Best Bunny and bear- Recommended materials

1) Yarn for toys – microsuede in 1.5 mm bobbins

2) Yarn for decorating the face and for clothing:

Yarn Art Jeans N°01 for o-design of eyes, flower and jelly:

hearts on clothes;

No53 – for eyelashes and eyebrows;

No78 – dress and headband for a bear, nose for a bunny;

No75 – overalls for a bunny;

No70 – the bear’s nose.

3) Hook No.2

4) Filler

5) Eyes 10 mm;

6) Two buttons 10 mm;

7) A needle for stitching parts, a long needle for tightening the muzzle;

8) Scissors.

Let’s start knitting the Bunny and bear

Bear’s head

1) 2 ch (chain loops), 6 sc in the 2nd loop from the hook, sl-st (6)

2) 6 inc (12)

3) (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4) (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5) (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6) (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

7) (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8) (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

9) (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

10) (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

11) (9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

12) – 24) 66 sc (13 rows)

We insert the eyes between rows 17 and 18 at a distance of 11 sc

25) (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)

26) (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

27) (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

28) (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

29) (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36) We begin to fill the head

30) (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

31) (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Cut the thread and hide the end.

Bunny’s head

1) 2 ch (chain loops), 6 sc in the 2nd loop from the hook, sl-st (6)

2) 6 inc (12)

3) (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4) (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5) (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6) (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

7) (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8) (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

9) (15 sc, inc) x 3 (51)

10) 8 sc, inc, (16 sc, inc) x 2, 8 sc (54)

11) (17 sc, inc) x 3 (57)

12) 9 sc, inc, (18 sc, inc) x 2, 9 sc (60)

13) – 18) 60 sc (6 rows)

19) (9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

20) – 25) 66 sc – 6 rows

We insert the eyes between rows 17 and 18 at a distance of 11 sc

25) (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)

26) (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

27) (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

28) (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

29) (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36) We begin to fill the head

30) (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

31) (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Cut the thread, hide the end

Body (the same for a bunny and a bear)

1) 2 ch (chain loops), 6 sc in the 2nd loop from the hook, sl-st (6)

2) 6 inc (12)

3) (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4) (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5) (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6) (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

7) (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8) (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

9) (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

10) (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

11) We knit the lower legs: 12 sc, 6 sc together with the first leg, 24 sc, 6 sc together with the second leg, 12 sc (60)

12) – 15) 60 sc (4 rows)

16) (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

17) – 18) 54 sc – 2 rows

19) (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

20) 48 sc

21) (14 sc, dec) x 3 (45)

22) 6 sc, dec, (13 sc, dec) x 2, 7 sc (42)

23) 42 sc

24) (12 sc, dec) x 3 (39)

Let’s start filling

25) 5 sc, dec, (11 sc, dec) x 2, 6 sc (36)

26) (10 sc, dec) x 3 (33)

27) 4 sc, dec, (9 sc, dec) x 2, 5 sc (30)

28) (8 sc, dec) x 3 (27)

29) We knit the upper legs. There is no need to count here, the main thing is that the upper legs must be strictly symmetrical to the lower ones. The distance between the upper legs in front is 8 sc, in the back – 11 sc.

30) (7 sc, dec) x 3 (24)

31) 24 sc, cut the thread, leave the tip for sewing

Lower paws (the same for a bunny and a bear)

1) 2 ch (chain loops), 6 sc in the 2nd loop from the hook, sl-st (6)

2) 6 inc (12)

3) (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4) (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5) – 7) 24 sc – 3 rows

8) 4 sc, 8 dec, 4 sc (16)

9) 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (14)

We begin to fill (I fill only to the middle of the leg)

10) – 19) 14 sc – 10 rows

Additionally, we knit 2 sc offsets, fold in half and knit 6 sc on both walls. We cut off the thread and hide the tip inside the leg.

Upper paws (the same for a bunny and a bear)

1) 2 ch (chain loops), 6 sc in the 2nd loop from the hook, sl-st (6)

2) 6 inc (12)

3) (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14)

4) – 6) 14 sc – 3 rows

7) (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)

8) (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)

Fill the top foot only up to the 8th row

9) – 14) 10 sc – 6 rows

Additionally, we knit 2 sc offsets, fold in half and knit 4 sc on both walls. We cut off the thread and hide the tip inside the leg.

Bear’s ears

1) 2 ch (chain loops), 6 sc in the 2nd loop from the hook, sl-st (6)

  2) 6 inc (12)

3) (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4) – 6) 18 sc – 3 rows

Fold together, knit 8 sc on both sides. Cut the thread, leave the tip for sewing.

Bunny ears

1) 2 ch (chain loops), 6 sc in the 2nd loop from the hook, sl-st (6)

2) 6 inc (12)

3) 12 sc

4) (3 sc, inc) x 3 (15)

5) 15 sc

6) (4 sc, inc) x 3 (18)

7) 18 sc

8) (5 sc, inc) x 3 (21)

9) – 14) 21 sc – 6 rows

15) (5 sc, dec) x 3 (18)

16) (4 sc, dec) x 3 (15)

Fold in half, knit 7 sc on both sides. Fold in half again and use a needle to sew with a few stitches. Cut the thread, leave the tip for sewing.

Tail (the same for a bunny and a bear)

1) 2 ch (chain loops), 6 sc in the 2nd loop from the hook, sl-st (6)

2) (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)

3) 9 sc

Fold, knit 4 sc on both sides. Cut the thread, leave the tip for sewing.

Bear’s muzzle (knitted from micro velor)

1) 2 ch (chain loops), 6 sc in the 2nd loop from the hook, sl-st (6)

2) 6 inc (12)

3) (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

4) (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5) 24 sc, sl-st

Cut the thread, leave the tip for sewing

Assembly

1) Sew the head to the body loop to loop (24 loops left b In the last row of the head and the same amount in the last row of the body, which means we make 24 stitches). In the process, fill the neck area well.

2) We do eye tightening (similar to all my other master classes). Attention! It is better to tighten with Yarn Art Jeans thread of a suitable shade, since the micro-suede may tear;

3) Sew on the muzzle of the bear at the level of 18 – 26 rows of the head (do not fill it). Embroider the nose;

4) We embroider the bunny’s nose at the level of 18-20 rows of the head; 5) We shape the eyebrows (at the level of the 11th row of the head), eyelashes and whites of the eyes;

6) Sew on the ears (for a bunny – between 5-7 rows of the head, for a Bear – between 7-13 rows of the head);

7) Sew the tail between the 11th and 12th rows of the body

Dress for a bear

1) Dial 23 ch. Next we knit in turning rows, starting each new row with 1 ch

2) From the 2nd loop from the hook we knit 22 sc (22)

3) 2 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, 2 sc (24)

4) (2 sc, inc) x 8 (32)

5) Form the sleeves: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, 5 ch, skip 5 loops, insert the hook into the buoy, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, 5 ch, skip 5 loops, insert the hook into the buoy, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc (36)

6) – 9) 36 sc – 4 rows

10) Forming the skirt: 36 inc (72)

11) – 16) 72 sc – 6 rows

17) We tie the edge: 1 ch, 1 sl-st in the next loop – to the end of the row.

We do not cut the thread, we sew the dress from the back at the level of 11-16 rows. At the back of the neck we make ties (36 ch each) or a loop with a button.

Bow

Dial 13 ch. Next we knit in turning rows, starting each new row with 1 ch: 6 rows of 12 sc.

We tie a sc bow around the entire perimeter. Cut the thread and hide the end. We make a jumper and a rim (a chain of ch). Sew the bow to the headband.

Flower on the dress

We knit an amigurumi ring: (1 ch, 2 hdc, 1 ch, sl-st in MR) – 3 times. We tighten it.

Bunny overalls

1) Dial 45 ch, connect in a circle. Next we knit in circles

2) – 9) 8 rows of 44 sc

10) Make a hole for the ponytail: 42 sc (we don’t add 2 sc)

11) Make 4 ch, skip 4 loops, insert the hook into the 5th and knit 42 sc

12) – 17) 44 sc – 6 rows

Forming the trouser legs. For each trouser leg – 22 sc. We count 22 sc, insert the hook into the 23rd, knit 3 rows of 22 sc. We cut off the thread, bend the trouser leg and fix it with the remaining tip using a needle with several stitches. We knit the second leg in the same way.

