc 6 (24)

24. sc 6, (sc 1, inc) x6, sc 6 (30)

25. (sc 1, inc) x, (sc 2, inc) x6, (sc 1, inc) x3 (42)

26. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

27. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

28.-37. (10 Rounds) sc in each st around (54)

38. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

39. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

First published: 06.05.2016

Before the opening becomes too small, the music box should now be inserted. I have done this at this point, otherwise it will be quite fiddly, especially if you want to sew it on. First thread the cord from the inside through the inner trunk closure (this is easiest to do with a wool needle with a big eye, but it also works without), then through the trunk and finally through the outer trunk closure (the beautiful side points away from the music box, i.e. outwards), then you attach the handle to the music box, so nothing can disappear in the trunk. If you have a music box like mine, make sure that the larger hole on the handle points outwards, the knot will be hidden inside.

IMPORTANT: remove the safety pin inside from the cord of the music box. This is not possible later.

The trunk can now retract, it is secured.

Before continuing with the head, I have sewn the music box with the eyelet inside to the bottom of the head, so it cannot slip. It should not be a problem even without this step, but better safe than sorry.

40. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

41. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

42. sc in each st around (30)

Stuff and shape the head.

43. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

44. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

45. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

Finish stuffing before closing. The head should be stuffed tightly, i.e. no holes visible between the stitches – that would be too much – but if you prick it with your finger, the dent should go away as quickly as you take your finger away. If dents remain, you will have to fill much more. There will be a lot, a lot of stuffing in the head.

46. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, close, weave in loose ends.

Now close the opening on the end of the trunk, i.e. use the main color to connect the outer trunk closure to the trunk, rejoin the yarn, insert the hook from outside of the trunk first and then through one stitch of the closure piece (see picture), crochet as follows:

(sc 1, inc) x6.

Leg (make 2):

Main color

Regular hook size (with me 4 mm)

TIP: For the spike stitch (some may know it as drop single crochet stitch) used here in round 6 you do not crochet in the stitches of the previous round, but in the second last round and then crochet single crochet stitches. The working loop is pulled out a little bit, so that the stitch becomes longer and ends with the current round.

1. ch 2, sc 7 in 2nd ch from hook (7)

2. inc x7 (14)

3. (sc 1, inc) x7 (21)

4. (sc 2, inc) x7 (28)

5. sc in each st around (28)

6. spike stitch in each st around (28)

7.-14. (8 Rounds) sc in each st around (28)

15. (sc 2, dec) x7 (21)

Stuff the leg more firmly at the bottom, less stuffing towards the top, then flatten at

the top and crochet through both layers together with 10 single crochet stitches.

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Arm (make 2):

Main color

Regular hook size (with me 4 mm)

1. ch 2, sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 5, inc) x3 (21)

5.-10. (6 Rounds) sc in each st around (21)

11. (sc 5, dec) x3 (18)

12.-16. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (18)

First published: 06.05.2016

17. (sc 4, dec) x3 (15)

18.-21. (4 Rounds) sc in each st around (15)

Stuff the arm approx. up to half, max. ⅔, stuff more loosely towards the top, the rest of the arm is not stuffed. Now here also flatten at the top and crochet through both layers together with 7 single crochet stitches.

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Body:

Main color

Regular hook size (with me 4 mm)

1. ch 2, sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

7. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

8. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

9. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

10. (sc 8, inc) x6 (60)

In the following round the prepared legs are attached by crocheting, for this in each case insert the hook first through a stitch of the leg and then through a stitch of the body.

11. sc 7, sc 10 through leg and body, sc 26 along the body, sc 10 through the

other leg and body, sc 7 along the body, for the tail (this stitches are not

counted in the round): ch 8, from 2nd ch from hook: sc 7 (60)

At the start of the following round you can join the last stitch (the one before the tail)

and the first stitch of the next round with an invisible decrease (insert hook in the

front loops of both stitches and then crochet the single crochet stitch), there will be

no hole at this point – and it is not really a decrease because you use the last stitch

twice. At the end of the round make sure that the tail is facing outwards, just

crochet into the regular stitches of the round, the stitches of the tail remain

unworked. On the pictures below you can see the last stitch before the tail and the

first stitch after it – only these two stitches will be crocheted, the tail will be moved

down (3rd photo).

12.-20. (9 Rounds) sc in each st around (60)

21. sc 16, dec, (sc 3, dec) x5, sc 17 (54)

22. sc in each st around (54)

First published: 06.05.2016

23. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

24. sc in each st around (48)

25. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

26. sc in each st around (42)

27. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

28. sc in each st around (36)

29. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

30.-31. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (30)

In the following round the arms are attached, as before

with the legs, one stitch on the arm and one stitch on the body. The arms should be

evenly attached to the body. Since everyone crochets a little differently, you may

have to correct the place for attaching the arms, the 6 “back stitches” from the

beginning and end of the round should be in the middle of the back.

32. sc 4, sc 7 through arm and body, sc 10 along the body, sc 7 through arm and

body, sc 2 along the body (30)

33. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

Stuff and shape the body.

Fasten off, don’t close, weave in loose ends.

Inner ear (make 2):

Contrasting color

Regular hook size (with me 4 mm)

Crochet in rows. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.