Straps: 23 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook we knit 22 sc

heart

We knit in MR: 3 ch, 2 double crochets, 3 single crochets, 1 ch, 1 double crochet, 1 ch, 3 single crochets, 2 double crochets, 3 ch, sl-st in ka. We tighten

The post Best Bunny and bear Free Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

This free pattern provides detailed instructions on how to crochet a cute bear wearing overalls, perfect for both beginners and experienced crafters alike. With just a few basic crochet stitches and some yarn, you can create your own cuddly companion in no time.

LIST OF MATERIALS 

You will need: 

Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn 337-1 skein 

A bit of white yarn for the hat and face 

Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn 350-slightly more than 0.5 skein 

Stuffing (polyfill, synthetic stuffing, or any other) 

14mm safety eyes 

Velvet nose 15*11 

Thread for stitching the face matching the main yarn color (e.g., yarnart jeans) 

4mm crochet hook 

Scissors 

25mm joints for the legs 

Needle with a large eye 

A button for the pants 

Abbreviations: 

SC – Single Crochet 

SS – Slip Stitch 

INC – Increase 

DEC – Decrease 

(*5) – Repeat this pattern 5 times 

LOWER FEET 

Row 1: Magic ring into, 6 SC = 6 SC 

Row 2: 6 INC = 12 SC 

Row 3: 1 SC, INC (*6 times) = 18 SC 

Row 4: 1 SC, INC, 2 SC, INC (*5 times), 1 SC = 24 SC 

Row 5: 24 SC 

Row 6: 5 SC, INC (*4 times) = 28 SC 

Row 7: 8 SC, DEC (*6 times), 8 SC = 22 SC 

Row 8: 7 SC, DEC (*4 times), 7 SC = 18 SC 

Row 9: 7 SC, DEC (*2 times), 7 SC = 16 SC 

Rows 10-17: 8 rows with no changes, 16 SC in each 

Insert the joints for the legs. Be careful to place the joints on opposite sides so that they face each other when finished, creating left and right legs. 

Row 18: 4 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 2 DEC = 12 SC 

Row 19: 6 DEC = 6 SC 

Fill firmly, close the opening where the joint is, and hide the thread. 

EARS 

Row 1: Magic ring into, 6 SC = 6 SC 

Row 2: 6 INC = 12 SC 

Row 3: 1 SC, INC (*6 times) = 18 SC 

Row 4: 2 SC, INC (*6 times) = 24 SC 

Rows 5-6: Two rows with no changes, 24 SC in each 

Row 7: 1 SC, DEC (*8 times) = 16 SC 

Fold the ears in half and close them with 8 SC through both sides, leaving a thread for later attaching them to the head. 

UPPER FEET 

Row 1: Magic ring into, 6 SC = 6 SC 

Row 2: 3 SC in 1 stitch, 3 SC in 1 stitch, 1 SC, 3 SC in 1 stitch, 3 SC in 1 stitch, 1 SC = 14 SC 

Row 3: 2 SC, INC, 6 SC, INC, 4 SC = 16 SC 

Rows 4-5: Two rows with no changes, 16 SC in each 

Row 6: 3 SC, INC, 6 SC, DEC (*2 times), 2 SC = 15 SC 

Row 7: 4 SC, INC, 6 SC, DEC, 2 SC = 15 SC 

Row 8: 11 SC, DEC, 2 SC = 14 SC 

Row 9: 14 SC 

Row 10: 11 SC, DEC, 1 SC = 13 SC 

Rows 11-13: Three rows with no changes, 13 SC in each 

Row 14: 11 SC, DEC = 12 SC 

Rows 15-17: Three rows with no changes, 12 SC in each 

Fill the paws tightly but not completely, leaving approximately until row 14-15 unfilled. Close the paws with 6 SC through both sides; do not cut the thread as the paws will be attached to the body. 

BODY-HEAD 

Row 1: Magic ring into, 6 SC = 6 SC 

Row 2: 6 INC = 12 SC 

Row 3: 1 SC, INC (*6 times) = 18 SC 

Row 4: 1 SC, INC, 2 SC, INC (*5 times), 1 SC = 24 SC 

Row 5: 2 SC, INC, 3 SC, INC (*5 times), 1 SC = 30 SC 

Row 6: 3 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC (*5 times), 1 SC = 36 SC 

Row 7: 4 SC, INC, 5 SC, INC (*5 times), 1 SC = 42 SC 

Row 8: 5 SC, INC, 6 SC, INC (*5 times), 1 SC = 48 SC 

Rows 9-15: Seven rows with no changes, 48 SC in each 

Row 16: 6 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 42 SC 

Rows 17-18: Two rows with no changes, 42 SC in each 

Row 19: 5 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 36 SC 

Row 20: 36 SC 

At this stage, attach the lower legs, stuff the body, and adjust the position of the legs. For example, position them between rows 10 and 11, 23 SC apart from one joint to the other. The legs should be facing you. Remove the stuffing temporarily and secure the joints for later. 

Row 21: 4 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 30 SC 

Row 22: 3 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 24 SC 

Row 23: 24 SC 

Row 24: 2 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 18 SC 

Row 25: Attach the upper legs. Crochet 6 SC together with the leg, 5 SC, crochet 6 SC together with the leg again, 1 SC = 18 SC. Be careful when attaching the upper legs; they should be oriented with the convex side facing your face, and the side indicated by the arrow should be facing you. Check the placement relative to your crochet; there may be some shifting. Place the legs against the body and ensure they are parallel to the lower legs. Stuff the body firmly, do not cut the thread, as you will continue crocheting the head. 

HEAD 

Begin crocheting the head. 

Row 26: Make 18 INC = 36 SC 

Row 27: 5 SC, INC (*7 times) = 42 SC 

Row 28: 6 SC, INC (*6 times) = 48 SC 

Rows 29-35: Seven rows with no changes, 48 SC in each 

Insert the eyes between rows 33 and 34, with a distance of 5 SC between them. Fill the head and visually check that the eyes are evenly placed. 

Row 36: 6 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 42 SC 

Row 37: 5 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 36 SC 

Row 38: 36 SC 

Row 39: 4 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 30 SC 

Row 40: 3 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 24 SC 

Row 41: 2 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 18 SC 

Row 42: 1 SC, DEC (*6 times) = 12 SC 

Row 43: 6 DEC = 6 SC. Close with a needle, hide the thread. 

MUZZLE 

Row 1: In Magic Ring, 6 SC = 6 SC 

Row 2: 6 INC = 12 SC 

Row 3: 1 SC, INC (*6 times) = 18 SC 

Row 4: 18 SC 

Create a slip stitch, cut the thread. Attach the muzzle using regular white thread; this will make the attachment less visible. 

To decorate the muzzle, position it on the head and mark where you want the nose to be. It should be located between the safety eyes, between rows 3 and 4. Attach the nose. Sew the muzzle using regular white thread, folding it in half and positioning it below the eyes, aligning the lower edge with the point where you finished crocheting downwards. See the photo below. 

Take a piece of yarn matching the color of the yarn you used for the bear (e.g., yarnart jeans) and a needle with a large eye. Use colorful pins to mark points on the muzzle as shown in the photo. Find the center of the muzzle at the bottom (POINT A), insert the needle, leaving a thread end, and bring the needle out of point 1. Insert the needle into point 2 and return to point A, a distance of 1 SC away (POINT B). Tighten the thread to create the indentation. Bring the needle out of point B to point 3, insert it into point 4, and bring the thread back to point A, creating the indentation and tying the threads together. Then, create the indentation around the nose by wrapping the thread around the nose and securing it at the bottom of the muzzle. Hide the ends using a crochet hook or needle.

Fit the ears and attach them using the end left for sewing. The ears should be placed between rows 3 and 11 (count from the top of the head). Create eyelids for the safety eyes.

HAT: 

Using white yarn, 

Row 1: Magic ring into, 6 SC = 6 SC 

Row 2: 6 INC = 12 SC 

Row 3: 12 SC 

Row 4: 6 DEC = 6 SC

Row 5: Switch to the main color and crochet 6 SC 

Row 6: 2 SC, INC (*2 times) = 8 SC 

Row 7: 3 SC, INC (*2 times) = 10 SC 

Row 8: 4 SC, INC (*2 times) = 12 SC 

Row 9: 12 SC 

Row 10: 5 SC, INC (*2 times) = 14 SC 

Row 11: 6 SC, INC (*2 times) = 16 SC 

Row 12: 7 SC, INC (*2 times) = 18 SC 

Row 13: 8 SC, INC (*2 times) = 20 SC 

Row 14: 9 SC, INC (*2 times) = 22 SC 

Row 15: 10 SC, INC (*2 times) = 24 SC 

Row 16: 11 SC, INC (*2 times) = 26 SC 

Row 17: 12 SC, INC (*2 times) = 28 SC 

Row 18: 13 SC, INC (*2 times) = 30 SC 

Row 19: 14 SC, INC (*2 times) = 32 SC 

Row 20: 15 SC, INC (*2 times) = 34 SC 

Row 21: 16 SC, INC (*2 times) = 36 SC 

Row 22: 36 SC 

Row 23: 17 SC, INC (*2 times) = 38 SC 

Row 24: 18 SC, INC (*2 times) = 40 SC 

Rows 25-28: Four rows with no changes, 40 SC in each 

Row 29: 19 SC, INC (*2 times) = 42 SC 

Rows 30-34: Five rows with no changes, 42 SC in each 

Row 35: Switch to white yarn and crochet 42 SC. At the end, create a slip stitch and fasten off the thread. 

PANTS 

Row 1: Chain 45 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring. Make a turning chain and crochet 45 SC, make a turning chain in each row. 

Row 2: 8 SC, INC (*5 times) = 50 SC 

Row 3: 9 SC, INC (*5 times) = 55 SC 

Rows 4-6: Three rows with no changes, 55 SC in each 

Row 7: 10 SC, INC (*5 times) = 60 SC 

Rows 8-9: Two rows with no changes, 60 SC in each 

Turn the work inside out, count 26 SC and crochet 4 slip stitches through both sides. This creates two legs, each with 16 SC. Do not cut the yarn. Turn the work back to the right side. 

Start crocheting the leg, working 4 rows with 26 SC each. Fasten off and cut the yarn. Return to the second leg, join the yarn, and crochet 4 rows with 26 SC each. For the suspender strap, join at the back of the pants. I dressed the pants on the bear and roughly marked where I wanted to make the straps. Chain 32, make 3 additional chains for the buttonhole, and start crocheting 32 SC, beginning from the 4th chain. Fasten off and cut the yarn. Attach a button on the front. The pants are ready! 

I’d love to see your teddy bear; please mention me in your posts! 

The post Free Bear in overalls Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

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You can make a little Winnie the Pooh with sport yarn or a big one with plush yarn.

The little one is made with YarnArt jeans, hook 2 and it is 16 cm (eyes 5 mm)
The big one is made with Alize softy plus and Himalaya Dolphin baby, hook 4 and is 29 cm tall (eyes 10 mm)

Amigurumi MATERIALS

1. Sport yarn (50g/160m):

-Dark yellow (YarnArt Jeans 35)

-Bright red (YarnArt Jeans 90)

2. Black thread to embroider the eyebrows and the muzzle

3. Safety eyes 5 mm.

4. Crochet hook 2 mm

5. Stuffing (Polyester fiber fill)

If you use these materials, the finished toy is around 15-17 cm (6″) tall.

The difficulty level of the pattern is easy to medium.

Winnie Bear ARMS:

Start crocheting with the yellow yarn. Stuff only 2/3 of the arm.

1. 6 sc into a magic ring (6)

2. 6 inc (12)

3-11. 12 sc (9 rounds)

Change the yarn to red color:

12-15. 12 sc (4 rounds)

16. (2 sc, dec)*3 (9)

17. Make only 3 sc, fold the arm in half and crochet 4 sc through both sides.

Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew the arms to the body in round21.

Winnie Bear LEGS:

Crochet with the yellow yarn. Stuff as you go.

1. 6 sc into a magic ring (6)

2. 6 inc (12)

3. (sc, inc)*6 (18)

4. 18 sc

5. 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc (14)

6. 5 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc (12)

7. 12 sc

8. (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)

9. 15 sc

10. (4 sc, inc)*3 (18)

11. For the left leg: crochet only 13 sc. Fasten off and cut the yarn.

11. For the right leg: 18 sc. Don’t cut the yarn, we will continue with the body:

Winnie Bear BODY:

1. Crochet 6 sc more on the right leg, make chain 3, join the left leg (continue from where you stopped crocheting the leg) and crochet 18 sc on it. Continue crocheting: 3 sc on the chain; 18 sc on the right leg; 3 sc on the chain; put the marker here (42)

2. 18 sc, 3 inc, 18 sc, 3 inc (48)

3. 18 sc, (sc, inc)*3, 18 sc, (sc, inc)*3 (54)

4-11. 54 sc (8 rounds)

12. (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)

Change the yarn to red color:

13. 48 sc

14. 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42)

BODY:

15. 42 sc

16. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)

17. 36 sc

18. 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30)

19-20. 30 sc (2 rounds)

21. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

Change the yarn to yellow color:

22. 24 sc

23. (6 sc, dec)*3 (21)

Stuff the body firmly, especially in the neck. Don’t cut the yarn, we will continue with the head:

Winnie Bear HEAD:

Continue crocheting with the yellow color.

Stuff as you go.

1. 21 inc (42)

2. (5 sc, inc)*7 (49)

3. 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*6, 3 sc (56)

4-6. 56 sc (3 rounds)

7. (5 sc, dec)*8 (48)

8. 48 sc

9. 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42)

10. 42 sc

11. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)

Insert the safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9 with 7 sc between them. There must be 6 sc visible.

HEAD:

12-15. 36 sc (4 rounds)

16. 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30)

17. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

18. sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5, sc (18)

19. (sc, dec)*6 (12)

20. 6 dec (6)

Make sure that the head is stuffed firmly. Close the opening and hide the yarn inside.

Winnie Bear MUZZLE:

Crochet with the yellow yarn. Stuff a little.

1. 6 sc into a magic ring (6)

2. 6 inc (12)

3. (sc, inc)*6 (18)

4. 18 sc

Make a sl st, fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew the muzzle to the head in rounds 3-8.

Using the black thread embroider the nose and the mouth on the muzzle.

Embroider the eyebrows in round 13.

Winnie Bear EARS:

Crochet with the yellow yarn.

1. 6 sc into a magic ring (6) 2. 6 inc (12)

3. (3 sc, inc)*3 (15)

4. (3 sc, dec)*3 (12)

5. (sc, dec)*4 (8)

Make a sl st, fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a tail for sewing. Don’t stuff the ears, sew them on the head in rounds 16-18.

Your cute Wheeny the Pooh bear is ready. I hope you have fun making it with me!

If you have any questions about the pattern, feel free to write to me. I’m always happy to help.

Winnie Bear

The post Winnie The Pooh Bear Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Materials

1. Yarn plush gray (I used art -760 from YarnArt Dolce);

2. Screw eyes 12 mm;

3. Thin cotton yarn or floss for sewing toys (I picked it up to match the toy);

4. Needle for stitching toy parts and scissors;

5. Hook number 5;

7. Filler (sintepuh, holofiber);

8. Blue felt

9. Buttons for fastening paws.

When using these materials, the growth of the toy is about 26-28 cm.

Abbreviations

AR – Amigurumi Magic ring

MR – Amigurumi Magic ring

3in1 – crochet 3 columns in one loop

sc : Single Crochet

inc : Increase

dec : Decrease

tr : Triple Crochet/ Treble Crochet

st: Stitch

dc : Double Crochet

hdc: Half Double Crochet

sl-st or Slst: Slip Stitch

ch : Chain

tch: Turnin chain crochet

..in : make increase into same stitch as many as the number which is given in front of “inc” abbreviation (exp; 3inc, 4inc..).

FLO : Crochet into front loops only

BLO : Crochet into back loops only

Plush Crochet Teddy Bear Amigurumi

Body:

1. We start crocheting with 2 tch. We crochet 6 sc in the second loop from the hook (6)

2. inc in every loop (12)

3. ( 1sc, inc) x6 times (18)

4. ( 2sc, inc) x6 times (24)

5. ( 3sc, inc) x6 times (30)

6. ( 4sc, inc) x6 times (36)

7. ( 5sc, inc) x6 times (42)

8-10. 42 sc (3 rows

11. ( 5sc, dec) x6 times (36)

12. 36 sc

13. ( 4sc, dec) x6 times (30)

14. 30sc

15. ( 3sc, dec) x6 times (24)

16. 24 sc

17. 6 dec, 12 sc (18)

18-19. 18 sc

20. ( 4sc, dec) x3 times (15)

Fasten the yarn and cut.