1. ch 2, sc 4 in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn (4)

2. inc x4, ch 1, turn (8)

3. (sc 1, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (12)

4. (sc 2, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (16)

5. (sc 3, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (20)

6. (sc 4, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (24)

7. (sc 5, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (28)

8. (sc 6, inc) x4 (32)

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Outer ear (Right):

Main color

Regular hook size (with me 4 mm)

Crochet in rows. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.

1. ch 2, sc 4 in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn (4)

2. inc x4, ch 1, turn (8)

3. (sc 1, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (12)

4. (sc 2, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (16)

5. (sc 3, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (20)

6. (sc 4, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (24)

7. (sc 5, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (28)

8. (sc 6, inc) x4 (32)

Now place the outer ear on top of the inner ear, the outer ear facing you, ch 1, do not turn and crochet the following row, insert hook always through both layers:

9. (sc 7, inc) x4 (36)

Do not fasten off yet.

Hold the ear in a way that the inside is facing you and the working loop points down, then fold the upper tip (see photo) forward to the middle and pin it in place. Now pick up the working loop and crochet along the straight side, chain 1, then continue to crochet through both layers and crochet 1 single crochet stitch per row until the middle, from there you have to crochet through all 4 layers, continue to work sc 1 per row until the end of the row.

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Outer ear (left):

Main color

Regular hook size (with me 4 mm)

Crochet in rows. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.

1. ch 2, sc 4 in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn (4)

2. inc x4, ch 1, turn (8)

3. (sc 1, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (12)

4. (sc 2, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (16)

5. (sc 3, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (20)

6. (sc 4, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (24)

7. (sc 5, inc) x4, ch 1, turn (28)

8. (sc 6, inc) x4 (32)

This time place the inner ear on top of the outer, the inside is facing you now, pull the working loop through the first stitch of the inner ear, ch 1, turn and crochet the following row, insert hook always through both layers:

9. (sc 7, inc) x4 (36)

Again, hold the ear in a way that the inside is facing you and the working loop points down, then fold the upper tip (see photo) forward to the middle and pin it in place. Now pick

up the working loop and crochet along the straight side, chain 1, then continue to crochet through both layers and crochet 1 single crochet stitch per row until the middle, from there you have to crochet through all 4 layers, continue to work sc 1 per row until the end of the row.

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

optional: Tusks (make 2):

Creme, off-white or white

Regular hook size (with me 4 mm)

1. ch 2, sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook (6)

10. sc in each st around (6)

Fasten off, weave in loose ends, stuff a little if needed.

Left eye:

Sports weight yarn, eye color (e. g. blue, green, brown etc.)

Suitable hook size (with me 2.5 mm)

The eyes get especially pretty in joined rounds, meaning you start each round with a ch and join with a slst in the first stitch. Continuous rounds are also possible without any problems.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

Color change to black

3.a) (sc 1, inc) x3

Color change to white 3.b) (sc 1, inc) x3 (18)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing (both, black and white).

Right eye:

Sports weight yarn, eye color (e. g. blue, green, brown etc.)

Suitable hook size (with me 2.5 mm

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

Color change to white

3.a) (sc 1, inc) x3

Color change to black

3.b) (sc 1, inc) x3 (18)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing (both, black and white).

Pupil (make 2):

Sports weight yarn, black

Suitable hook size (with me 2.5 mm

1. hdc 9 in MR (9)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the pupil once on the left at the eye and

once on the right (I always cover the worst area with the pupil, e.g. when you have crocheted in joined rounds.

(optional) Scarf:

For the first elephant I knitted a scarf, just knit one, purl one, up to the desired length.

Of course you can also crochet a scarf, make a foundation chain in the desired length and crochet one row of single crochet stitches, then in the following rows you crochet through the back loops only and make as many rows until the desired width of the scarf is reached.

Shawl:

For the second elephant I found an pattern for a very cute shawl on Youtube, once a. I decided for the

knitted version, I knitted until the short/straight side of the cloth is about 50 cm long

and afterwards 6-8 rows of the border pattern.

Finishing:

For sewing the remaining parts you should use plain thread (e.g. thin cotton or sewing thread), because chenille yarn is really not good for sewing on, after a few stitches the thread usually dissolves.

Arms, legs, trunk and tail have already been jointed when crocheting, which reduces

the sewing work enormously, even if there is still a bit of work to do.

I sewed the head to the body first. The best way to do this is with the mattress stitch (if necessary just google, it’s very easy and results in a tight fitting head).

Make sure that the trunk is well centred at the front. TIP: If you have long, thin (one or two pointed) knitting needles, you can use them to fix the head to the body by

inserting the needles through the head and body from above – this makes sewing a

child’s play.

Next you pin the ears to the head, the folded part comes of course upwards, the inner ear to the front. When the ears are in place, you can sew them on. I first sewed the long side of the ear and then, to give it more stability, along the short, folded side (see photo).

Now sew on the prepared eyes. TIP: Use white thread for the white part and black thread for the black part, then you won’t see a seam. With the black thread you can also embroider eyelashes and with the white thread you can embroider highlights, if you like.

Sew the tusks left and right slightly below the trunk.

AAs last details you can now embroider a belly button (e.g. in the middle between round 13 and 14) and toes with the contrasting color (see also the following photos).

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