Head:

1. We start crocheting with 2 tch. We crochet 6 sc in the second loop from the hook(6)

2. inc in every loop (12)

3. ( 1sc, inc) x6 times (18)

4. ( 2sc, inc) x6 times (24)

5. ( 3sc, inc) x6 times (30)

6. ( 4sc, inc) x6 times (36)

7. ( 5sc, inc) x6 times (42)

8-12. 42 sc (5 rows

13. ( 5sc, dec) x6 times (36)

14. ( 4sc, dec) x6 times (30)

15. ( 3sc, dec) x6 times (24)

16. ( 2sc, dec) x6 times (18)

17. ( 4sc, dec) x3 times (15)

Fasten the yarn and cut.

Plush Crochet Teddy Bear Amigurumi

Lower legs:

1. Make 6 ch. Starting with the second chain from the hook, 4 sc, 3 sc in the last loop, turn the crocheting to the other side and crochet 3 sc, inc (12)

2. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)

3. 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, ( 1sc, inc) x3 times, 3 sc, ( 1sc, inc) x2 times (24)

4-5. 24 sc

6. 6 sc, 5 dec, 8 sc (19)

7. 5 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc (15)

8. 15 sc

9. ( 3sc, dec) x3 times (12)

10-13. 12 sc

14. 6 dec

Fill as you crochet. Fasten the yarn and cut.

Upper paws:

1. We start crocheting with 2 tch. We crochet 6 sc in the second loop from the hook (6)

2. inc in every loop (12)

3. ( 1sc, inc) x6 times (18)

4. 18 sc

5. 3 sc, 6 dec, 3 sc (12)

6-10. 12 sc

11. 5 sc, dec, 5 sc (11)

12. 11 sc

13. 5 sc, dec, 4 sc (10)

14. 10 sc

15. 5 dec

Fill as you crochet. Fasten the yarn and cut.

Plush Crochet Teddy Bear Amigurumi PDF Free Pattern (5)

Ears (2 pcs):

1. We start crocheting with 2 tch. We crochet 6 sc in the second loop from the hook (6)

2. inc in every loop (12)

3. ( 1sc, inc) x6 times (18)

4-5. 18 sc

6. ( dec, 7 sc) x2 times (16).

Fasten the yarn and cut.

Muzzle

1. Make 6 ch. We start crocheting with the second chain loop from the hook, 4 sc, 3 sc in the last loop, turn crocheting to the other side and crochet 3 sc, inc (12)

2. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)

3. 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, ( 1sc, inc) x3 times, 3 sc, ( 1sc, inc) x2 times (24)

4-5. 24 sc

Yarn fasten and cut.

The post Amigurumi Plush Teddy Bear Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Tools and materials:

Yarn – “Pekhorka” “Children’s voluminous” (200 m by 50 g).

The hook is 2 mm.

Eyes – 8-9 mm.

Decorations + yarn for embroidery.

Holofiber.

Needle, scissors.

Head

1.8 sc.

2.8 inc. = 16 sc.

3. (1sc + inc) * 8 = 24 sc.

4. (2sc + inc) * 8 = 32 sc.

5. (3sc + inc) * 8 = 40 sc.

6. (4sc + inc) * 8 = 48 sc.

7. (5sc + inc) * 8 = 56 sc.

8-18. 56 sc (11 rows).

19. (5sc + dec) * 8 = 48 sc.

20. (4sc + dec) * 8 = 40 sc.

21.40 sc.

22. (3sc + dec) * 8 = 32 sc.

23.32 sc.

24. (2sc + dec) * 8 = 24 sc.

25.24 sc.

Insert eyes between 16 and 17 rows at a distance of 5 visible columns.

Torso

1.6 sc.

2.6 inc. = 12 sc.

3. (1sc + inc) * 6 = 18 sc.

4. (2sc + inc) * 6 = 24 sc.

5. (3sc + inc) * 6 = 30 sc.

6.30 sc.

7. (4sc + inc) * 6 = 36 sc.

8-12. 36 sc (5 rows).

13.5 sc, (dec + 1sc) * 5.16 sc = 31 sc.

14. 5 sc, 5 dec, 16 sc = 26 sc.

15.6 sc, 2 dec, 16 = 24 sc.

16-18. 24 sc (3 rows).

Spout

1.6 air loops.

2.4 sc, 3 sc in one loop, 4 sc.

3.4 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc.

4.4 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc.

5-6. marker thread, 25 sc.

Ear

Amigurumi Stitched Bear Free pattern

1.6 sc.

2.6 inc. = 12 sc.

3. (1sc + inc) * 6 = 18 sc.

4-5. 18 sc.

Tail

Amigurumi Stitched Bear Free pattern

1.6 sc.

2.6 inc. = 12 sc.

3-4. 12 sc.

Leg

Amigurumi Stitched Bear Free pattern

1.6 ch.

2.4 sc., 3 sc in one loop, 4 sc., 2 inc.

3.3 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc.

4.14 sc, 6 inc = 26 sc.

5-7. 26 sc (3 rows).

8.16 sc, 5 dec = 21 sc.

9.15 sc, 3 dec = 18 sc.

10.16 sc, dec = 17 sc.

11.15 sc, dec = 16 sc.

12-13. 16 sc.

14. (2sc + dec) * 4 = 12 sc.

15-16. 12 sc.

17.6 dec = 6 sc.

18.6 sc.

pull off with a needle

A pen

Amigurumi Stitched Bear Free pattern

1.6 sc.

2.6 inc. = 12 sc.

3. (1sc + inc) * 6 = 18 sc.

4-5. 18 sc.

6. (2sc + dec) * 4 + dec = 13 sc.

7-8. 13 sc.

9. (2sc + dec) * 3 + 1 sc = 10 sc.

10-14. 10 sc (5 rows).

15.5 dec = 5 sc. pull off with a needle

Design (it is better to watch the video Part 2.)

Handles-legs – thread fastening.

Sew on the muzzle, embroider the nose. Sew on the ears and tail.

Embroider eyelashes, eyebrows, blush, the inner part of the ear; seams.

Make a forelock, tie a bow. Amigurumi Stitched Bear Free pattern

The post Amigurumi Stitched Bear Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Materials

Yarn

Crochet hook

Embroidery Needle

6mm Safety eyes

Markers

Scissors

Abbreviations

MR – Amigurumi Magic ring

sc : Single Crochet

hsc : Half single crochet

inc : Increase

dec : Decrease

tr : Triple Crochet/ Treble Crochet

st: Stitch

dc : Double Crochet

hdc: Half Double Crochet

sl-st or Slst: Slip Stitch

ch : Chain

tch: Turnin chain crochet

FLO : Crochet into front loops only

BLO : Crochet into back loops only

Head

1- 6 sc in ring

2- inc ( 12)

3- 1 sc, inc (18)

4- 2 sc, inc (24)

5- 3 sc, inc (30)

6- 4sc, inc (36)

7- 5sc, inc (42)

8- 6sc, inc (48)

9- 7sc, inc (54)

10-18- sc in all (54)

Attached safety eyes between Row 14 and 15 with 7 stitches apart

19- 7sc, dec (48)

20- 6sc, dec (42)

21- 5sc, dec (36)

22- 4sc, dec (30)

23- 3sc, dec (24)

Fasten of leaving long tail. Do not sew closed

Arms x2

1- 6 sc in ring

2- inc (12)

3-18- sc in all (12)

Body

1- 6 sc in ring

2- inc (12)

3- 1sc, inc (18)

4- 2sc, inc (24)

5- 3sc, inc (30)

6- 4sc, inc (36)

7- 5sc, inc (42)

8- 6sc, inc (48)

9-14- sc in all (48)

15- 6sc, dec (42)

16-19- sc in all (42)

20- 5sc, dec (36)

21-23- sc in all (36)

24- 4sc, dec (30)

25- 3sc, dec (24)

Fasten of leaving Long tail and sew Body to head.

Legs x2

1- 6 sc in ring

2- inc (12)

3- 1sc, inc (18)

4- 2sc, inc (24)

5- 3sc, inc (30)

6-7- sc in all (30)

8- 7sc, (2sc, dec)*4, 7sc (26)

9-10- sc in all (26)

11- 9sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 8sc (24)

12- sc in all (24)

13- 9sc, (sc, dec)*2, 9sc (22)

14-16- sc in all (22)

17- 8sc, (sc, dec)*2, 8sc (20)

18- 4sc, (sc, dec)*4, 4sc (16)

19-21- sc in all (16)

22- 2sc, (sc, dec)*4, 2 sc (12)

23-25- sc in all (12)

26- 3sc, (sc, dec)*2, 3sc (10)

27-35- sc in all (10)

Leave long tail for sewing

Nose

1- 6 sc in all

2- inc (12)

3- 1sc, inc (18)

4- 2sc, inc (24)

Fasten of leaving Long tail for sewing

Ears x2

1- 6 sc in ring

2- inc (12)

3- 1sc, inc (18)

4- 2sc, inc (24)

5-8- sc in all (24)

Teddy Fufy Bear Amigurumi Crochet PDF Pattern (3)

Patch

1- 4sc in ring

2- (3sc in same st)*4

3- 1sc, 3sc in same st, 2sc, 3sc in same st, 2sc, 3sc in same st, 2sc, 3sc in same st, 1 sc

4- 1sc, 1s1st fasten off leaving long tail

The post Amigurumi Teddy Fufy Bear Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Materials

Yarn

Crochet hook

Scissors

Stitch marker

Abbreviations

sc : Single Crochet

inc : Increase

dec : Decrease

st: Stitch

hdc: Half Double Crochet

sl-st : Slip Stitch

ch : Chain

..in : make increase into same stitch as many as the number which is given in front of “inc” abbreviation (exp; 3inc, 4inc..).

FLO : Crochet into front loops only

BLO : Crochet into back loops only

Head:

1. 6 sc in MR

2. inc*6 (12 st)

3. (1 sc, inc)*6 (18 st)

4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24 st)

5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30 st)

6. (4 sc, inc)*6 (36 st)

7. 36 sc

8. 36 sc

9. (11 sc, inc)*3 (39 st)

10. 39 sc

11. (12 sc, inc)*3 (42 st)

12. 42 sc

Change color to white (for bear- don’t change)

13. 42 sc

14. 42 sc

15. 42 sc

16. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36 st)

17. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30 st)

18. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24 st)

19. (2 sc, dec) *6 (18 st)

20. (4 sc, dec) *3 (15 st)

Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Place the safety eyes between rows 11 and 12 with 8 sc between them.

I used 10 mm safety eyes.

Ears: (dog).

1. 6 sc in MR

2. (1 sc, inc)*3 (9 st)

3. 9 sc

4. 9 sc

5. 9 sc

Fold edges together and crochet two sides together with 4 sc.

Fasten off and cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears: (bear)

1. 6 sc in MR

2. (1 sc, inc)*3 (9 st)

3. (2 sc, inc)*3 (12 st)

Fold edges together and crochet two sides together with 5 sc.

Fasten off and cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle:

1. 6 sc in MR

2. inc*4, 2 sc (10 st)

Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms:

1. 7 sc in MR

2. – 4. 7 sc (4 rows)

Fold the edges together and crochet two sides together with 3 sc.

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs:

1. 6 sc in MR

2. inc*6 (12 st)

3. Back loops only – 12 sc

4. 12 sc

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail:

1. 5 sc in MR

2. inc*5 (10 st)

3. (3 sc, dec)*2 (8 st)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Body:

1. 6 sc in MR

2. inc*6 (12 st)

3. (1 sc, inc)*6 (18 st)

4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24 st)

5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30 st)

6. 30 sc

7. 30 sc

8. 30 sc

9. 30 sc

10. 9 sc, dec*6, 9 sc, (24 st)

Change color to white (for the bear – don’t change the color)

11. (6 sc, dec)*3 (21 st)

12. (5 sc, dec)*3 (18 st)

13. (4 sc, dec)*3 (15 st)

14. 15 sc

15. 15 sc

Fasten off and cut the yarn. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Embroider the nose and the eyebrows with a thin black thread.

Sew the muzzle to the head.

See the ears to the head.

Sew the head to the body.

Sew arms to the body between rows 13 and 14. Sew the legs to the body.

See the tail to the body.

The post Amigurumi Bear and Dog Free pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

MATERIALS USED :

– Yarnart Jeans yarn

– hook number 2

– stitching needle

– pins

– eyes 6 mm

– filler

– thread for embroidering nose, mouth, eyebrows and highlights

The height of the toy with the specified materials is 19-20 cm

SYMBOLS:

CH – air loop

İNC – increase

SC – single crochet

SL-ST – connecting post

BLO – knit for the back half loop

FLO – knit by the front half loop

(…) * n – repeat n times

[…] – number of loops at the end of the row

Head

1) 6 sc into magic ring

2) (1, inc) * 6 [12]

3) 2 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 2sc [16]

4) 3 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc [20]

5) 4 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc [24]

6) 24 sc

7) 8 sc, (inc. From HDC) * 8, 8sc [32]

8p) 8 sc, (1 HDC, inc. From HDC) * 8, 8 sc [40]

9) 14 sc, (inc, 3 sc) * 3, 14 sc [43]

10) 15 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 18 sc [45]

11) 16 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 15 sc [49]

12) 9 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 7 sc. [53]

13-21) 53 sc

21) 7 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) * 5, 4 sc [47]

22) dec, 5 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) * 5, 3 sc [40]

We insert eyes 6 mm, between 6 and 7 rows, at a distance of 7 columns. We begin to fill.

23) (6 sc, dec) * 5 [35]

24) (5 sc, dec) * 5 [30]

25) (4 sc, dec) * 5 [25]

26) (3 sc, dec) * 5 [20]

27) (2 sc, dec) * 5 [15]

28) (1 sc, dec) * 5 [10]

29) dec * 5 [5]

We tighten the hole and hide the end of the thread inside the toy.

We introduce the thread to the lower left point, then to point 1, leave the tail, then to point 2 and back to the lower right.

Ears

1) 6 sc into magic ring

2) (1sc, inc) * 6 [12]

3) (3sc, inc) * 4 [16]

4-5) 16 sc

6) dec, 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, dec [12]

Fold in half and knit 6 sc. Leave the thread for sewing.

Sew on the ears between 16 and 17 rows, at a distance of 12 columns.

Muzzle

We embroider the nose along the perimeter of the spacecraft.

We carry out the tightening in 2 stages.

1. Introduce the thread to the lower left point, then to point 1, leave the tail, then to point 2 and back to the lower right.

2. We take a new thread. We introduce the thread to the lower right point, then to point 3, leave the tail, then to point 4 and back to the lower right. Tie 3 knots on the remaining ends, pulling the muzzle.

We embroider the eyebrows and mouth.

Pens

1) 6 sc into magic ring

2) 6 inc [12]

3) (2 sc, inc) * 4 [16]

4-6) 16 sc

7) dec, 2 sc, (dec, 1 sc) * 2, dec * 3 [10]

8) 10 sc

Color change

9-22) 10 sc (14 rows)

23) 1 sc

Half fill.

Fold in half and knit 5 sc

For the second handle on row 22, knit 7 sc instead of 10.

Legs – Body

1) 6 sc into magic ring

2) inc * 6 [12]

3) (1 sc, inc) * 6 [18]

4) 1 sc, inc, (2sc, inc) * 5, 1sc [24]

5) (3 sc, inc) * 6 [30]

6-7) 30 sc

8) 7 sc, dec * 8, 7 sc [22]

9) 5 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 4, 5 sc [18]

10) 18 sc

11) (4 sc, dec) * 3 [15]

12) (3sc, dec) * 3 [12]

13-17) 12 sc (5 rows)

We knit 2 details.

We knit at the second leg

13-16) 12 sc

17) 6 sc

18) 5 ch, attach to 2 leg, in 2 column from the end, 11sc, 5 sc along ch, 12 sc [34]

19) (4 sc, inc) * 6, 4 sc [40]

20) 15 sc, (1 HDC, inc. From HDC) * 8, 9 sc [48]

21-23) 48 sc (3 rows)

Change color to blouse

24-32) 48sc (9 rows)

33) 13 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) * 3, 6 sc [44]

34) 8 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) * 4, 2 sc [39]

35) 39 sc

We start to fill

36) 4 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec [35]

37) 13 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 5 sc [33]

38) 13 sc, dec, (3 sc, dec) * 3, 3 sc [29]

39) 29 sc

We fill, form a belly

40) dec, (7 sc, dec) * 2, 9 sc [26]

41) (6 sc, dec) * 3, 2x sc [23]

42) 1 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) * 3, 2 sc [19]

43) 19 blo

Change color to brown

44) 19 sc

Leave a long thread for sewing

Knit 19 sc FLO in row 43 (this is the collar)

Sew on the head and handles. Handles between 41 and 42 row.

Scarf

We collect a chain of air loops, choose the quantity yourself. We knit all the time for the back half loop.

The width of the scarf depends on the number of rows.

The bear is ready!

The post Amigurumi Blue Bear Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

Materials and tools

1. FOR THE BERRY BEAR: Gazzal “Baby Cotton” (60% cotton, 40% polyacryle, 165 m/ 50 g) – 50 g of the crimson color (No. 3415), some pink yarn (No. 3411). Matching crochet hook (I used 2 mm). FOR THE PANDA: novelty yarn, I used ―Kuzya Klubochkin‖ by Color City (15% cotton, 85% polyamide, 95 m (104 yards) in 50 g skein) – 150 g of the main color (I used No. 1) and 100 g of the additional color (I used No. 24). Matching crochet hook (I used 3.75 mm). You can use wool, mohair or acrylic yarn. The thicker yarn you use, the bigger toy you will get.

2. “Iris” Vita cotton (100% cotton of a double merserization, 125 m (137 yards) in 20 g skein) some green color for the leaves (No. 2108), pink (No. 2119) or beige (No. 2106) for the nose.

3. Small piece of the white felt for the whites of the eyes; the glass eyes with an eyelet (I used 7 mm in diameter for the berry bear and 10 mm in diameter for the panda).

4. Stuffing.

5. The plastic safety joints or cotter pins and joint disks. FOR THE BERRY BEAR I used the joints 10 mm in diameter for the arms and 22 mm in diameter for the legs and the head.

FOR THE PANDA I used the joints 20 mm in diameter for the arms, 30 mm in diameter for the legs and 40 mm in diameter for the head.

6. Flower button and some pink beads for the decoration of the berry bear.

7. Any material for tinting you like.

Finished size of the berry bear is approx. 15 cm (6 inches) and the panda is approx. 27 cm (10 inches) using the materials stated in the pattern.

Tip (make it right)

When making toys the right side looks like this: And the backside looks like this:

Abbreviations

ch – chain

st – stitch

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

inc – increase (2 sc in 1 st)

dec – decrease (single crochet two stitches together)

dc – double crochet

inc dc – increase 2 dc in the same stitch

hdc – half double crochet

Rnd – round

USA/UK terminology comparison chart

Other differences in crochet terminology used:

Terminology USA Terminology UK

fasten off cast off

skip miss

gauge tension

yarn over (yo) yarn over hook (yoh)

If there is a record in the brackets in the pattern, multiplied by some number, for example

(3 sc, inc) x 3, it means you need to repeat this action 3 times, that is 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc.

Tip (make it right)

If there are no special notes, the toy is crocheted under both parts of the loop. In some rows, there are special notes: ‗into the front loop only‘ or ‗into the back loop only‘. In that case, you need to follow these instructions.

Tip (yarn and wire)

If you use the different yarn, the toy will be bigger or smaller and you will need more or less yarn and wire than stated in the pattern (i.e. thicker yarn will produce a larger toy and you may require more yarn and wire).

If you decide to use thicker yarn you should buy thicker wire as well. The thicker your yarn the taller the toy will be.

Tip (gauge)

When making toys, you should use a much smaller hook than recommended for the yarn you have chosen.

Make sure you crochet tight enough; otherwise, the stuffing will show through the holes.

Tip (shift stitch)

While working, you will need to keep the work symmetrically. As work tends to twist to the right you need to adjust the position of the marker periodically (beginning of the round). If you notice that the marker moves right, you need to work one extra stitch in the end of the round and move the marker for one stitch (now 2nd st of the round becomes 1st). This is a shift stitch – it is not included in the escription of the rounds.

Usually you have to do shift stitches every 3-5 rounds (depending on the yarn, hook and your gauge).

To check if it is time to work a shift stitch fold your work in half and check if marker still goes straight.

Arms (make 2)

Crochet with the crimson yarn (for the panda crochet the arms with the additional color). The

marker goes along the middle of the outer side of the arm.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in the magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc х 6 (12)

Rnd 3: (inc, 3 sc) х 3 (15)

Rnds 4-5 (2 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (15)

Rnd 6: 6 sc, 3 sc together, 6 sc (13)

Rnd 7: 5 sc, 3 sc together, 5 sc (11)

Rnds 8-14 (7 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (11)

If you use the plastic joints as fastenings, then crochet the opening for them in the next round (follow the description). If you use the cotter pins with joint disks as fastenings, the opening is not needed, crochet the sc in the place of the chain in the description.

FOR THE RIGHT ARM:

Rnd 15 (crochet the opening for the joint): 1 sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc, 7 sc (11)

FOR THE LEFT ARM:

Rnd 15 (crochet the opening for the joint): 7 sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc, 1 sc (11)

Crochet further the both arms similarly. Crochet 3 sc under the chain in the next round.

Rnd 16: 1 sc in each st around (11)

Insert the plastic safety joint into the crocheted opening or step 2 rounds down, 2 sc from the marker to the left (for the right arm) or to the right (for the left arm) and insert the cotter pin with the disk (I used the joint 10 mm in diameter).

Choose the diameter of the joint as follows: put the arm in half and choose such disk which occupies all internal space of the arm, at the same time without stretching the cloth. Stuff the arm.

Note: you need to choose the correct diameter of the disk that the arms snugly fit to the body – it must be equal to the width of the arm at the site of attachment. Not fill too much the upper part of the arm, it should be flat – then they will look like an extension of the body, rather than individual details, unrelated to him.

Rnd 17: sc, dec х 5 (6)

Fasten off and cut the yarn, hide the end of the thread. Crochet the second arm similarly.

Legs (make 2)

Start with the pink yarn (for the panda crochet the legs with the additional color). The marker goes

along the middle of the heel.

Rnd 1: ch 5, from the second loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the first loop, along the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (12)

Rnd 2: inc х 2, 2 sc, inc х 4, 2 sc, inc х 2 (20)

Rnd 3: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) х 3, 2 sc (24)

Change the yarn to the crimson, fasten off and cut the pink yarn.

Rnds 4-6 (3 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 7: sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, sc (18)

Rnd 8: 6 sc, dec х 3, 6 sc (15)

Rnds 9-10 (2 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (15)

Rnd 11: 7 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, sc (17)

Rnd 12: sc, inc, 5 sc, inc х 2, 8 sc (20)

Rnd 13: 1 sc in each st around (20)

If you use the plastic joints as fastenings, then crochet the opening for them in the next round

(follow the description). If you use the cotter pins with joint disks as fastenings, the opening is not needed, crochet the sc in the place of the chain in the description.

FOR THE RIGHT LEG:

Rnd 14 (crochet the opening for the joint): 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 14 sc (20)

FOR THE LEFT LEG:

Rnd 14 (crochet the opening for the joint): 14 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 4 sc (20)

Crochet further the both legs similarly. Crochet 2 sc under the chain in the next round.

Rnd 15: 1 sc in each st around (20)

Choose the diameter of the joint as follows: put the leg in half and choose such disk which occupies

all internal space of the leg, at the same time without stretching the cloth. Put the joint aside pro tempore.

Rnd 16: 8 sc, dec х 2, 8 sc (18)

Insert the plastic safety joint into the crocheted opening or step 3 rounds down, 4 sc from the marker to the left (for the right leg) or to the right (for the left leg) and insert the cotter pin with the disk (I used the joint 22 mm in diameter). Stuff the leg.

Rnd 17: dec, 5 sc, dec х 2, 5 sc, dec (14)

Rnd 18: dec х 7 (7)

Fasten off and cut the yarn, hide the end of the thread. Crochet the second leg similarly.

Body

Crochet with the crimson yarn (for the panda start with the main yarn).

Rnd 1: ch 8, from the second loop from the hook: inc, 5 sc, 4 sc in the first loop, along the other side of the chain: 5 sc, inc (18)

Rnd 2: inc х 2, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc х 4, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc х 2 (28)

Crochet 7 sc more and move the marker here. Now the beginning of the round will be here (the middle of the back); align the marker in the course of the crocheting of the body.

Rnd 3: (4 sc, inc) х 2, 8 sc, (inc, 4 sc) х 2 (32)

Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) х 3, 2 sc, (inc, 3 sc) х 3, inc, 2 sc (40)

Rnd 5: 8 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) х 3, 3 sc, inc, 8 sc (46)

If you use the plastic joints as fastenings, then crochet the openings for them in the next round

(follow the description). If you use the cotter pins with joint disks as fastenings, the openings are not needed, crochet the sc in the place of the chain in the description.

Rnd 6 (crochet the openings for the joints): 8 sc, inc, sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, sc, inc, 8 sc (50)

Crochet 2 sc under the chain in the next round.

Rnd 7: 9 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) х 2, 2 sc, (inc, 3 sc) х 2, inc, 5 sc, inc, 9 sc (58)

Rnds 8-12 (5 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (58)

Rnd 13: 9 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 9 sc (54)

Rnd 14: 1 sc in each st around (54)

Rnd 15: 8 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 8 sc (50)

Rnd 16: 1 sc in each st around (50)

Rnd 17: 15 sc, (dec, 4 sc) х 3, dec, 15 sc (46)

Rnd 18: 1 sc in each st around (46)

Insert the plastic safety joints into the crocheted openings and latch the joints or insert the cotter pins of the legs between the 6th and 7th rounds of the body stepping 12 sc from the marker to the left (for the left leg) or to the right (for the right leg) and turn the cotter pins.

Rnd 19: 3 sc, dec, 11 sc, (dec, 2 sc) х 3, dec, 11 sc, dec, 3 sc (40)

If you use the plastic joints as fastenings, then crochet the openings for them in the next round

(follow the description). If you use the cotter pins with joint disks as fastenings, the openings are not needed, crochet the sc in the place of the chain in the description.

For the panda change the yarn to the additional color.

Rnd 20 (crochet the openings for the joints): 8 sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc, 5 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 5 sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc, 8 sc (38)

Crochet 3 sc under the chain in the next round.

Rnd 21: 1 sc in each st around (38)

Rnd 22: 2 sc, dec, 30 sc, dec, 2 sc (36)

Rnd 23: 1 sc in each st around (36)

Rnd 24: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) х 5, 2 sc (30)

Rnd 25: 1 sc in each st around (30)

Insert the plastic safety joints into the crocheted openings and latch the joints or insert the cotter pins of the arms between the 20th and 21st rounds of the body stepping 9 sc from the marker to the left (for the left leg) or to the right (for the right leg) and turn the cotter pins.

Measure the diameter of the fastening for the head by the remained opening in the body (I used the disk 22 mm in diameter).

Stuff the body. You can put a glass granulate into the belly.

Rnd 26: (3 sc, dec) х 6 (24)

Rnd 27: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) х 5, sc (18)

Stuff the body to the end. Insert the joint for the head.

Rnd 28: (sc, dec) х 6 (12)

Rnd 29: dec х 6 (6)

Fasten off and cut the yarn, hide the end of the thread.

Head

Start with the pink yarn (for the panda crochet the head with the main yarn). The marker goes along the middle of the ―chin‖.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in the magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc х 6 (12)

Rnd 3: (inc, sc) х 6 (18)

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) х 6 (24)

Rnds 5-7 (3 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 8: 8 sc, 8 SC INTO THE BACK LOOP ONLY, 8 sc (24)

Change the yarn to the crimson, fasten off and cut the pink yarn.

Rnd 9: 4 sc, inc х 4, 8 sc, inc х 4, 4 sc (32)

Rnd 10: 5 sc, (inc, sc) х 3, inc, 8 sc, inc, (sc, inc) х 3, 5 sc (40)

In the next round make the hold at the bottom part of the face, inserting the hook at the same time

in the front loops which were left in the 8th round and working stitches of the face.

Rnd 11: 16 sc, USING THE FRONT LOOPS WHICH WERE LEFT IN THE 8TH ROUND: INC Х 8, 16 sc (48)

Rnd 12: 1 sc in each st around (48)

Rnd 13: 13 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) х 7, 13 sc (56)

Rnd 14: 1 sc in each st around (56)

Rnd 15: 9 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) х 4, 4 sc, (inc, 3 sc) х 4, inc, 9 sc (66)

If you use the plastic joint as fastening for the head, then crochet the opening for it in the next round (follow the description). If you use the cotter pin with joint disk as fastening, the opening is not needed, crochet the sc in the place of the chain in the description.

Rnd 16 (crochet the opening for the joint): 65 sc, ch 1, skip 1 sc (66)

Rnd 17 (crochet the opening for the joint): ch 1, skip 1 sc, 64 sc, 1 sc under the chain (66)

Rnd 18: 1 sc under the chain, 65 sc (66)

Rnd 19: 15 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) х 7, 15 sc (74)

Rnds 20-27 (8 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (74)

Rnd 28: 15 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) х 7, 15 sc (66)

Rnd 29: 1 sc in each st around (66)

Rnd 30: (9 sc, dec) х 6 (60)

Rnd 31: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) х 5, 4 sc (54)

Rnd 32: (7 sc, dec) х 6 (48)

Rnd 33: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) х 5, 3 sc (42)

Insert the plastic safety joints into the crocheted opening and latch the joint or insert the cotter pin of the body between the 16th and 17th rounds of the head at the line of the marker and turn the cotter pin.

Rnd 34: (5 sc, dec) х 6 (36)

Rnd 35: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) х 5, 2 sc (30)

Stuff the head.

Rnd 36: (3 sc, dec) х 6 (24)

Rnd 37: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) х 5, sc (18)

Stuff the head to the end.

Rnd 38: (sc, dec) х 6 (12)

Rnd 39: dec х 6 (6)

Fasten off, cut the yarn and hide the end.

Ovals under the eyes for the panda (make 2)

Crochet with the additional yarn.

Rnd 1: ch 5, from the second loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the first loop, along the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (12)

Rnd 2: inc х 2, 2 sc, inc х 4, 2 sc, inc х 2 (20)

Fasten off and cut the yarn leaving enough for sewing. Crochet the second oval similarly.

Ears (make 2)

Crochet with the crimson yarn (for the panda crochet the ears with the additional color). In this

detail you can not align the marker.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in the magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc х 6 (12)

Rnd 3: 2 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 2 sc (18)

Rnd 4: 3 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 3 sc (24)

Rnd 5: 4 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, (4 sc, inc) х 2, 4 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 4 sc (30)

Rnds 6-9 (4 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (30)

Fasten off and cut the yarn leaving enough for sewing. Crochet the second ear similarly.

Put the ear so that the double increases will be at the edges of the bends and marker will be at the inner side of the ear.

Little nose for the berry bear

―Iris‖ Vita cotton, the hook 1.25 mm. Crochet with the pink color. In this detail you can not align the marker.

Rnd 1: ch 5, from the second loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 3 sc in the

first loop, along the other side of the chain: 3 sc (10)

Rnd 2: inc х 2, 2 sc, inc х 3, 2 sc, inc (16)

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) х 2, 3 sc, (inc, sc) х 2, inc, 3 sc, inc (22)

Rnds 4-5 (2 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (22)

Fasten off and cut the yarn leaving enough for sewing.

Big nose for the panda

―Iris‖ Vita cotton, the hook 1.25 mm. Crochet with the beige color. In this detail you can not align the marker.

Rnd 1: ch 7, from the second loop from the hook: inc, 4 sc, 3 sc in the first loop, along the other side of the chain: 5 sc (14)

Rnd 2: inc х 2, sc, inc х 2, sc, inc х 3, 4 sc, inc (22)

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) х 2, 7 sc, (inc, sc) х 2, inc, 5 sc, inc (28)

Rnd 4: sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) х 2, 6 sc, inc, sc (34)

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) х 2, 10 sc, (inc, 3 sc) х 2, inc, 6 sc, inc (40)

Rnds 6-7 (2 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (40)

Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec) х 2, 10 sc, (dec, 3 sc) х 2, dec, 6 sc, dec (34)

Fasten off and cut the yarn leaving enough for sewing.

Tail

Crochet with the crimson yarn (for the panda crochet the tail with the main color).

Rnd 1: 6 sc in the magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: inc х 6 (12)

Rnds 3-4 (2 rounds): 1 sc in each st around (12)

Put the detail in half and crochet 5 sc through the both cloths.

Fasten off and cut the yarn leaving enough for sewing.

Decoration

Outline 3 points at the face: the points 1 and 2 are the eyes, they are placed before the first and after the last increases of the 11th round; the point 3 is the mouth, it is placed between the 8th and 9th rounds at the line of the marker.

Insert your needle in the point of the mouth and pull it out in the point of the right eyes. Re-insert

the needle one stitch away and go back to the point of the mouth. Repeat several times, pulling the thread. Pull the point of the left eye to the point of the mouth similarly. Fix the thread; hide the ends of the thread into the head.

Try on the ears to the head and sew them how do you like. Sew the nose to the face, having added a little stuff. For the panda sew the ovals at the places of the eyes. Cut out circles from the white felt in diameter slightly more than the diameter of the eyes and place them under the eyes. Sew the eyes at the same time pulling them to the neck at the back (the arrow at the photo below).

Embroider brows and the line between the cheeks with the brown thread. For the panda I pulled it in this moment. You can slightly tint the bear using any material you like (oil pastel, acrylic or oil paint, etc.).

Sew the tail at the same time pulling the belly button. I do not pull the belly button for the panda.

Leaf (make 4)

―Iris‖ Vita cotton, the hook 1.25 mm. Crochet in rows, going backand-forth.

CROCHET ALL ROUNDS INTO THE BACK LOOP ONLY!

Rnd 1: ch 11, from the second loop from the hook: 9 sc, (sc, ch 3,

sc) in the first loop, along the other side of the chain: 7 sc

Rnd 2: ch 1, turn, 8 sc, under the chain: (sc, ch 3, sc), 8 sc

Rnd 3: ch 1, turn, 9 sc, under the chain: (sc, ch 3, sc), 7 sc

Rnd 4: ch 1, turn, 8 sc, under the chain: (sc, ch 3, sc), 8 sc

Rnd 5: ch 1, turn, 9 sc, under the chain: (sc, ch 3, sc), 7 sc

Rnd 6: ch 1, turn, 8 sc, under the chain: (sc, ch 3, sc), 8 sc

Rnd 7: ch 1, turn, 9 sc, under the chain: (sc, ch 3, sc), 7 sc

Rnd 8: ch 1, turn, 8 sc, under the chain: (sc, ch, sc), 8 sc

Fasten off and cut the yarn leaving enough for sewing. Crochet 3 leaves more similarly. Sew them to each other along one of the sides, having left 2 sides from two leaves free.

Decorate the composition with the button.

Sew the beads around the berry bear (I do not sewed the beads to the arms, face and ears). Sew the leaves composition to one of the bear`s ears.

The post Amigurumi Berry Bear Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.

YarnArt Jeans yarn (less than a skein)

Some white yarn for the face

A little yarn for the blouse (it is better to use a little thinner than the main one)

Eyes 7mm on a secure mount

Filler

Hook #2

The size of the toy is about 17cm

You can use any yarn.

Abbrevations:

Mr – amigurumi ring

Sc – single crochet

Dec – decrease

İnc – increase

* – number of repetitions

() – number of sc in a row

Head:

1) 6 sc in Mr

2) 6 inc (12sc)

3) (1 sc, inc) *6 (18 sc)

4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) *5, 1 sc (24 sc)

5) (3 sc, inc) *6 (30 sc)

6) 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) *5, 2 sc (36 sc)

7) (5 sc, inc) *6 (42 sc)

8) 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) *5, 3 sc (48 sc)

9-16) 48 sc (8 rows)

17) 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) *5, 3 sc (42 sc)

18) (5 sc, dec) *6 (36 sc)

19) 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) *5, 2 sc (30 sc)

20) (3 sc, dec) *6 (24 sc)

21) 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) *5, 1 sc (18 sc)

Fill. Leave the thread for sewing.

Eyes at the level of 12-13 rows, 9 sc between the eyes (you can arrange as you like).

Muzzle:

white thread

1) 6 sc in Mr

2) 6 inc (12 sc)

3) (1 sc, inc) *6 (18 sc)

4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) *5, 1 sc (24 sc)

5) 24 sc

Leave the thread for sewing.

Ears:

1) 6 sc in Mr

2) 6 inc (12 sc)

3) (1 sc, inc) *6 (18 sc)

4) 18 sc

Leave the thread for sewing.

Lower paws:

1) 6 sc in Mr

2) 6 inc (12 sc)

3) (1 sc, inc) *6 (18 sc)

4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) *5, 1 sc (24 sc)

5-7) 24 sc

8) 6 sc, 6 dec, 6 sc (18 sc)

9) 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc (14 sc)

10-18) 14 sc

Knit another 1sc, so that when folding, the sock looks straight ahead. Fill only the bottom part of the part.

Fold and knit 7 sc. Cut the thread, fasten.

If you are sewing on details, leave the thread for sewing.

Upper paws:

1) 6 sc in Mr

2) 6 inc (12 sc)

3-5) 12 sc

6) dec, 10 sc (11 sc)

7) 11 sc

8) dec, 9 sc (10 sc)

9-16) 10 sc

Fill only the bottom part of the part. Fold and knit 5 sc. Cut the thread, fasten.

If you are sewing on details, leave the thread for sewing.

Body:

1) 6 sc in Mr

2) 6 inc (12 sc)

3) (1 sc, inc) *6 (18 sc)

4) 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) *5, 1 sc (24 sc)

5) (3 sc, inc) *6 (30 sc)

6) 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) *5, 2 sc (36 sc)

7) (5 sc, inc) *6 (42 sc)

8) In this row, work the lower paws 8 sc, 7 sc with a paw, 12 sc, 7 with a paw, 8 sc (42 sc)

9) We knit the tail.

In the first loop, knit 6 columns with a crochet with one top, then to the end of the row 41 sc.

If you don’t know how, don’t understand, or just don’t like it, then the tail can be tied in a separate part like this

1) 6 sc in Mr

2) 6 inc (12 sc)

3) 12 sc

Leave the thread for sewing.

10) 42 sc

11) (5 sc, dec) *6 (36 sc)

12) 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) *5, 2 sc (30 sc)

13-15) 30 sc

16) (3 sc, dec) *6 (24 sc)

17-18) 24 sc

19) Work upper paws 5 sc, 5 sc with paw, 7 sc, 5 sc with paw, 2 sc (24 sc)

These figures may differ for you, check that the paws are exactly on the sides.

20) 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) *5, 1 sc (18 sc)

Stuff the body, fasten the thread, cut off.

Sew on the head.

We sew a muzzle, embroider a nose, or use a ready-made spout.

We make eyes, eyebrows.

Sew ears between 4-5 and 11-12 rows.

Blouse:

For her, you need to take a thinner yarn, or a smaller hook. We knit in turning rows, each row starting from 1 ch of rise.

Dial a chain of 30ch + 1ch lift. When tying on, leave a long end of the thread so that at the end of work you can make a buttonhole from it.

1) From the second loop from the hook: 4sc, inc from 3 sc, 5sc, inc from 3 sc, 8sc, inc from 3 sc, 5sc, inc from 3 sc, 4sc (38sc)

2) 38sc

3) 5 sc, inc of 3 sc, 7sc, inc of 3 sc, 10sc, inc of 3 sc, 7sc, inc of 3 sc, 5sc (46sc) 4 row: 7sc, 6ch, 9 loops Skip the previous row, continue knitting in the next loop, 14sc, 6ch, 9 loops of the previous row skip, continue knitting in the next loop, 7sc (40sc)

5-6) 40sc

Fasten the thread, cut. Sew a button. From the thread that was left at the beginning of knitting, make a loop using ch. I have it 8ch. You may have more or less, depending on the button you choose. Attach a row below, fasten the thread, cut off.

The post Amigurumi Bear in Blouse Free Pattern appeared first on Amigurumi Patterns.